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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-02-2004, 05:21 PM   #8101
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
That is just it. There are a number of all the cars. I am just tring to get the pros and cons of the cars.
here it goes:

if you never had one get the new 12L4, parts are everywhere. you can use 12L3 parts if you get in a bind. once you run it for awhile then you can convert it to a Quad-12, or add a CRC Unitune conv kit, or more exotic..... a Hara conv kit. if you want to try something else

Yokomo YRX12 is basically a AE RC12L3 with better parts and designed for 4-cells only. the chassis is rather soft, but this seems to make it nice for asphalt. it also accepts the same conversion kits as the AE cars

Speedmerchant Rev. 4 and CRC C2 Carpet Knife.... no t-bar cars, 80% of the parts on these are AE or compatible. these cars are killer on Carpet for racing stock classes

Trinity R-12, parts again seem to be an issue. other than that.....just another t-bar car with a design emphasis on getting a lower CG. everyone who has had a Trinity12th complains about setting up the frontend adjustments

Corally, parts are mostly available online, so you better keep WWW.Stormerhobbies.com or whoever on your internet favorites list. other than that it's like running an exotic touring car, you end up becoming your own hobby shop

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 07-02-2004 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:21 PM   #8102
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There are L4's
Yokomo's
Carpet Knife's
Speed Merchants
Trinity Reflex

All of these cars are represented at my local track. Also we are running on carpet.

http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:27 PM   #8103
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how is the part situation there for the Reflex 12?
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:38 PM   #8104
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The shop has parts for all of them.
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:42 PM   #8105
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Default U must have some idea?

so how long have you been going to that shop and checking the 12th racing scene out?

what have they recommended?
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:45 PM   #8106
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None of the guys at the shop race. Everyone I have talked to recommmends the car they are driving. I have been running sedan since we put the carpet in, mod and stock and I am looking at something different. I like the 12th scale becasue it looks like a fun class to run. I have been leaning towards the Trinity, but the CRC is also in the top runnings for a car to buy.
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Old 07-02-2004, 10:26 PM   #8107
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Default 12L3 rear axle problem

Hi all

I am having a problem installing the rear axle into the rear pod. When I attach the left wheel hub it causes binding with the flanged bearing. I can back the hub off a 1/16 and its fine. How tight does this need to be?

Thanks
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:00 PM   #8108
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Hi all,

I think I fixed the first problem but now I am having as problem getting the diff adjusted. Its seems that the aluminum hubs that sandwich the rings and balls cannot come together enough causing the spur gear to wobble. I tried a different spur with the same result.

I am not sure but it almost seems like the 4553 wheel hub is hitting the axles hub and therefore leaving too much of a gap between the spur.

I had this problem on the TC3 in which I used bearings and they were too thick thus causing the same problem.

There doesn't seem to be anything that could do this except for the hubs themselves or a too thin spur gear
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:15 PM   #8109
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Hey guys, just thought Id let you know that entries for the US Pan Car Championships will open up July 31. If you need a copy of the flyer just send an email to bjwilliams@liberty.edu. I will email it to you so you can print out copies and get it to pan car racers at your track (10th and 12th scale)
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:21 AM   #8110
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rinkrat--- Your spur gear should wobble a little. Thats how you know that the rings are ridding on teh diff balls and not the spur gear.
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:53 AM   #8111
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JJ187RC- I have the trinity reflex 12, and i have noticed that everyone is talking about the lower-rear pod breaking. I personally have not broken one yet... I have broken a T-Plate right in half once but that wasnt a biggy. And yes the front end can be alittle confusing. I have to sit here for 1hr 30 minutes just trying to get the front end neutral. But the car runs awesome and other than the front end and rear pod your fine.

I also have the CRC, i think it is a great car for carpet. I havent had any problems with this car and it is just great.

But IMO, i like the reflex.

-JD
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Old 07-05-2004, 10:53 AM   #8112
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Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I think I fixed the first problem but now I am having as problem getting the diff adjusted. Its seems that the aluminum hubs that sandwich the rings and balls cannot come together enough causing the spur gear to wobble. I tried a different spur with the same result.

I am not sure but it almost seems like the 4553 wheel hub is hitting the axles hub and therefore leaving too much of a gap between the spur.

I had this problem on the TC3 in which I used bearings and they were too thick thus causing the same problem.

There doesn't seem to be anything that could do this except for the hubs themselves or a too thin spur gear
Make sure you are using 1/8th inch diff balls. If you use anything smaller you run the risk of the wheel hub coming in contact with the shoulder the spur gear spins on making it bind when you tighten the diff nut.
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:54 AM   #8113
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
hey E

i was talking about/responding to the L4 post.

anyway HT is having a three day race series this weekend, will you be able to make it out this Sat?

your 12th hasn't gotten any scratches on the bottom

later
Nope... I hought that I was going to but too many honey do's, plus we're going to Phx. for the 4th.

Hopefully this weekend 7-10.

E
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Old 07-06-2004, 02:30 PM   #8114
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Default 1/12th at HT

E

we had 8 in 12th stock this past Sat, there were 3 others who had them but decided not to race them.

later
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:00 PM   #8115
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okay please tell me i am not seeing things

are the carpet knife and the L3 front ends identical????
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