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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-05-2004, 07:57 AM   #8206
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Purple and Greys for sure.
If you are running the kit greens with out truing them down I would guess that the ride hight is off so get the tires down to 1.75 front and 1.85 for the rear(just a place to start) and set the ride hight at about 3.5mm front and 4mm rear. Aslo If the kit is set up box stock the front springs are to soft try a set of .22 that should get you close.
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:57 AM   #8207
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Be sure to turn your dual rates down a ton too. Full steering lock is WAY too much for a 1/12 car. I run just a bit more than I need to get through the tightest corner on the track...usually 40-60% depending on traction.
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:30 AM   #8208
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Hi all

Is there a particular site that has some information on how to setup the pan car? The Associated manual says nothing about the Damper spring and how to adjust it.

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:01 PM   #8209
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If you mean the spring on the rear shock a good place to start is st it so the bottom of the chassis and the bottom of the rear pod are on the same plane.

Like this: _ _

If you mean the springs for the damper plates...you dont do anything to them. To adjust sis to side damping you use vaious types of silicone goo. Diff lube is great for asphalt. Keep in mind that you need a lot less damping than you might think you need....even on carpet.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:22 PM   #8210
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Thanks, I just set the car per Mike Blackstocks setup and take it from there. This sure a different setup style than a TC!
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:34 PM   #8211
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
If you mean the spring on the rear shock a good place to start is st it so the bottom of the chassis and the bottom of the rear pod are on the same plane.

Like this: _ _

If you mean the springs for the damper plates...you dont do anything to them. To adjust sis to side damping you use vaious types of silicone goo. Diff lube is great for asphalt. Keep in mind that you need a lot less damping than you might think you need....even on carpet.
The setup I use for pan cars is to have the bottom pod plate slightly drooping. Not on the same plane as the chassis. This is done because when the car accelerates, the pinion gear wants to climb the spur gear a common event on gear driven cars. (Thatís why you see drag cars pulling the front wheels off the ground or top fuel cars bowing the chassis in the lights) If there is not some adjustment to allow for this to happen, then you can unload the front wheels causing the car to dart because the caster changes on the front suspension. You can achieve the rear pod droop by one of two ways. You can lengthen the overall length of the shock or you can put a shim(s) between the front pivot ball on the T bar and the chassis plate. Which ever method you use, when the car is setting on the ground, the motor pod and the chassis plate should be on the same plane. To make that happen, turn the spring adjustment on the shock down until the chassis and the bottom pod plate are level when the car is at a static state.

While we are on the subject of chassis plane, I have found that the car is much more stable if the front of the chassis is slightly higher than the rear of the chassis when measured on a level surface.

You can change the dampener plate springs to a stiffer or softer spring. This will modify the side to side dampening as well as using different types of lubes or grease on the plates although, finding these springs can be a challenge as they are none specifically made for this adjustment. You can also change the top plate on the motor pod to a CRC top plate or a Speedmerchant top plate and use dampener tubes instead of the dampener plates.
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Old 08-05-2004, 10:45 PM   #8212
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Default Speedmerchant rev4

I am thinking about getting a speedmerchant Rev4. Do you have to tape in the batteries or can you use a O ring?
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:56 PM   #8213
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Default Re: Speedmerchant rev4

Quote:
Originally posted by novak
I am thinking about getting a speedmerchant Rev4. Do you have to tape in the batteries or can you use a O ring?
You have to tape

I have a Rev3 and Rev4 for sale to
The Rev4 chassi have never be used

Alf
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Old 08-07-2004, 11:53 AM   #8214
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any of you guys use reciever batteries i just saw a bunch of them for sale on ebay and have seen them in pics?

-dUb-
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:30 PM   #8215
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Rx batts are only really needed in Mod.
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:30 PM   #8216
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Does Schumacher make a 12th?
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:49 PM   #8217
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schumacher made some of the first 1/12 cars back in the eighties, but as far as i'm aware they havn't made one since.
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Old 08-09-2004, 05:39 PM   #8218
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Yup, Schumacher hasn't made a 1/12th in over 20 years.

Our Factory drivers run whatever they want in 1/12. Paul Wynn runs a RC12L3 due to his long history with AE and Reedy. Only Masami has been sponsored by Reedy longer than PW! Andrew Cartwright and myself run Hyperdrive Pro 12's . Mike McMahon is a long time CRC driver and runs a T-Fource 12.
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:30 AM   #8219
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Default C12

anyone know of a place that stocks the C12 cefx and sells them reletively cheap?

any links would be great

thanks
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Old 08-10-2004, 08:03 AM   #8220
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CEFX C12 and Cheap donít' go together in the same sentence.
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