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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-17-2004, 05:45 PM   #7846
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You use dremel to put on a eclip?!?!?


lol...

O ya, i never got a cone washer thing, but it's ok, I am using 5 or so axle shims now
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Old 05-17-2004, 09:28 PM   #7847
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Perhaps he means he widens the groove a little to make it easier to insert the e-clip.....
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Old 05-17-2004, 10:29 PM   #7848
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I grind down the knuckle. I'm sorry that you didn't get that cone washer. I was assured that I had addressed the envelope right.
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Old 05-17-2004, 10:54 PM   #7849
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yeah thats what i figured, thanks.

i've set tie rod lengths squaring off the front tyres to the rears.. this has done the trick in that the car now runs straight with minumal adjustment and same with it's turning cirlcles.

problem is it's brought a whole bunch of other problems to my attention.

front end:
- the servo can't be centered on the chassis properly to need unequal length tie rods.

- on the front end the upper arm hinge pin touches the body post on the right hand side, while on the left hand side there is a clear gap.

- the reason the right hand side touches the body post might be that the front of the right arm's hole is further from the center line of the chassis - so the hinge pin isn't inline with the center line of the chassis but the front of it is pointing away from it.

this is near impossible to measure, so im not certain if this is the case - but it does look like the left hand side is straight and the right hand side is askew.

- not a big problem, tho i dont know if it's releated to the machining of the chassis, the other problems on the front end, or whatever, but the hole in the ""center"" of the chassis for setting tweak is also off center by a reasonable margin.

rear end:
- assuming that the tweak hole is in the center of the chassis on the rear pod (it looks like it is - or atleast alot closer than the front one is) then the rear axle is .096" off to the left.

while i can only use .040" shims before the axle binds up (yrx-12 we axle).

i guess i can move the shims to the other (diff side) of the axle - but that still wont fully cure the problem. :/

is anyone else running a hammer12 having any of these problems?

any help, comments, ideas on how to fix or atleast minimise these problems would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-18-2004, 03:00 AM   #7850
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had it out to the track since i've done what i can ...it's still really unstable to drive especially in one direction.

keeps slapping side to side in the corner and all sorts of weird stuff.

so i've dug out the yrx chassis again.

the holes on the ah-12 deffinatly dont line up with those on the yrx, and ive found even more stuff wrong with it

think i'll have to shoot of some emails... can't believe there's seemingly so much 'not right' with it.
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Old 05-18-2004, 04:23 AM   #7851
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I don't know what a hammar 12 is , but I know we all here have to shim the rear axle so it is exactly centered or the car will pull under acceleratioin.

You can measure your upper arm pins front and back, then you will know if they are paralell. Dial calipers will do the trick.

CRC makes a real cool Servo mount that will slide left and right a little. This makes it so you can center your Servo Saver. Unequal tie rods are no big deal.

Both Clips can be put on the old skool front end, but it takes some determination. I do the one by the spring first, then you can slide the knuckle up or down a little to make room for the other one.

David Root
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Old 05-19-2004, 02:38 AM   #7852
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Hi all,

I'm planing on purchasing a 1:12th kit. Never had one before and wanted to know which kit I should get? I'll probably get lots of feedback regarding which chassis to get but I just don't want to get one with lots of problems.

I think my local tracks run 4 cells in their 1:12th's.

Looks like a fun class to be in.

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2004, 05:23 AM   #7853
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Default RC12L4

There are only a few major kits, and RC12L4 is the biggest one.

Associated RC12L4
CRC Carpet Knife or T-Fource
Speedmerchant Rev 4
Yokomo
Trinity
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Old 05-19-2004, 06:11 AM   #7854
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Hi Guys, anyone got any feed back on the CEFX, how good are they, how they perform etc.
I know there expensive, but hey
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Old 05-19-2004, 09:54 AM   #7855
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastolfart
Hi Guys, anyone got any feed back on the CEFX, how good are they, how they perform etc.
I know there expensive, but hey
I got to race Josh a lot in Toledo this winter. The car seems to carry a ton of corner speed. I know that Josh was having some trouble getting it to work in really high-bite conditions though. Eventually it will be as good as all the other 1/12s out there. Just need more testing. Remember Assc. based stuff has been around for years and we all have set-ups for those cars.
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Old 05-19-2004, 10:16 AM   #7856
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Default CEFX12

I got to mess around with one recently and drive one about 6 minutes. It's design is very unique and extremely tunable. As you know it utilizes no coil springs. The fiberglass "spring" that makes up the front can be dialed in to be like running a 0.018, 0.020 and 0.022 spring by simply moving a set-screw. Ride height can be adjusted for tire size easily and without requiring realigning the entire front end.

The front end is by far the smoothest actuating 12th scale suspension system I have ever felt as it moves on captured balls(like a t-plate). The efficient movement is key to consistent handling on a 12th scale as anyone will tell you-keep the kingpins, etc polished and clean.

Also-as you know on Josh's website he has a forum and you can always ask him for help on set-ups for your track.
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Old 05-19-2004, 04:16 PM   #7857
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Hey fastolfart, whats that last word on that tee shirt. 'I wish these were _____' what ? Its driving me crazy !!
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Old 05-19-2004, 04:37 PM   #7858
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Quote:
Originally posted by nickcacc
Hey fastolfart, whats that last word on that tee shirt. 'I wish these were _____' what ? Its driving me crazy !!

BRAINS
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Old 05-20-2004, 11:30 AM   #7859
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Default tweak

Hey guys, I need some advice. I'm new to 1/12 scale and I have a CRC T-Fource and a Niftech tweak station. Are there any special tricks or procedure I should follow when setting the tweak on my car?
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Old 05-20-2004, 12:37 PM   #7860
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Hello guys

Ive been racing rc for a while, but i just bought my first 1/12th... And i was wondering if anyone on here had experience with the same car.. I race the Corally SP G3.... anyone know any specific tips or trick, that are absolut "must does"....

Whats the best body for carpet racing? and for asphalt? Tires? and what size do u turn them down to?

Thx
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