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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-07-2004, 10:07 PM   #7741
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Anyone doing any 1/12 on asphalt this summer. Especally near MI.
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Old 05-08-2004, 07:46 AM   #7742
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oooo...
lookylooky


Shame on HB to not include decals with th body!

I think i will paint it red and white like the gtone!
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Old 05-08-2004, 10:32 AM   #7743
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hey guys,
An aluminum screw broke in the rear motor mount/axle holder

Will aluminum part from older associated 10th scale pan cars fit?
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Old 05-08-2004, 10:44 AM   #7744
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Default Rev 3

hey guys...thought I would post a link for anyone interested in a loaded Rev 3. Awesome car!!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...785#post868785
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Old 05-08-2004, 08:06 PM   #7745
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Default asphalt

Adam-
A number of us have started running 1/12 on asphalt this summer (here in Northern Cal, not too near MI) to prepare for the paved nats in July. Most of us haven't run on pavement in many years, so it's been interesting. For myself, the last time I ran on asphalt the car had a seperate rear wing!
O'D
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Old 05-08-2004, 09:38 PM   #7746
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Default JOHNB!!

We're running on asphalt. I'm running in a parking lot of a university in Utah Valley. I got my gearing right today and that car was flyin'. 13x1 D5 geared at 20/72. 2 more guys came to race 12th scale. I hope it really takes off, 'cause this is one of the funnest classes I've raced. I TQ'd and won today, even though I forgot to attach my shock to the rear pod! I don't think people would come up for an on-road race, but a few might make it for the off-road race in Twin Falls. Talk to you later!
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Old 05-10-2004, 03:43 PM   #7747
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therealdanimal,

Would that be Gus's Group out there ?
I have a car I hope to have running soon. it's been a pain to get all the last few parts and pieces for the car. nobody seems to stock the servo I need or the mod motor I want. so it all add's up to weeks of waiting. So far I have missed 3 weeks of racing <sigh> oh well soon.. I keep telling my self soon...
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Old 05-10-2004, 04:28 PM   #7748
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Default Re: JOHNB!!

Quote:
Originally posted by therealdanimal
We're running on asphalt. I'm running in a parking lot of a university in Utah Valley. I got my gearing right today and that car was flyin'. 13x1 D5 geared at 20/72. 2 more guys came to race 12th scale. I hope it really takes off, 'cause this is one of the funnest classes I've raced. I TQ'd and won today, even though I forgot to attach my shock to the rear pod! I don't think people would come up for an on-road race, but a few might make it for the off-road race in Twin Falls. Talk to you later!
That sounds like fun. I've never ran 12th scale outdoors.
I'm running 100/ 23-24 64 pitch with 11 dbl on a 100'x36' carpet. I try to stay around a 1.45 rollout with 10 or 11 turn mods. Seems to run real cool (around 120-130*) and I can run about 9 minutes.
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Old 05-10-2004, 05:16 PM   #7749
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half done

I really hope it comes out ok!
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Old 05-10-2004, 05:49 PM   #7750
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looks sweet so far
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:06 PM   #7751
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Default Re: Rev 4 on Asphalt

barrys was FLYING in his mod 1/12th last weekend! He was running it with the 6c mod sedans (no other 1/12th scales outside) I think he turned the 2nd fastest lap, next to Mike Dumas. Dialed! =) Wish I could say the same for my sedan...


Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
I currently use TRC Cyans in front with Pinks in the rear.

Blue center spring

I am running old-style blocks in the front with no castor or camber (and am getting even tire wear).

I am running Josh's CEFX body to minimize push.

I am not pushing badly but have to be very gentle on the acceleration out of the corners (if you are running mod make sure you aren't using a stock setting on your speedo). Since the rear goes out when not much forward speed, the body type won't help keep the rear planted.

I have ordered some TRC Platinums (softer than Pinks) for the rear. To go with such, I have ordered some TRC tans and also pinks to try in the front.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:05 AM   #7752
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Default Stuff for sale

I am selling my speed merchants and a rev 4 conversion kit...

Rev3 & Rev 4 Conversion
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:34 AM   #7753
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Hey guys, no more old cars for me. I got my 12l4 put together finally last night. Associated instructions suck! Could they be any more vague? Oh well, it is together. I will get some pics up soon.

One question for taping in batts. Do you guys go under the rear brace or over it? I always have trouble getting the tape through the tiny gap between the battery and brace in the rear. With my 12lw I was putting the tape in first, then batts, then bringing the front piece to the rear, then wrapping the rear end over to the front directly over the battery, under the chassis, then back over the brace and over the batts again. I could never get it back under the brace. I hope this makes sense, but this is just something I always wondered how others did. I attached a picture to help make sense.

Also, I used a Paragon hollow antenna mount instead of the stock. This puts the ball higher and made me need to shorten one ball end on the shock. It also changes the angle of the shock, don't know what effect that might have. The mount has a place for what looks like I could use a captured ball end on one end of the shock instead of a ball cup. I was thinking that might make it easier to get the batts in and out, just remove the screw instead of popping an end off. Anyone done this?paragon antenna
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:37 AM   #7754
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on my L4, I go over the rear brace. doesn't seem to affect the handling since the rear brace doesn't move anyway.

I just say do whatever is easiest for you..
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:42 AM   #7755
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24601-the battery stays in largely based on the tension of the tape down to the chassis. The tighter you can pull the tape to the edge of the chassis the better. Does that make any sense?
I sometimes look at guys who tape batteries in and the tape is hanging loose from the battery to the chassis. KInd of defeats the purpose right? I mean you wouldnt run the battery strap on the TC3 loose!!

It will help to get a system going when putting in batteries. For example-put the tape in first-then ut the battery in and the ull it down tight over the battery. Or just place the tpe on the back-then put the batteries in-then pull the tape up and over the front of the battery. This way you dont have to fish the tape around the battery and under the brace.

Ray
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