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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 06-07-2004, 09:20 PM   #7936
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Well I got a 12th scale. It's a Hybrid of sorts. Tell me what you think.

Last edited by pucho; 06-07-2004 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:27 PM   #7937
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Can anyone get me stared with a setup for a CRC Six Pack? I picked one up from a friend and want to give it a shot. Not sure if I'll replace the knife but we'll see.

Track is a small to medium ozite. (Y-City, Ultra in Cinci, or the Gate)

Thanks in advance...
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:00 AM   #7938
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okay since you edited your I'll do mine to.
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push

Last edited by speedxl; 06-08-2004 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:25 AM   #7939
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Default He's alive!

Originally posted by serpentracer1
Damn Apex you just got the car and you want to change the chassis already?Are ya coming up wed nite to race with us,Lafauso started coming up to

So, this is where you have been hiding! Thought you had slipped and fallen out of a boat

Last edited by Demetris Taylor; 06-08-2004 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 06-08-2004, 10:57 AM   #7940
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Default Clean Car

Congratulations, the picture you posted of your car is one of the first ones I've seen where the setup is neat and the wires don't look like a bowl of spagetti!
Looks like an L4 with a Q12 top plate and damper brace. Are those SM damper tubes?
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Old 06-08-2004, 11:10 AM   #7941
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Default no thick chassis

contacted associated and they said no thick chassis will be made...hmmm...no fair

serpentracer1 - i'm gonna try and make it out there tomorrow night. my work schedule has been unpredictable lately. i was up there last saturday practicing. car needs alot of work.

i'll probably pick up a rug rat chassis plate to replace the 12L4 chassis.

Last edited by Apex; 06-08-2004 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:34 PM   #7942
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ran my quad 12 outside breakfly and i pebble chipped my front end hardcore...
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:41 PM   #7943
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ape.x I think I told you!

steve we run on asphalt here in florida all the time I have an asphalt car and a carpet car.

pucho your looks like mine. by the way its a lrp speedo in the car but has been replace with a esx 12 also.

wiring needs to be rehidden this was after having to replace the reciver it took
hard hit!
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:45 PM   #7944
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Default Re: no thick chassis

Originally posted by Apex
contacted associated and they said no thick chassis will be made...hmmm...no fair
If demand was truly there-I could have thick L4 chassis made no problem. 2.5mm seems to be as thick as youd ever want to go on a 12th scale chassisbut you could go 3mm. It would take a month or so for the first few, but its not hard to have done.

But demand is only great for the one or two people who will actually part with there money.

YOu guys make me want to try the Quad 12-but I am known as a Sedan whore-I dont want to be labeled a 12th scale whore too!!

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Old 06-08-2004, 01:01 PM   #7945
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Default 1/12 front end chipping

i have been running on asphalt lately also and have found a way to prevent this.

take a piece of 3/4" lexan and mount it under the chassis using the two holes that mount the body posts bend the excess in front of the chassis up.

this helps at our track which is a banked oval with a flat infield. the road coarse is run with a combo of both so we have angled transitions, and steel dots on the corners.

even the AE front end protectors don't stop the chipping
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Old 06-08-2004, 01:11 PM   #7946
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my 12L3 arrived today and i cant wait to get my new servo so i can go and run it! i have a few questions tho...

1-How do you mount electronics to chassis?-double sided servo tape shiz?

2-how do you mount the motor in it? do i have to take off that top piece?

_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:47 PM   #7947
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ray I talked to doug powell last nite give him a call see what he can do abou getting you a quad twelve.
we also talked about the snowbirds maybe i can wake up this time. you should consider coming back down since we know what conditions to expect.

List of things for snow bird!
1. one loud ass and battery operated alarm clock!
2. 1 box of 100 no doze capsoles.
3. Our own walky talky!
4. a bump box to peak battery in line.
( maybe a shop cart with a car battery to charge while in line)
5. not attend with a newbie! very distracting.
6. no girlfriends ( they cause distractions)
7. sleep when time allows so you wake up in time.
8. keep attention to the order of what round they are on.
9. learn how to use charger function that starts charging batteries automatically!
10.Bring beer!

pluss it wouldnt make a whore you are already one!
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:48 PM   #7948
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Default Re: Re: no thick chassis

Originally posted by rayhuang
but I am known as a Sedan whore-I dont want to be labeled a 12th scale whore too!!

A whore is a whore.

Just kidding.
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:50 PM   #7949
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speedxl--I'll be at Snowbirds for sure in 2005. No way am I missing it again!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:58 PM   #7950
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adam call doug I mentioned to him about the team getting a suite together.
you guys bring your race equipment and since I live here in florida I can suplly the tables chairs and power strips and lighting.
plus there wont be a need for you guys to get a rental car! you guys can have access to mine. lets start planning from now so that way we can get a room by the pool!
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