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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-29-2004, 09:54 AM   #8056
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yes like john said make sure u round the chassis like it says but wear a mask and do it like outside or wet it-the dust is harmful if u breathe it.

my front end is all snug as well
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:25 AM   #8057
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Default Re: 12L3 assembly

Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

Does anyone have any hints on assembling the 12L3 front suspension?

From the picture, it looks like use (top to bottom) e-clip, 3 kingpin shims, upper suspension arm, 1 shim, steering block, lower arm, spring then e-clip.

Should the kingpin move as free as a 1/10 TC car or should I leave it snug? I normally open the kingpin hole with a 1/8" drillbit just enough to allow smooth free play, but is that too much.

Is it important to use the elctrical tape around the battery cells on the chassis?

Any other kit hints?

Thanks
Assemble the front suspension just as the instructions say. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE KING PIN HOLE ON THE SPINDLE!! That should be a tight fit allowing the king pin and the spindle to turn and move up and down inside of the upper and lower pivot balls. Polish the king pins with any fine grit metal polish to a chrome like finish. You can also replace the upper and lower plastic pivot balls with some bronze bushings from Niftech. Use a good lubricant like Glidex II on the bronze bushings. IRS also makes a replacement king pin that has a slotted screw head on the top and a small aluminum 4-40 lock nut on the bottom. This modification eliminates the need for e-clips. Lundsford makes a titanium spindle with a 4-40 nut to hold on the front wheels instead of using e-clips. I also use the cross brace from the Yokomo YRX12 between the caster block uprights to make the front springs work to their optimum.

As far as using electrical tape on the batteries, if you bevel the edges of the chassis slots that should prevent the chassis from cutting the heat shrink on the batteries. I put an extra heat shrink on the batteries every time I assemble a new pack which also helps.

Good Luck!!
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:27 AM   #8058
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If i upgrade my spur gear on my reflex from a 96t to a 104t, what will that give me? Is it a good change or should i stay witht the 96t?

-Jon
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Old 06-29-2004, 11:38 AM   #8059
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Oh yeah...stupid little thing I found last night but it works

Lunsford makes titanium ball ends for the Mini-T. The ball ends just happen to be 2-56 ball ends. The threads are a bit larger than the Stock ball ends on my CRC Carpet Knife 3.2 but once the hole is enlarged a bit, they work wonderful. This replaces the steel 2-56 balls for the damper tubes.

Blake
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:26 PM   #8060
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Default asphalt 12ths

Crashby QUOTE : On asphalt I have found that the 12L3, Yokomo YRX12, Quad 12 and other T bar cars that have the batteries located further out away from the center line of the car, provides better traction for asphalt racing as they transfer the weight to the outside wheels better. END

he is right, virtually all 12ths, especially 4-cell cars have been designed with carpet racing in mind. Majority of the big races are raced on carpet: Ifmar Worlds, Cleveland, Nationals, and Snowbird. but, the 12L3 and the new L4 have the same placement of batteries next to the t-bar, the only thing the L4 allows is a shifting of the batteris forward or back. the 12L3 chassis is softer due to all the cutouts.

the Quad -12 (no Tape version) has the cells tight to the t-bar. the Quad -12 (tape version) moves the cells out only slightly. i know this because i own one of each.

i will agree with you on the Yokomo. the cells are placed wide and the chassis is soft/flexes. i drove someone's this past Weds on asphalt and it was smooth and fast.

the Corally cars have wide cell placement, along with some of the obscure Japanese cars: Reimon, Kawada, etc.

in the Josh Cyrul thread he made a reply to one of my questions that he is working on a CEFX-12 asphalt version

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 06-29-2004 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:28 PM   #8061
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anyone looking for a Yok. YRX-12WE?...still new!
I have listed in the forsale thread...
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:32 PM   #8062
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dr_hfuhuhurr

i picked up Mini-T titanium ball ends, but i found the ball cups on the dampeners to be too loose. so i had to use some Losi Mini-T ball cups for my dampeners and all is nice
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:34 PM   #8063
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I might try that...I thought they seemed a bit loose too but after inspecting further, they fit the same as the stock balls.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:36 PM   #8064
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guys the quad twelve tape version which he doesnt make anymore is as close as the yokomos and if you place the cars
side by side they are no further out then any of the t plate cars the batteries are just sitting length wise!
yes for carpet some of the manufactures tend to put the batteris inward for better cornering.
the new quad 12a will be an asphalt variant of what is now the quad 12 which will have a (c) after the 12 to denote it as a carpet version.
there will be various refinements made to make it a killer asphalt car!
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:45 PM   #8065
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hey Speed

will the Q-12A version be a no tape car also? has he started cutting on request?

later
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:56 PM   #8066
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Fast,
The Quad12 tape version that you have was very limited run but more could be produced if the demand was there.

The asphalt version of the Q12 will be available after some additional testing and will be tapeless. That's what the Quad12 is famous for.

D.P.
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Old 06-29-2004, 01:20 PM   #8067
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Hi,

I have just finished building and L3, I need a complete set up for high grip asphault, high temperature also. I'll probably be running 19T to start with but I'll go to mod eventually when I'm happy with it.

Thanks
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Old 06-29-2004, 02:05 PM   #8068
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hi,

I have just finished building and L3, I need a complete set up for high grip asphault, high temperature also. I'll probably be running 19T to start with but I'll go to mod eventually when I'm happy with it.

Thanks
If indeed the track has high grip, then I would start off with the following setup and adjust from there.

Front Dynamic Strut:
.020 to .022 springs
If you are new to 1/12th then start off with the 0 degree caster blocks which equates to no reactive caster.
Caster: at least 4 degrees
Keep adjusting your camber & toe in/out until the front tires are wearing flat. No coning positive or negative.
Purple front tire compound.

Rear:
.063 T bar
30 wt. shock oil
Green to light silver shock spring
Medium wt. dampener plate lube. NOTE: clean often!!
Track set at maximum legal width.
Pink or Green rear tire compound. Greens can be fragile i.e.; chunking
Full coverage of rear tires with ZipGrip, Paragon or Niftech traction compound.

If you find that the car is under steering, that's a good thing. It is far easier to remove under steer than it is to remove over steer on a 1/12th car. If the car is under steering, start softening up the front suspension or stiffening up the rear suspension.
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Old 06-29-2004, 02:56 PM   #8069
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are recievers universal like if i have a hitec transmitter and then say a futaba reciever will it work? if the channel is right of course
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Old 06-29-2004, 03:29 PM   #8070
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Hey Crashby, it's the track we'll be racing on Friday night.

(Dusty in disguise)

Thanks for the tips, I wanted something that will be fairly close when I get there. I'll be running pinks and Purples. I have .020 springs in the front, I was going to start with front toe parallel and just a little neg camber.

I think I have the .063 T-bar, I'll have to Ask enzo what he gave me. I'll change my center shock oil before Friday, piece of cake. I only have heavy hydra fluid damper oil, what do you use? Did anyone try changing the plates for tubes? Those plates are a pain in the butt.

Thanks dude.

Last edited by crimson eagle; 06-29-2004 at 03:38 PM.
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