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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-19-2004, 11:45 AM   #7996
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
super fast HOE cars...

have you been racing lately at HT? When do you guys attempt to run 1/12 and sedan (stock or 19T).

E
12th........5 last Sat and 5 Weds in 12th. Rovic showed last Sat and told me he would be there this Sat. 3 people at HT are in the process of getting 12ths together. Adam undusted a Advanced Designs Agitator-12 (By Louis Garneau) and has been racing.
We have been running Stk motors, but only 4-min, the class is very even. Adam said if we get 6 or more to show , he will run us 8-min. the cars handle with the stock motors, infact they are hammered..... you can run any motor you want in the class (12th Road Course), but you will we find the racing surface won't allow you to be consistent with one. so most of us have agreed to run a stock motor

E, if your thinking of bringing your car out or Max also? i posted this afew pages back:
"1/12 front end chipping........i have been running on asphalt lately also and have found a way to prevent this.
take a piece of 3/4" lexan and mount it under the chassis using the two holes that mount the body posts bend the excess in front of the chassis up. this helps at our track which is a banked oval with a flat infield. the road coarse is run with a combo of both so we have angled transitions, and steel dots on the corners. even the AE front end protectors don't stop the chipping"


TC Stk avg 7 to 10 last 4 weeks, they have been running this class 5-min in all heats now


TC Mod only 1 showed and he ran with us in 12th Weds nite.
Sta and Weds prior to that had a 4-5 avg turnout. still 4 min heats

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 06-19-2004 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 06-19-2004, 11:51 AM   #7997
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
fast ho I dont anything other then the quad 12 which did I mention doesnt need tape to hold the batteries down.

Speed

i have 2 Q-12's, one is the no tape version the other is the tape version. i ordered several chassis plates and kits from Doug about 9 months ago. it was a group order which included fellow racers here in AZ.

i have done well with the Q-12 i have run. because i just started running asphalt, i am running a older CRC 6-PK car
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Old 06-19-2004, 12:23 PM   #7998
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Ozoner

CRC's foam tire tutorial under their TECH DOWNLOADS is about the most comprehensive

on Trinity's site they list their own TRC tires with shore ratings

i haven't seen any comparison between TRC and Jaco/CRC compounds for 12th scale.

i have raced both and can tell you TRC purples are different than Jaco/CRC purple,s and that goes for greys, pinks, etc.........
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:56 AM   #7999
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Fasthe ho run the car on asphalt you like the smoothness the car is as fast on asphalt as it is on carpet!
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Old 06-22-2004, 09:26 PM   #8000
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Default SwitchBlade pinion/ratio

Got my switchblade running. We are manage to get 8-10 racer on our track. It's really fun with fast speed but less scary from my MRX-3 1/8 machine.

I've used novak cyclone esc, 4-pack 3300 match battery & 8-turn motor. my question is how do match pinion/spur combination on this pan car.

I've tried 23p/100spr on 8-turn and 21p/100spr on 10-turn. we medium size open track here..
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Old 06-22-2004, 11:14 PM   #8001
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Shoot who makes this car?



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Old 06-23-2004, 01:26 AM   #8002
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Taz_S;

My guess would be someone in UK.
Looks like its made by Fibrelyte. The carbon is more or less their trademark... Whenever one see a prototype with that structure, one can be fairly certain that it's from Europe. And.. yeah the chassie resembles the Ttech Predator (made by fibrelyte). My 2 crowns...

Where did you find these pics? Took them yourself?

Mag
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:11 AM   #8003
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Taz, I said the same thing. The photo was taken at 2004 ROAR Region 11 Electric On Road Championship.. Rose City.

When I looked at the car a little more, it looks like if you have a big front end impact, on either wheel, and you will be needing a new chassis.

Sure is sweet looking though.
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Old 06-23-2004, 02:04 PM   #8004
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
12th........5 last Sat and 5 Weds in 12th. Rovic showed last Sat and told me he would be there this Sat.

E, if your thinking of bringing your car out or Max also? i posted this afew pages back:
"1/12 front end chipping........i have been running on asphalt lately also and have found a way to prevent this.
take a piece of 3/4" lexan and mount it under the chassis using the two holes that mount the body posts bend the excess in front of the chassis up.

TC Stk avg 7 to 10 last 4 weeks, they have been running this class 5-min in all heats now

TC Mod only 1 showed and he ran with us in 12th Weds nite.
Sta and Weds prior to that had a 4-5 avg turnout. still 4 min heats
I'm going to try and strart coming back out on Sat. since I wrk. p.t. at CH on Wed. nights.

E
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Old 06-23-2004, 02:12 PM   #8005
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taz_S
Shoot who makes this car?

I don't recall who he said made it, but it looks like a one of kind car that I saw at the Reedy ROC last month. Is that motor a Team BROOD motor? If so, then that's the same car... there may be 2 of those chassis out.

The guy that had lives in Calif. but use to hail from the Washington area. I think.

E
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Old 06-23-2004, 02:42 PM   #8006
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1/12 harder to drive than 1/10--12's are more agile and quick right? (better handling)

im gonna start racing mine so im gonna be asking some questions that come up every now and then

-rYan
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Old 06-23-2004, 04:12 PM   #8007
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I posted last Feb that one of my 1/12 scale cars was stolen at the Snowbirds. The car was returned today. Thanks to all the contributed to its return and to those that prayed it be returned.
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Old 06-23-2004, 04:34 PM   #8008
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Quote:
Originally posted by rdub202

im gonna start racing mine so im gonna be asking some questions that come up every now and then
-rYan
No need to make threats... just log on and ask your questions like everyone else does ha, ha
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Old 06-23-2004, 04:36 PM   #8009
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
I posted last Feb that one of my 1/12 scale cars was stolen at the Snowbirds. The car was returned today. Thanks to all the contributed to its return and to those that prayed it be returned.
WOW... usually when these things are stolen they never come back, they just end up in the trash after the person who took it has no idea what to do with.
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:26 PM   #8010
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thanks fike i just didnt want to seem like an annoying newb kinda thing so i was just giving a heads up but u coulda answered my qs lol

-r
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