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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 04-16-2004, 12:40 PM   #7531
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Originally posted by serpentracer1
Clint I normally rollout anywhere between 1.71and 1.75 with a monster I ck my times to see where the motor starts to drop and than go from their.

I start my tires out around rear 1.84-1.86 front1.72-1.75
Thanks, I will try that roll out this weekend at the series race I am going to. I have my tires right about where yours are now.

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Old 04-16-2004, 01:50 PM   #7532
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Originally posted by Mag
That diff that got everyone confused is from TRC. Don't know if they actually produced them themselves, but thats from where I got mine. That was before they joined Trinity. If one look more closely at their 12scales they sold at that time, they look VERY much like the Delta ones. Difference being that the plastic was black instead of "Delta red". 10 year old stuff. Doubt one could find spares. Perhaps the diff was originally made by Delta? Anyone know?
It looks pretty much like a typical ball diff until you get to that screw at the end of the axle. That is were it gets confusing. I have been racing pan cars for a long, long time and honestly, I cannot remember ever seeing an axle with a screw on the end of the axle instead of a setscrew with a lock nut. But then again, I can hardly remember what happened yesterday!

It really depends on what 24601 wants to do with that car. If he wants to seriously race the car, I would suggest he upgrade to a newer, better diff/axle assembly. IRS makes some very good axle/diff products both using D rings and rubber O rings to lock the diff rings. I have used their products with great success. I now use Niftech which I think is the best but very, VERY expensive, unfortunately.
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Old 04-17-2004, 12:39 AM   #7533
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Does anybody know enough about the Yokomo YRX12 car to tell me if TRC tires are supposed to work correctly with the car, or if I screwed something up?

The left rear tire scrapes on bottom plate of the rear pod. I can shim it out, but that locks up the rear axle pretty well. I finally got it to work by adding washers between the wheel and the hub, but niw (in theory) the car is over the width limit.

Does anybody use this combo? Should I go with Jaco (or whatever) instead? Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2004, 02:26 AM   #7534
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yeah unfortunatly that's normal, i had the same problem with mine.

to make the trc's fit without additional shimming you might need to have the overhang on that lower rear pod deck machined back a bit.

... or just use jacos

Last edited by tones; 04-17-2004 at 02:31 AM.
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Old 04-17-2004, 07:19 AM   #7535
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The TRC tires have the mounting holes slightly recessed into the wheel. You will neded to grind the bottom plate a little to give them clearance.

You will also need to use a longer screw to hold the TRCs on, if youre using Jaco, you can use a 1/4" screw (I think thats the length), and for TRC you need one thats a little longer.
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Old 04-17-2004, 07:22 AM   #7536
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I am getting Che's Quad12 with "Old skool" front end.
Do you guys know what type the front end is?

Also for bodies, What should i get?
I really like Toyota GT-one and looks like Hot bodies makes them.
Speed 12 I guess is suppose to be the "better" body but it looks weird with that extra small cockpit.

What do you guys suggest?

I will be running on carpet track that allows paragon.

I don't have groudn effects as they were out so I bought some FXII.

Are they the same thing?
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Old 04-17-2004, 09:20 AM   #7537
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This is Michael that roomed with nashCrasher.com LOL down the hall from you in cleveland last year.

Just an FYI with TRC tires you have to add quite a few shims no matter what the car to get it the correct width. if you use the right axle shims it should cause no binding... I think BRP makes some that work good.

If you think about it, running a Jaco with no spacers will make your car wider than adding shims to TRC's. Jaco's tire actually protrudes out past the wheel. the tire is the same size as the TRC, but the wheel sticks out where it mounts up. Actually, associated cars are too wide if used with Jaco rims according to Roar rules.

My advice from many years of racing is... try shimming it out so that it clears a few thousandths and only put maybe one or no shims on the right side and actually measure it. I'm sure that it won't be over.

If I'm wrong... just blame it on Mr. NashCrasher aka nashrcracer LOL
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Old 04-17-2004, 09:44 AM   #7538
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thanks for the hit there goobertemp
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 04-17-2004, 10:36 AM   #7539
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here is a picture if it helps
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hpim0441.jpg (192.8 KB, 194 views)
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:02 AM   #7540
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What servo is everone running in their cars?
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:14 AM   #7541
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no prob bob
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Old 04-17-2004, 03:26 PM   #7542
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Lightbulb Euro Pro12

After the full session qualifs, the TQ is David Spashett and his CEFX.......
Tomorrow "when you are sleeping" ,there are all Mains...and maybe the first trophy and win for CEFX .....

Stay keep info on 12th scale Euro's .........

Hey sir Calandra is in C Final..... yes we run fast here in europe, it's not a joke..........
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Old 04-17-2004, 03:27 PM   #7543
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Super Steve, what's car is it?
Thank for info and who do i contacting for a speedmerchantt? We ddo not know this car in Europe and i'm interested as i see everyone on this forum speak about it...
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Old 04-17-2004, 03:32 PM   #7544
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I beleive it's a PRC Quad12 with some sort of "old skool" front end
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Old 04-17-2004, 04:13 PM   #7545
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Originally posted by Super Steve
I beleive it's a PRC Quad12 with some sort of "old skool" front end
Super Steve,

The "Old Skool" front end was the one used by AE prior to the introduction of the "Dynamic" front end. The "Old Skool" front end is still popular in stock for its ease of set up and low maintainence.

Go with the body you like but you will notice that the Parma Speed 8 Or Protoform Speed 12 will work better in most cases.

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