R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-27-2004, 11:51 AM   #7891
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Hi guys,

I just got a Switchblade SE 2002, what do you guys recommend me to start with setup wise on carpet ?

I thought I'd do that :

run the servo on the chassis (I don't have the servo mounts yet, so it's taped on the chassis for the moment, but it gives a lot of bump steer, so I assume the car will be easy to drive),

No active castor, camber 2 and castor set as per instructions,

Silicone diff grease in the lateral dampers, and in the shock I leave what's actually in (got no idea what it is, but it feels alright), stock springs all round,

Proto P35, 17T motor.

grey/purple tires as recommended for carpet.

The track is quite small and technical, what rollout would you recommend ? I want the car to be easy at first, and I'll make it more agressive as I'll get used to it.

Also, how do you setup the diff ? Should it be almost slipping like on a TC, or very stiff ?

I'm almost a newbie in 12th scale, I had a pro10 in the days, but I was a kid and wasn't aware of what I was doing, so any advice will be apreciated.

PS : Ray, did you see my mail ?
I don't know too many switchblade owners. but I can atleast answer your other questions.

40mm roll out on the 17t is probably a good guess. don't know many people that run 17t motors usually 27t 19t or 8to12 turn motors for most people on here. the 40 is a bit lower then what I run for a 19t which is a 42

as for your diff the diff shouldn't slip at all. but you should have good "diff" action to the point of spinning. that's hard to get. with stock or even 19t it's not as bad as mod. you slip in mod you will toast the diff and ruin it quick. if the diff is slipping it's flat spotting the balls and grooving the diff rings and that's never good. slip control is all in the finger.

purple grey is a good choice and most people are running some form of the speed 8 bently over the p35. but don't run out and buy a new body because you will kill this one enough just trying to get the feel of 12th. the killer thing is once you do everything else and I mean EVERYTHING else will feel like your driving a niko car. and think you get to drive for 8 minutes!

Good Luck and I hope you find some setup tips for your Switchblabe.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 02:29 PM   #7892
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sheffield, UK
Posts: 737
Send a message via ICQ to Cobra81li200
Default

Thanks mate,

I'll run the 17T because I've got a bunch, they're the controlled motor for the french stock TC class (don't ask me why, I think it's stupid not to have used 19T or 23T like everywhere else) and I'm not going to use them anywhere else, so I figured that in the pro12 they'll do a good job at first.

Anyway, don't worry I'm not going to run and get a new bodyshell, I'm aware of the fact that this one might not last long (even though back in the days I've done some pro10 on carpet, so it's not going to be as surprising). Talking about durability, I saw the foam bumper from Kawada, do you guys have tried it yet ? Does it improves the bodyshell's durability? It could be a good thing to put on the car for a start.

So you mean it's fast, gives good sensations and lasts long ? Perfect that's exactly why I'm getting into it !
Cobra81li200 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 03:48 PM   #7893
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 547
Default

my 2 cents worth on a couple of the items:

- Orion motors are great for 12th scale, just dial down the timing as needed to make run time. they do have higher efficiency and it is great to only have to cut the comm once per week. it isn't worth buying a different wind if you already have one, just reduce your timing

- instead of the foam bumper to save the body, I suggest putting shoe goo in the top of the front fenders and gluing some extra plastic where the front of the chassis would hit the body

- especially with the new Rev4, it rocks against the CRC. I agree that the kit doesn't come with a whole bunch of items, but they are all available at any hobby shop.

- I strongly prefer the TRC tires, going real soft on asphalt, pink fronts and platinum (25 shore) rears. these compounds, although soft, actually last great. CRC wheels weigh too much.
barrys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 04:22 PM   #7894
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 15
Default Having a bummer day.

well payday has finally rolled around again so I can order the parts I need to fix my ck and lo and behold not a single part that I need to fix my car is available.. how vary anoying.. So weee I get to wait for who know's how long till they start making parts again.. joy..

Pn# 1346,1280,1273,1261L,1378 not available.
desslok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 05:11 PM   #7895
Tech Master
 
lazarus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New England
Posts: 1,128
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Heh,heh,heh

I know it's not a laughing matter when parts are NOT available. I would suggest a tougher car ! The new Kawada M-300 RSW limited 2 is a nice choice. Try www.kawadaracing.com for info.
lazarus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 05:23 PM   #7896
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 547
Default broken parts

as most who have seen me run will attest, I tend to hit a board or two. However, the only parts I have ever broken on my Rev3 or now Rev4 are the old style front end arms (once every 10 race days or so at most). Needless to say, these are easy/cheap to purchase. Now that I know how to reinforce my bodies (and I love the sturdiness of the CEFX and/or the Speed12), the most pain I get these days is from chunked tires...
barrys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 06:00 PM   #7897
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 4,131
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Scott Fisher
Default

I spoke via e-mail to Bruce (speedmerchant) today. He said the Rev 4 kit will be complete.
__________________
| Capricorn | Ybslow | Proline-Protoform | Johnny Bravo Racing | Desoto Racing | Murnan Modified | Matrix Tires | Powermaster Fuel |

Last edited by Scott Fisher; 05-27-2004 at 10:45 PM.
Scott Fisher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 06:02 PM   #7898
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sheffield, UK
Posts: 737
Send a message via ICQ to Cobra81li200
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys

- instead of the foam bumper to save the body, I suggest putting shoe goo in the top of the front fenders and gluing some extra plastic where the front of the chassis would hit the body
Thanks for the info, but I'm not sure to understand exactly what you mean, do you have any picture ?

Extra plastics like some extra lexan parts ? would the ae front body post do the job ?
Cobra81li200 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:09 PM   #7899
Super Moderator
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,276
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default CEFX C12 kits in stock

Just wanted to let everyone know that the CEFX C12 on-Road Car Kits are in stock along with spare parts are in stock. Some of the items that are in the kit are:

C-LMP900 Light-Weight Body
Titanium Tie-Rods & Front Axles
IRS "D" ring Diff Assembly
IRS Aluminum Pivot Balls
AVID Racing Bearings
Assorted Aluminum Screws
Assorted Aluminum Ball Studs
Jaco Purple Front Tires
Jaco Pink Rear Tires

Kraig
KT Hobbies
__________________
There is great need for a sarcasm font.

You never know when it will strike, but there comes a moment at work when you know that you just aren't going to do anything productive for the rest of the day.

Sometimes I post just to look at my avatar.
Kraig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:44 PM   #7900
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 67
Default

Thanks for the help guys!
amgman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 08:41 PM   #7901
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Thanks for the info, but I'm not sure to understand exactly what you mean, do you have any picture ?

Extra plastics like some extra lexan parts ? would the ae front body post do the job ?
Bud's use to make a body bumper. it's about a 1" square piece of lexan with double stick tape on it so you could probably make them yourself. (sorry bud) works pretty good. you just drive the car a couple laps (that's all it take for me) and the where you notice the chassis chipping the paint away and putting reverse dents in the body you peel off the double stick covering and apply to the inside of the body in that spot. I actually got a trick from the local hotshoe at the track and made a lexan piece that goes over the body mounts so you don't lose it and is about 4" by 2" and goes down to the front of the body. it's like double wall hood for your 12th scale. don't like the foam throws the balance off on the car. extra weight on the front wheels makes the car turn harder. it don't take much.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 06:53 AM   #7902
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 547
Default

agreed - use the lexan where you would get the reverse dents and put shoe goo at the top of the wheel wells in the front and the body will last forever
barrys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 10:03 PM   #7903
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

I am new to 12th scale racing and I wonder if the experts could answer some questions for me.

It seems to me that under acceleration in a 12th scale there is little weight transfer to the rear unlike in a touring car. Am I right? It does appear that the rear pod will flex downwards some, but the middle shock (I have a rc12l3) appears to control the rear wheels contact with the ground due to bumps in the track more so than affecting rearwards weight transfer under acceleration?

Also what is an "average" ride height setting for a 1/12th scale?

In gas sedan racing you usually want your foam tires to be as low profile (side wall) as possible. Is it similar in 12th scale where you use smaller sidewall tires on higher grip surfaces?

Lastly, is there any good online reference material for 1/12th scale tuning?

Thanks heaps guys.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 10:31 PM   #7904
Tech Master
 
Super Steve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,177
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Super Steve
Default

I don't know all the answers, but rideheight depends how new your tires are. usually around 2 to 5mms i beleive.

I think there is only minimal weight transefer in these cars since most of the weight is my the rear, mid mark.

anyways, i drove my car at the track...

SUPER SUPER SUPER sensitive comapred to my pro 4...

If i am not careful with the throttle, i end up spining out

And there seems to be some sort of torque steer even though there should not be when i accelerate? Diff too loose?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 125_25312.jpg (93.1 KB, 215 views)
Super Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 10:49 PM   #7905
Tech Adept
 
Big KAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Napin' in da pits
Posts: 194
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
If i am not careful with the throttle, i end up spining out

And there seems to be some sort of torque steer even though there should not be when i accelerate? Diff too loose?
Pulling to one side is usually a tweak problem. Tweak needs to be right on the money, and a good think to check often.

A common ride hieght for carpet is 3 to 4 mm. I like the tires to have a pretty low profile.
__________________
Xray
Big KAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:07 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0