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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-18-2002, 07:21 PM   #751
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dave,
I tried calling you and didnt get an answer. I will try later. The answer to the question is...........the expected has happened. The project starts tomorrow. oh well, big bucks coming my way
IKE
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Old 03-18-2002, 07:45 PM   #752
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First HELLO to everyone. My new switchblade will be here tomorrow. So first off for darnold, any building tips??? This is my first 1/12. Also as of right now I only have access to AE springs, will they work w/out doing a bunch of mods to the car/setup? I will be running primarily SMOOTH asphalt 100x50 ( I could use a setup for that ) I think that is it for now, I am sure i will have more questions. i tried to read thru some setup stuff but w/out a car setting here and no manual to explain what you are talking about I am CLUELESS!! LMAO Anyhow I am sure I will be visiting here frequently...later
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Old 03-19-2002, 10:31 AM   #753
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Default Ackermann

Hello racers,

I am wondering what everyones take is on high ackermann steering set-ups for 12th scale cars.

Ackermann affects the slip angles of the tires. When you turn the wheel with zero or little ackermann, the two wheels turn about the same amount. With high ackermann, when you turn the wheel, the inside wheel turns "more" than the outer wheel.

Regardless of what ackermann is-what does it do in terms of a 12th scale 4-cell carpet car? Does it help turn in? Does it cause the inside wheel to scrub acrosss the carpet at mid-turn robbing speed? What affects does it have on corner exit? I am wondering as it is such an easy handling tool to dial in and out of the car.
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Old 03-19-2002, 03:55 PM   #754
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Rayhung- Since I have struggled in the past to have ackerman in my cars due to the laying down of my servos on the chassis I can't say with any authority what I have noticed since getting that aspect dialed into my car. Ackerman probably helps mid-corner and exit corner speed most since it shows up more in this portion of the steering range but this may not be conclusive. Since Ackerman seems to allow for two things to happen at the same time which is the loading of the inside front tire some by keeping it in contact with the ground a little more and a "jacking" affect then maybe turn-in and transition are also aided. This "jacking" affect on the outside tire relating to weight transfer may be similar to what I have heard caster does and there seems to be definate times when this is better for corner speed than others. When this would be good or bad may depend upon the conditions, the layout and maybe the driver. When you use the servo mounting blocks in the 12th scale kits the Ackerman is more or less pre-set for you but when you lay the servo on the chassis for 12th cars you seem to be able to adjust this parameter more. So "have at it" and report back your findings because I would really like to know. As of now I simply try to have as much as reasonably possible so it would be nice to know the actual differences. Ultimately I wish Spashett, Dieter or Cyrul would answer this question because they know far more than I do.
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:15 PM   #755
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Will- Associated front springs are fine (start off with .020" the trinity .020's in the trinity kit are more like .019's I've been told) but you may need to trim the "lip" off of the lower arm pivot ball so that there is enough clearence. I would highly recommend leaving a .010' gap between the spring and the bottom E-clip for a little sag because the car is easier to drive and more consistent this way.
Concerning asphalt racing, standard setup on asphalt for me this past summer when I ran it a couple of times was the same as my carpet setup EXCEPT: I used a "thin" t-bar of .063" and took the center screw out of the T-bar for more side and forward bite, I used one grade softer center shock spring, I ran pink dots for the rear tires and I used thick Hydra fluid instead of thin in the damper tubes.
This was for the CRC 6pack which has a more flexible chassis at .090" than the new Trinity 02 edition at .110" so there was more overall traction for lower traction conditions such as asphalt vs. carpet for the 6pack. With what I am learning now If I was going to run the Trinity outdoors like I might do this summer a little I would probably use the older chassis plate of the edition just before this latest new version because I think it was the same thickness as the 6pack car so the car would develop more overall grip and even maybe cut out the middle of the chassis in between the saddle pack aka Cyrul from last years outdoor nats just to gain a little more traction. I would also probably lower the front roll center some from my carpet setup to help the car steer better since the grip is a little lower. I was amazed at the loss of front end grip when I ran some last year and Jucha and I were actually trying to dial some turn-in into the car for the 180's. -Dave Arnold
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:29 PM   #756
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Well.....my weekend went o.k......other than having my ride height way too low......i had it at 2 mm. instead of 3mm.....talk about a ton of black gunk on the chassis and batteries.....the car was twitchy....(low ride height i'm sure)anyway......live and learn.....
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:30 PM   #757
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Dave.....did you ever get a hold of your bottom plate that you were looking for last night? The story I heard is that you forgot to turn at the end of the straight..... But maybe thats not true. Good luck out there in Cali see ya when you get back.

Oh what did you think of the new track out there in South Holland??????
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Old 03-19-2002, 04:44 PM   #758
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Dragon S- I knooooww what you mean about live and learn. heheheh

Kevin= What the!!!? As Espo would say. It seems like you talked to the Jucha. hehehe No I didn't forget to turn but I did forget about the huge track elevation change and my car went airborne SIDEWAYS into the barrier!!! Not fun, definately not fun!!! Repaired the damage and it seems fine. Haven't heard from Pepe Lemiux yet but I sholuld see him tomorrow. I ran two more times after that just to check the repar quality and it ran great with no problems so if he doesn't have one then it shouldn't be a biggie. The facility is nice and so to is the owner. They seem to have a good "do whatever it takes" attitude about the track and I am sure that they will have the severe bumps fixed. He was talking about putting down a "Cleveland" style plywood under floor to eliminate the concrete flooring problems. Even the TC's were being thrown into that wall if they went too fast for too long down the straight so they will definately need to fix that. Other than that it was really nice and the owner has some definate ideas about how to run things that are refreshing so you may want to hook up with Rob and check it out one night. Well, I'm "Off to the Nats in the wee hours of da' the morning ladd" so have a good race weekend. -Dave
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Old 03-19-2002, 09:24 PM   #759
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Darnold....good luck at the Nats.....
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:10 PM   #760
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Default Speed 8

can someone tell me on the Protoform Speed 8 what the gurney lip is for (where it goes, how you attach it) and also those 2 little rectangles on the back do they get cut out? I am new to 1/12 and haven't a clue!!!! Trinity car is going together NICE thus far!!!
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:13 PM   #761
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wilson,
Not real sure on the two squares but I would assume that they are the "bolt-on" side dams that you attach to the back. The "Gurney Lip" is a small piece of plastic that mounts of the rear wing of the car. It is nothing more than a little strip of lexan that bolts to the rear wing and you can adjust the height for more of less rear DF. Like I said, I dont use the Protoform Speed 8 but from what you have asked these are the 99% best of my knowledge.
IKE
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:18 PM   #762
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foams- No the rectangle parts are ACTUALLY on the car right where the body begins to transition up to the wing. as for the gurney lip, how is it adjustable , does it sit FLUSH on the body and slide up and down??? I mean heck there weren't even any dang screws with the body..how cheap!!!
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:23 PM   #763
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wilson,
My experience with gurney lips are from my Serpent cars. They were adjustable, they slide up and down. As for the rectangles I think those are the side dams. Again, not having seen one before I cant be sure but this is my best guess.
IKE
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Old 03-21-2002, 07:50 PM   #764
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Anybody know where the results will be posted for the on road nats?????
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:16 PM   #765
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can anyone else comment on the question about my body??

Foams- I don't think yo understand me, the lines for the rectangle areas are like behind the cockpit on top of the ACTUALL body. one of the lines it dotted also.SO what I mean is I will have 2 rectangular holes behind the cokpit where it starts to transition up to the rear of body. I may take a pic tomorrow to show what I am talking about!!! I am not too sure what to do with them, I guess I will leave it for now and paint the darn thing. Car is together, electronics are in i just need to go get a servo saver tomorrow!!!
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