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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-26-2004, 06:45 AM   #7651
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Beat me to it too! I was waiting to see if I could come in third and get me a few race bucks. Guess I waited too long!

Too many problems with the 12lw (diff still coming apart, traction rolling in the corners). Guess I'll have to wait for the next shipment, try out the front end you gave me until then. Good luck with the car. Let us know how it drives.
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Old 04-26-2004, 06:48 AM   #7652
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Beat me to it too! I was waiting to see if I could come in third and get me a few race bucks. Guess I waited too long!

Too many problems with the 12lw (diff still coming apart, traction rolling in the corners). Guess I'll have to wait for the next shipment, try out the front end you gave me until then. Good luck with the car. Let us know how it drives.
It will get built and put on the track probably tomorrow... If you are out next week I will let you drive it..
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:24 AM   #7653
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Default Handling questions

When going from stock to Modified on carpet-its customary to soften up the car a bit.

When you soften-up the center shock spring and lighten the oil this should slow weight transfer to front giveing an easier to drive car and also more steering later in corner?


I ran mod this weekend and tried going stiffer and softer and I think I overdid it both ways-so didnt really come away with a great balance in handling.

When I ran a stiff center spring and heavy oil I had lost a lot of steering in middle of corner. When I went really soft spring and oil-I found car to be very inconsistent and even squirelly coming out of corners. I think it might have been so soft it was bottoming out.

Just curious. WOluld someone enlighten me?
Ray
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Old 04-26-2004, 11:53 AM   #7654
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Cool Ray , what I have found

The smoother the track and better the traction, the stiffer the center shock can be.

Soft center shock = more rear traction and more low speed steering. Better in the bumpy sections.

Firmer center shock means more high speed steering and more ON power steering.

There is a balance point that you have to find. I almost always use 30 wt in the center shock, although many will argue with me. I have seen posts of people using as high as 60.

I find setting the droop so the rear pod just hangs down 1 mm to 1.5 mm and letting the car just settle into its suspension no matter how stiff the center spring is, makes the car drive the easiest and most consistant. This leaves the chasis levil under laoded conditions with out the body on.

I also think stiff spring with heavy oil defeats the purpose. I want the car to react fast to what is happening with lighter (30) oil.

Hope I helped
David Root

ONLY MY opinion. I only run STOCK.
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:01 PM   #7655
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Default 12L4 & 3

I just got a 12L4 and I have a question as the instructions doesn't say anything... does anything fluid or grease wise go between the dampner discs?

thanks!
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:16 PM   #7656
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Default

I think Blackstock uses trinity red stuff between the pad and plate.

Its been a long time since I ran with damper discs-but I do know less is more-so have no excess grease as it WILL attract dirt under the plate over time. Just enough to get a smooth damped feel-the wipe off any grease that gets pushed out around egde of disc.

David Root-thanks. I think I went too far to extremes both times and thts why I never got the balance I wanted. I went from Red with 30 wt to Black Wolfe with 80 wt. to silver with 30 wt. IT might have been best to run Blue with 30 wt.


Ray
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Old 04-26-2004, 02:17 PM   #7657
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Default Re: 12L4 & 3

Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
I just got a 12L4 and I have a question as the instructions doesn't say anything... does anything fluid or grease wise go between the dampner discs?

thanks!

I've kinda settled on using "green slime" like you use on shock O rings. It's seems to be the right consisance and doesn't change over an 8 minute run. Just a very THIN film is all it takes. Like ray said, less is more.
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Old 04-26-2004, 02:18 PM   #7658
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Default Re: Re: 12L4 & 3

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
I've kinda settled on using "green slime" like you use on shock O rings. It's seems to be the right consisance and doesn't change over an 8 minute run. Just a very THIN film is all it takes. Like ray said, less is more.
Thanks!
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:56 PM   #7659
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HEY HOW MUCH ARE THE NEW 12L4 KITS SELLING FOR? I HAVEN'T SEEN THEM ANYWHERE YET. WHO'S GOT EM?
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Old 04-27-2004, 06:36 AM   #7660
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jammin J
HEY HOW MUCH ARE THE NEW 12L4 KITS SELLING FOR? I HAVEN'T SEEN THEM ANYWHERE YET. WHO'S GOT EM?
My LHS sells them for $179...
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Old 04-27-2004, 08:03 AM   #7661
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Beat me to it too! I was waiting to see if I could come in third and get me a few race bucks. Guess I waited too long!

Too many problems with the 12lw (diff still coming apart, traction rolling in the corners). Guess I'll have to wait for the next shipment, try out the front end you gave me until then. Good luck with the car. Let us know how it drives.
Hey Peter, check your PM...
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Old 04-27-2004, 08:31 AM   #7662
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Peter, YGPM...
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Old 04-27-2004, 03:49 PM   #7663
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will these wheels fit the car ?????????

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...EBWN%3AIT&rd=1
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Old 04-27-2004, 04:33 PM   #7664
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What are the major differences between the L3 and 4 ??
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Old 04-27-2004, 06:14 PM   #7665
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what are the spur and pinion size that you guys use for medium sized track with mvp?

i am gonna try 96 and 31 with tires that are a little worn
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