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  • Re: 24601 Diff Problems
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Crashby
    After looking at the picture of your axle/diff assembly, it appears you may have some missing parts.

    Starting with the axle working from the diff ring flange on the axle, out to the cap head screw, the order should be…

    1. Diff Ring – preferable notched
    2. Flangeless bearing – unless axle has shoulder for the spur gear to ride on.
    3. Spur Gear
    4. Diff Ring – again preferable notched
    5. Flanged bearing, providing the wheel hub is recessed to accept a flanged bearing
    6. Wheel Hub
    7. Flanged bearing
    8. Washer for cap screw
    9. Cap screw

    It is very important that the washer on the cap screw only touches the inner race of the outside flanged bearing. An improperly assembled dif will cause the car to dart suddenly most times to the left but not always.
    OK, I tried this, and adding the non flaged bearing to the center of the spur causes the diff to not be able to be tightened. I cannot tighted the screw enough to make contact with the rings. Also, I don't have a bearing small enough to fit where the thrust bearing is now like you suggested in 7-9.

    However, If I put it
    1. Diff ring
    2. Flanged bearing
    3. Spur gear
    4. Unflanged bearing (recessed into the hub)
    5. Hub
    6. Thrust bearing in the hub

    this seems to work. I don't really have anywhere to drive it to test it, but it seems better. I am wondering if I should use any thread lock on the thrust bearing screw.
  • Re: t-bars
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Fuzzy
    What's the word/opinions on graphite t-bars? Anyone?
    i ran one on our indoor track, the track was flat and the carpet was proffessionally glued down FLAT (keyword). the CRC 6PK was able to hold a line and switch lines as needed. it was like dring a well behaved touring car. ran the CRC Super Stiff Silver center spring, green side springs, and still had no forward traction problems.

    when they put short hair (hi-bite) Ozite on top they stretched over the top of the old carpet and taped the joints. this was down so incase of a huge offroad event they can roll up the carpet to save it from damage. it wasn't flat and shifted from time to time and had to go back to fiberglass and a copper spring
  • Re: Re: 24601 Diff Problems
    Quote:
    Originally posted by 24601
    OK, I tried this, and adding the non flaged bearing to the center of the spur causes the diff to not be able to be tightened. I cannot tighted the screw enough to make contact with the rings. Also, I don't have a bearing small enough to fit where the thrust bearing is now like you suggested in 7-9.

    However, If I put it
    1. Diff ring
    2. Flanged bearing
    3. Spur gear
    4. Unflanged bearing (recessed into the hub)
    5. Hub
    6. Thrust bearing in the hub

    this seems to work. I don't really have anywhere to drive it to test it, but it seems better. I am wondering if I should use any thread lock on the thrust bearing screw.
    Hmm... putting a non-flanged bearing in the spur gear should not cause the diff, not to tighten. I could not see the face of the axle in your pictures. There needs to be a slight recess for the bearing in the face of flange on the axle. If there is not a recess then that would prevent the diff from tightening.

    A non-flanged bearing on the inside of the wheel hub could work depending on what make the hub is. I have seen both.

    Maybe you could post some new pictures of the axle and wheel hub showing the face of the flange on the axle where the diff ring goes and of the inside of the wheel hub where the outside diff ring goes.

    Do not put any thread lock on the diff adjustment screw!!! You have to adjust/R & R the diff too often. Repeated removal of a thread locked screw in aluminum will eventually damage the threads in the end of the axle.

    We are getting close!!
  • Crashby,
    I got it to work. I went back to your way, but I had the flanged bearing with the flange to the outside. I flipped it with the flange on the inside, with the rest of the bearing resting inside the hub. I put the non-flanged in the spur gear. Now everything sits tight and feels good. Wish I could go race to test this weekend, but I can't . I will maybe try a street run or something like that. Thanks for the help guys.

    Still haven't heard back from emailing T.M., but hopefully I will just to be sure.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by 24601
    Crashby,
    I got it to work. I went back to your way, but I had the flanged bearing with the flange to the outside. I flipped it with the flange on the inside, with the rest of the bearing resting inside the hub. I put the non-flanged in the spur gear. Now everything sits tight and feels good. Wish I could go race to test this weekend, but I can't . I will maybe try a street run or something like that. Thanks for the help guys.

    Still haven't heard back from emailing T.M., but hopefully I will just to be sure.
    Cool!! I knew you would figure it out!! Now don't go out in the street and wedge the thing under the tire of a parked car. I've done that.

    If you have any more questions, do not hesitate to ask. I have been running these stuipd little cars for over 20 years!
  • 24601
    Sorry for not getting back to you. The phase-2 diff. requires
    2 flanged bearings to hold the diff. on center, and you can use
    either a non flanged bearing or flanged bearing in the spur gear.
    I will take some photos of our display set up and post them so that you can see what is looks like. Also what type of diff. nut are you using. It should be our one peice diff. nut to hold it together.
  • If you look at my pics (on the page before by now) you will see exactly what I had. There is no nut, only a screw with a thrust bearing on it. Perhaps it is an older style, because I looked on your site and it looks slightly different from the pics there.
  • 24601

    I saw the photo and it is not ours, but I will PM you with an offer if you are interested.
  • Hey Peter.. next time you are at the track, I can help you get your car going..
  • I just might take you up on that. I think I am close!
  • Cool... See ya the next time you are out at the track...
  • Clint,

    Most of us at Stockton have been running the monster for a while, we started running with a rool out of about 1.75 at the begining of the season but we came down to about 1.55 by the end. with a good set of cells we could get just about the same top speed, but come out of the corners much better. Recently I've been working on getting more steering into my car so I can shave off a few tenths, we had TJ Bradley out for a race in stock and I got the opportunity to watch him for a few races, he was very efficient with his laps and his car turned on a dime, I managed to finish within a lap of him in the final and he was just over a lap behind the mod guys. My theory is right now that I need as much twitch as I can handle to get the best lap times.
  • That's cool. Last week my car was as fast as the guy that won, but my driving wasn't.

    I am going to play with the roll out and see what works best for my Rev3..

    Thanks for your input
  • Clint I normally rollout anywhere between 1.71and 1.75 with a monster I ck my times to see where the motor starts to drop and than go from their.

    I start my tires out around rear 1.84-1.86 front1.72-1.75
  • That diff that got everyone confused is from TRC. Don't know if they actually produced them themselves, but thats from where I got mine. That was before they joined Trinity. If one look more closely at their 12scales they sold at that time, they look VERY much like the Delta ones. Difference being that the plastic was black instead of "Delta red". 10 year old stuff. Doubt one could find spares. Perhaps the diff was originally made by Delta? Anyone know?

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