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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-21-2004, 08:12 PM   #7606
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but look!
even i can tell that this is not right
The "thick" graphite part does not reach the inside of the cone washer
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:21 PM   #7607
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Steve either get an IRS cone washer wich is smaller or put axle shims on it till it clears the rim.
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:23 PM   #7608
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Steve-- It took a while to come back to me because I haven't used that diff in years. The cone washer you have worked with the older style wheels. PM me with you address and I will send you one or you can get a new one from teamirsrc.com Look under diff parts and you want the short diff cone.
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:35 PM   #7609
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Hey SuperSteve,

Where do you run 1/12th in or around Cornwall?

At St-Roch, Montreal we are starting a 1/12th class this summer. I'm also interested in a little travelling...

Phil Matthews
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:28 PM   #7610
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
Hey,
there is no space for the bearing to fit over the spur.

I am thinking of using a 10th scale servo before i can buy a mini one.
Or should i just get a GS mini Servo that they have at the hobby shop?

I sabataged my old 6 cell pack to realize that the jumper wire has to go over and around the shocks...
stupid me...

Do you need to glue the diff ring to the hub in anyway?
The blue diff ring carrier on the axle, has a shoulder that the spur gear rides on. You lube that with some diff grease and then slide the spur gear on that shoulder. On more high tech (re: expensive) axles, that shoulder is not there. In itís place you put a flange-less bearing for the spur gear to spin on. Makes a more efficient drive system.

You donít have to lengthen your jumper wire on your battery pack. Just pop one end of the shock off of the ball stud, mount your batteries and then pop the shock back on. Thatís what most everyone else does.
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:20 AM   #7611
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
both those Swedish 12ths look nice and they appear to use Jaco/TRC Wheels. prices are reasonable. web shop won't open?

the MH front is unique, looks half AE, some Trinity-ish. can any Swedish drivers give us a comparion on the improvements in handling.

the Corner Thief looks like a nice cross/combo of the HPI and SM Rev4 cars.

the SpeedEvil other than minor cosmetics..... looks near dead on like the CRC T-fource.
Well, the improvement is that it keeps the line through the curve, which means that you can run a tighter line more securily. It doesn't have the, as we call it over here, "Ass-wobble" (No, Ass doesn't mean that! It's just an abbreviation) that is commonly seen on cars running an LS front suspension. What I mean is, if you throw a car into a turn that has an LS front, it will turn in, loose its grip and then reclaim the grip. In other words, it will "change lane" one or two times during the cornering. This behaviour is mostly because of the reactive caster setting. One can set up reactive caster on the MH as well, but I don't recommend it. It's very unsettling... (Nice words huh? )
In comparison to a Trinity (Delta), one can adjust the camber without affecting the caster, which is VERY nice since it reduces the time it takes to make an adjustment. The camber gain can be easily changed as well. That affects the agressiveness during cornering (the grip in other words). The ride height is adjusted like any other AE based, with shims.
Thats it, I think...
Magnus H
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Old 04-22-2004, 05:48 AM   #7612
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
ah...

Also,
Does this look right to you?
I don't see how the rear tire will be able to sit perfectly true to the axle like this.
Change the cone to a non-tapered straight spacer. I think CRC makes them. That should fit under your tires.

Who make the tires you are running? They don't look like CRC, TRC or Jaco. That might be your problem too.
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:38 AM   #7613
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I am not sure who is the maker of the rims but i thought they were jacos? Grey rear and purple front...


Adam, if you will be so nice to send me a new cone, i will be glad to take it

Sending you my address after I post.

Phil Matthews,
Cornwall doesn't have a 12th scale class but we do have road course.

Only real racing here is 10th scale ovals But some of us bash with touring cars on road course. I just decided to try 12th scale since it should be more fun to play on our pretty small road course.


You can see me testing my pro 4 at the track
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.ph...9f92eed5d315b8
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:00 AM   #7614
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Steve,

I should have photocopied this for you, but here it is from the insctruction book.

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...awing_12l3.pdf

The rear tires you have are from T.M. Racing Components.
Adam Hartzell should also recognize those
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:05 AM   #7615
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Super Steve,

When you get it up and running, come up to Monteal for a little racing. We race every other Friday in the summer, starting May 7th at 7:30. We run stock/foam touring and 1/12. Bring some friends!!!

Later, Phil Matthews...
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:35 PM   #7616
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sure I will try when i have the time!

I lost a rear wheel today... so mad....
I think it fell off my bag when i took my cap out on the bus


as for servo i think i will buy micro std just so i have something...
http://www.aeromicro.com/microservos.htm

Che! if you haven't already, I'd check your 1:1 scale mailbox!
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:50 PM   #7617
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Got some 16 guage wires today so i can wire up the esc to the motor!

hmm...
Choice 1 = run trinity R minus plugs
Choice 2 = run euro "twisted" plugs

I heard choice 2 is alot better but i am not sure...

you guys out there?
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:13 PM   #7618
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
Got some 16 guage wires today so i can wire up the esc to the motor!

hmm...
Choice 1 = run trinity R minus plugs
Choice 2 = run euro "twisted" plugs

I heard choice 2 is alot better but i am not sure...

you guys out there?
I use the un twisted plugs from team orion.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:28 PM   #7619
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Steve--I will get that cone washer in the mail on Monday. I can't get to the post office tomorrow. Glad to see you driving a Quad 12.
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Old 04-23-2004, 05:16 AM   #7620
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12 scale is the only one I solder all connections. Everything else I use deans for batteries and solder motors in.

Saves weight, bulk, and makes for a neater nicer looking ride.

David Root
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