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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-30-2004, 03:58 PM   #8176
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The Florida State Series runs a 19T 4 cell class for 1/12th. We have gotten the Reedy 19 Quad to run really well in our sedans and I wanted to try it in my 1/12.

In a sedan we gear a Trinity C2 19T at ~6.8:1 final and the Reedy runs best at 5.72:1. With a C2 in my 1/12 I run a 96/31. Do you guys have any idea how to gear a Reedy Quad 19 for a 1/12?
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Old 07-30-2004, 04:06 PM   #8177
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Default 19 t in 1/12th

AdrianM

this comming season in the UK we are running 19T Stock one day and Mod the next,some of us have been practicing and the different types of 19t motors have been from 47mm per rev to 54mm (sorry not sure of rollout in inches).
Bear in mind this is indoors on carpet,the difference in lap times between mod and stock have been minimal.
Hope this is of some use to you.

Alan
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Old 07-30-2004, 04:53 PM   #8178
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Default Re: 19 t in 1/12th

Quote:
Originally posted by a.curry64
AdrianM

19t motors have been from 47mm per rev to 54mm (sorry not sure of rollout in inches).
Bear in mind this is indoors on carpet,the difference in lap times between mod and stock have been minimal.
Hope this is of some use to you.

Alan
Looks like 47mm would be 1.85". Wow, I can't get away with any thing over 1.65 or 1.7" with the Reedy 19 Quad. Motor gets to warm. This is on a 100'x40' indoor carpet.

take care
john
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Old 07-30-2004, 05:06 PM   #8179
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if the Reedy Quad is running too hot (but you are making run time), don't change your gearing but instead 'narrow' the brushes (reduce the wrap or whatever your term is) by taking a little off of both sides of both brushes.
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Old 07-30-2004, 06:37 PM   #8180
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I haven't tried narrow brushes on the 19 Quad. Just haven't ran it that much. It just got faster the lower I geared.

Where do you gear stock motors for 12th scale? I've never ran stock but hopefully will get to go to a big races this winter and would like to play with running a stock motor.

take care
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Old 07-30-2004, 06:48 PM   #8181
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The quads do run really hot but it dosent seem to bother them. You really do have to gear them to the moon.
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Old 07-31-2004, 06:44 AM   #8182
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try chamfering the leading edge of the brushes this is what some drivers have dove in the UK

Alan
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Old 08-01-2004, 04:04 PM   #8183
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
The quads do run really hot but it dosent seem to bother them. You really do have to gear them to the moon.
I tried again in practice yesterday, or actually had my son run it. Geared like I said before around 1.65 it ran at 125* with consistant lap times around 10.7-11.0. With a 1.8 rollout it ran at 155* with times around 10.9 - 11.3. I think I'll stay with the lower gearing.

take care
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:28 PM   #8184
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The report of 2004 Paved Nationals has uploaded to the Hara's page.

<The page translated into English using translation service>
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...oom/report.htm
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:25 PM   #8185
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John B - What spur, pinion and tires diameter did you use. If I understand the roll outs you are still WAY under geared. I run a 96/31 with 1.88" rear tires with a Chameleon 2.
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:24 PM   #8186
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Yes sir, looks like your right to me. My tires were 1.95", 100 / 27. After the post of 1.85" here I was thinking that too. Maybe it's just that motor, maybe it's my heavy throttle finger, I don't know.

Everyone is a little different on the throttle. That's kinda the danger with posting gear ratio's on the net. I usually run a tooth or two lower than what the pro's have on their setup sheets and will always start two teeth lower than any car instruction book says. I've seen to many beginners fry motors because someone said they should run a certain gear.
Just my $.02

Now where do you run your stock motors at? I'd really like to go to Cleveland this year and my son will run 12th scale stock if we do. We've never ran 12th scale stock here.

take care
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Old 08-03-2004, 12:54 AM   #8187
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Hello,
I have been away for a couple of days.
I will probably go with the Associated since It is rather difficult to locate the Corally on the web and I do like the blue RC12L4!
Thanks a lot for your help guys.
Enjoy racing.
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:46 AM   #8188
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You wont regret it...that car will work everywhere.

I gear Paradox handouts 100/34 with a 1.88 tire. Drop 2-3 teeth of you are using a Monster Stock Handout. I think I ran a 100/32 at the Snowbirds with the Monster Handout.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:00 AM   #8189
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Adrian - I think John B is using a 4 magnet type 19 turn motor. That being the case, he will not be able to pull the gears that your Chameleon does. He may be close to the right gearing for that motor. This is a characteristic of 4 magnet motors when compared to the 2 magnet motors.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:59 AM   #8190
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adrian coniseour of fine 12 scale racing.
bring your a$$ to the sate races and run with us!
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