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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-28-2004, 08:59 AM   #8041
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Here is a short vid my CRC 6-pack in action. Just thought I would change things up a little.

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=32456

4 cells, Trinity 19 turn, junk steering servo.

Still has a little ways to go to be competative, but it is getting closer.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:39 AM   #8042
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Hi,

anyone give me some ideas for a decent cheap 12th servo?

Thanks
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:52 AM   #8043
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crimmson I know you want to get on the road but dont go cheap on the servo by the time your done you will have bought three servos fo the price of one good one!

a futaba 9602 is about 70 dollars and an airtronics servo 91457 is about the same and are high quality.
click on the south east hobbies link in my signature.
If the price is not right email the store or call they will help you!
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:11 AM   #8044
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Default servo

Chris-
The cheapest usable servo is the Hitec 225MG at about 30 bucks.
I've actually had pretty good luck with them although I prefer some other, more expensive ones (KO PDS 947 is my favorite). As you have seen yourself, my servos are extensively crash tested!
O'D
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Old 06-28-2004, 12:46 PM   #8045
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Default Newbie to 1/12

I am after a little advise from you guys, i was all set to go out and buy a associated L4 as my first 1/12 car, but then i found the new CEFX C12 car, has anyone out there being running the c12, is it a strong reliable car, and what is it like to setup.
i do like the look of the car, but i dont want to end up with a car thats going to be a hand full for a newbie (am a newbie too 1/12 but have been running a nitro scale saloon for quite a number of years)
or would i be better off with the likes of the rc12l4 with its much simplier design

any comments would be greatly appreciated
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Old 06-28-2004, 01:45 PM   #8046
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jas c12 is a good car but for a newbie with no 12 scale experiance get the 12l4 just because the car as a series has a history a strong following and just about everyone in the world has associated parts available.

check the hyperlink in my signature south rc hobbies they will have something for you! good luck!
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Old 06-28-2004, 03:33 PM   #8047
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Default Re: Newbie to 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by jas1
I am after a little advise from you guys, i was all set to go out and buy a associated L4 as my first 1/12 car, but then i found the new CEFX C12 car, has anyone out there being running the c12, is it a strong reliable car, and what is it like to setup.
i do like the look of the car, but i dont want to end up with a car thats going to be a hand full for a newbie (am a newbie too 1/12 but have been running a nitro scale saloon for quite a number of years)
or would i be better off with the likes of the rc12l4 with its much simplier design

any comments would be greatly appreciated
Just like buying a new computer, you should first know what applications you are going to be using before you buy one. Same thing holds true for radio controlled cars.

Most of the recent model releases from the various 1/12th scale kit manufactures are really designed for racing on carpet. This is evident by the thickness of the new chassis and the lack of lightening holes in the chassis. If you are going to be racing strictly on carpet, then you would want a CEFX or the Associated 12L4. Both are T bar cars but designed for carpet use. There are a couple of other good 1/12th carpet car kits available as well. The Speedmerchant and CRC Carpet Knife come to mind but they are not T bar cars. These kits have the batteries, the largest weight mass, located as close to the center of the car as possible. This provides a low polar moment which will make the car pivot better on high traction carpet. Some of the 1/12th modified carpet racers are running a stiff (CEFX, 12L4) for carpet modified and the Speedmerchant and CRC cars for carpet stock classes.

On asphalt I have found that the 12L3, Yokomo YRX12, Quad 12 and other T bar cars that have the batteries located further out away from the center line of the car, provides better traction for asphalt racing as they transfer the weight to the outside wheels better.

IMHO.

Good Luck!
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:39 PM   #8048
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Hey everyone, just wanted to let you know that we received more CEFX C12 kits in stock.

We also have the 12L4 kits back in stock.

Kraig
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:53 PM   #8049
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Default 12L3 assembly

Hi all,

Does anyone have any hints on assembling the 12L3 front suspension?

From the picture, it looks like use (top to bottom) e-clip, 3 kingpin shims, upper suspension arm, 1 shim, steering block, lower arm, spring then e-clip.

Should the kingpin move as free as a 1/10 TC car or should I leave it snug? I normally open the kingpin hole with a 1/8" drillbit just enough to allow smooth free play, but is that too much.

Is it important to use the elctrical tape around the battery cells on the chassis?

Any other kit hints?

Thanks
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:39 AM   #8050
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Assembled mine just as it came out of the box.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:42 AM   #8051
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Does anyone has a reliable source for Jaco wheels for the 12L3? They are nigh-on impossible to get in the UK. Having to resort to buying second-hand ones.

Jaco don't resond to emails, have they gone out of business?
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:48 AM   #8052
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does anybody here own a Kawada m300 RSW Limited 2
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Old 06-29-2004, 01:20 AM   #8053
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Quote:
Originally posted by hedgecropper
Does anyone has a reliable source for Jaco wheels for the 12L3? They are nigh-on impossible to get in the UK. Having to resort to buying second-hand ones.

Jaco don't resond to emails, have they gone out of business?
Have you tried Whim @ AMC ??

PM if you need more details !
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Old 06-29-2004, 03:43 AM   #8054
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Last time asked they only did the Calandra ones
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Old 06-29-2004, 06:40 AM   #8055
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Default Re: 12L3 assembly

Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

Does anyone have any hints on assembling the 12L3 front suspension?

From the picture, it looks like use (top to bottom) e-clip, 3 kingpin shims, upper suspension arm, 1 shim, steering block, lower arm, spring then e-clip.

Should the kingpin move as free as a 1/10 TC car or should I leave it snug? I normally open the kingpin hole with a 1/8" drillbit just enough to allow smooth free play, but is that too much.

Is it important to use the elctrical tape around the battery cells on the chassis?

Any other kit hints?

Thanks
Sounds like you have it correct. I currently have four shims on top and one in between the top arm and steering spindle. You don't want to enlarge any holes. It's ok if the kingpin is snug on the steering spindle. The part that should be free is the pin through the bottom ball. You can put a little trinity Red Stuff on the bottom of the kingpin.

I use strapping tape for the batteries. The kind with the strings in it. Make sure you round all the corners of the graphite chassis very smooth and seal it with CA so it doesn't cut the tape.

take care
john
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