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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-28-2004, 10:18 AM   #8161
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Default 12L3 chassis trim for 3300 cells

Can anyone post some pics or suggestions on how to dremel out the cell areas of the 12L3 to accomodate the larger 3300 mAH cells?

Thanks
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:25 PM   #8162
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guys here is a collection of old 12scales some jap site!

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...fichiranep.htm


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Last edited by speedxl; 07-28-2004 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:32 PM   #8163
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I thought you guys would appreciate some history!
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:34 PM   #8164
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I love the pic of the majic carpet ride. That was my 2nd 1/12 and I loved it. I still say that the Trinity front end is the best yet. Just a shame that the rest of the car sucks.
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:34 PM   #8165
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
I thought you guys would appreciate some history!
Definitely! I owned an AYK 1/12 and an AYK buggy when I was a kid! That's like fricking 18 years ago!

Dom
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:16 PM   #8166
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glad you guys liked!

I'll keep looking for cool stuff.



Adam give me a call when you have a chance!
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:21 PM   #8167
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Hector-- I just finished a 4 hour marathon of ESPN NFL 2K5 on xbox live and this game rocks.

Just give me a call when you go to lunch tomorrow.
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:23 PM   #8168
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alright! talk to you tomorrow
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Old 07-30-2004, 04:18 AM   #8169
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Default 1/12

Hello everybody, I am looking forward to buy a 1/12th class car. I am currently racing a 1/10 touring and 1/8 On road.
1) I would like to ask whether you believe that the Associated RC12L4 Factory kit is better than the Corally SP12M with tube damper.
2) What do you consider when buying a servo for the 1/12th? In other words does the servo have to be fast or does it require more torque?
Please consider that I will be racing on asphalt, 4 cells 10-12 turn motor.
Thanks a lot for your help
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Old 07-30-2004, 04:42 AM   #8170
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as someone who owns neither of those cars, but because you are talking about racing on asphalt, I would strongly recommend the Corally. You will find it handles much better than the Associated.

As for servos, the JR and KOPropo are good as are some others (but do not get the Airtronics).
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Old 07-30-2004, 10:30 AM   #8171
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I realize I didn't correctly answer your servo question

With 1/12th you definitely don't need torque and really don't need speed, you most need:

- small size/weight
- reliable

Thus, the suggested manufacturers of JR or KOPropo (or Multiplex also) from my prior post.
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Old 07-30-2004, 10:56 AM   #8172
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Alsanico-
Any of the currently available 1/12th cars are capable of good performance, although most cars are now designed for use on carpet.
I had a chance to see both of the cars you are considering run at the recent ROAR on road nats in Portland. One of the best looking cars on the track was the 12L4 of Mike Blackstock. It appeared very smooth on the bumpy track (smoother than most). According to him, the car was stock with no special chassis. I know that Kevin Jelich, who ran competetively with a Corally, did some mocifications to his car to get it soft enough.
Both are good cars, AE has good parts support here in the US. You should consider what the support is like where you are when making your decision.
O'D
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Old 07-30-2004, 11:13 AM   #8173
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The Associated RC12L, L3, L4 (and all their mods/copies) have always been excellent asphalt cars. The Yokomo car Masami used to win the Worlds in 2002 was basically a Yokomo chassis on a RC12L3.

1/12th is a class where simpler is ALWAYS better. and the 12L series cars are as simple as they get.

If you get any of the following cars you cant go wrong, they are all pretty much the same.

Associated RC12L4
Hyperdrive Pro 12
Quad 12
IRS Rug Rat 12
CRC T-Fource 12
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Old 07-30-2004, 03:17 PM   #8174
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Do you guys true front tires flat? I noticed on my 12l4 that I was wearing the outside faster than inside, but I can't pull the top really any more in because the top arm and link are together. Does that make sense?

I was wondering if I might put like a 1 degree angle to make the outside slightly taller to make up for wear.
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Old 07-30-2004, 03:38 PM   #8175
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Do you guys true front tires flat? I noticed on my 12l4 that I was wearing the outside faster than inside, but I can't pull the top really any more in because the top arm and link are together. Does that make sense?

I was wondering if I might put like a 1 degree angle to make the outside slightly taller to make up for wear.
I true my front tires flat. If you need to run more camber so that your tires will wear flat you can take the front end apart and shave the top arm and ball end. This will give you more room to shorten the link more and get more camber.

-James
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