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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-29-2004, 04:04 PM   #8071
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hey Crashby, it's the track we'll be racing on Friday night.

(Dusty in disguise)

Thanks for the tips, I wanted something that will be fairly close when I get there. I'll be running pinks and Purples. I have .020 springs in the front, I was going to start with front toe parallel and just a little neg camber.

I think I have the .063 T-bar, I'll have to Ask enzo what he gave me. I'll change my center shock oil before Friday, piece of cake. I only have heavy hydra fluid damper oil, what do you use? Did anyone try changing the plates for tubes? Those plates are a pain in the butt.

Thanks dude.
I agree with you. I don't use the plates. They are too primitive. I modified the tubes from CRC (shortened the treaded ball cup) and put them on my 1/12th car and it works great. Well... maybe too good as I am having trouble getting enough steering!! I am switching to .018 springs in front along with pink rubber. That should get my steering back. I also use the top plate from the CRC car as well. The holes are already in it for the tubes and they line up perfectly with the cross brace at the back of the chassis. The CRC top plate also allows for a little more shock length which means you don't have to cut down the ball cups very much.
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Old 06-29-2004, 05:11 PM   #8072
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Speedxl--I got everything taken care of for the Champs in November. Just let me know if your coming up or not. We'll be rooming next to one of my pit bit**es that was in NC with me. You might have met him too. And in case we have a bad weekend I'm sure that is room will have a lot of libations on hand.
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Old 06-29-2004, 05:37 PM   #8073
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These were my last post questions, and i still need them anwsered:

I am running a Trinity Reflex 12 in stock class. My question is which pinion gear is decent for a P2k2 motor for 5 minute heats?

Also i am not getting enough turning on my reflex. When i go all the way right or left, the servo horn hits the 2 turnbuckles on each side. Is this normal?

Also on the servo horn, which 2 holes should i put it at. There are 8 holes on my servo horn. I am using the 2 top ones. I was thinking about going to the bottom, but wasnt sure.

Which spring should i use the silver, or copper one. I am using the silver one right now and i am liking the way it feels, should i say with it?

-Jon
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Old 06-29-2004, 07:25 PM   #8074
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
These were my last post questions, and i still need them anwsered:

I am running a Trinity Reflex 12 in stock class. My question is which pinion gear is decent for a P2k2 motor for 5 minute heats?

Also i am not getting enough turning on my reflex. When i go all the way right or left, the servo horn hits the 2 turnbuckles on each side. Is this normal?

Also on the servo horn, which 2 holes should i put it at. There are 8 holes on my servo horn. I am using the 2 top ones. I was thinking about going to the bottom, but wasnt sure.

Which spring should i use the silver, or copper one. I am using the silver one right now and i am liking the way it feels, should i say with it?

-Jon
I will attempt to answer some of your questions but you have not provided enough information so I will have to use some assumptions.

If you are using 3300 cells and only running 5 minute races, then run time is not an issue. You need to gear the motor to go as fast as you can without cooking the com or the brushes. Without knowing what your rear tire diameter is, I would start at 98 spur/20 pinion. You just need to be very careful about getting the motor too hot.

As for your steering issues, no! It's not a good thing when your sevo saver is hitting the turnbuckles. There should never be any binding of the steering mechanisms in any way. Try moving the ball ends to the middle outer holes on your servo saver. That would be the holes at the outer part of the servo saver with empty holes above and below. This should eliminate the contact with the turnbuckles. Next adjust your left and right ATL on your transmitter so that you get maximum throw but without the steering going into a bind condition. You can tell if the steering is binding by either the wheels stop spinning at full throw left and or right or that the chassis flexes at full throw left and or right. After fixing the mechanical bind and setting your ATL you will now have maximum steering. If you still do not have enough steering, then you have to stiffen up the rear of the car or soften up the front of the car. Either will give you more steering. I like to get my car set up so that I have my steering turned down to about 45 to 50 percent and can fully negotiate the entire course at speed and still be able to do a 360 within the confines of the track. Oh yeah. Donít forget to check the tweak in the chassis.
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Old 06-29-2004, 08:01 PM   #8075
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Hi Crash,

I actually made some new damper tubes for my rev3/4. I used carbon fibre for the tube and titanium for the rod, works very well, maybe too well. I may see if I can ring something up to work in the L3.
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:17 PM   #8076
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hi Crash,

I actually made some new damper tubes for my rev3/4. I used carbon fibre for the tube and titanium for the rod, works very well, maybe too well. I may see if I can ring something up to work in the L3.
See if you can get something together and come out and race with us in Ripon of Friday night. It would be great to race with you!! RTB said he was coming out. We could end up with six or seven entries!
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:14 AM   #8077
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Speedxl--I got everything taken care of for the Champs in November. Just let me know if your coming up or not. We'll be rooming next to one of my pit bit**es that was in NC with me. You might have met him too. And in case we have a bad weekend I'm sure that is room will have a lot of libations on hand.
Hey Adam , I thought he was my pit b***h ....... lol , you can pick up the body thursday if you are in the hood .
Bob
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:21 AM   #8078
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I'll be there Crash, don't know how well, it's going to go but I'll be there. The car is just about as far as I can get it without running it on the track. I'll see you Friday.
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Old 07-01-2004, 09:40 AM   #8079
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I'll get some ice and cups we'll be dialed.
adam yes even if I dont race I'll be upthere and be pit bitch if need be!

Oah the room for the snow birds will be set for the race!
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:37 PM   #8080
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What do the tweak screws on the Reflex 12 actually do? and low should they be in?
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:48 PM   #8081
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they make you slower!

just kidding they allow you to adjust static whieght between the left side and the right side so the car is balanced left to right with equal wieght distribution across both sides of the car.
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:10 PM   #8082
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So if there is alittle more weight on the left side of my car, should I lower the tweak screw on the right side? Raise the Right? Lower Left? Raise Left?

Sorry alittle new to 1/12th but I like them alot.

-Jon
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:32 PM   #8083
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JD-
Assuming that the Reflex 12 is like other t bar cars with a screw on each side of the t bar at the front: You are correct, lower (screw in) the screw on the light side. You should have both screws barely touching the chassis so that when you screw in one side you un-screw the other side the same amount. This is called "setting the tweak".
You can do this on a good tweak board with bubble level or weight scales. Many of us still use the "coin drop" method:
Place a coin on top of each front tire, set slightly to the rear. Use an xacto knife to pick up the chassis at a point exactly in the center of the front. As you pick up the chassis slowly, one of the tires will start to roll and the coin will fall off. This is the light side, and you will screw in the tweak screw on this side, loosen on the other. Turn the screws only a fraction of a turn at a time. When you get it right the coins will fall at the same time. The drawback to this method is that slop in the suspension can make the reading innaccurate, but generally it works quite well.
Confusing enough? Just try it and you should get the drift...
O'D
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:46 PM   #8084
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Look at this guy... "OD"... he actually thinks he knows something Get ready for some racing tommarrow old man
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Old 07-01-2004, 08:12 PM   #8085
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Yes the Reflex 12 has tweak screws on boths sides.

And thanks OD for the method i will try it. It sounds alittle confusing but i think i can get it.

-JD
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