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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-15-2004, 05:00 PM   #7516
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Posts: 245
Default Re: 24601 Diff Problems

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
After looking at the picture of your axle/diff assembly, it appears you may have some missing parts.

Starting with the axle working from the diff ring flange on the axle, out to the cap head screw, the order should be…

1. Diff Ring – preferable notched
2. Flangeless bearing – unless axle has shoulder for the spur gear to ride on.
3. Spur Gear
4. Diff Ring – again preferable notched
5. Flanged bearing, providing the wheel hub is recessed to accept a flanged bearing
6. Wheel Hub
7. Flanged bearing
8. Washer for cap screw
9. Cap screw

It is very important that the washer on the cap screw only touches the inner race of the outside flanged bearing. An improperly assembled dif will cause the car to dart suddenly most times to the left but not always.
OK, I tried this, and adding the non flaged bearing to the center of the spur causes the diff to not be able to be tightened. I cannot tighted the screw enough to make contact with the rings. Also, I don't have a bearing small enough to fit where the thrust bearing is now like you suggested in 7-9.

However, If I put it
1. Diff ring
2. Flanged bearing
3. Spur gear
4. Unflanged bearing (recessed into the hub)
5. Hub
6. Thrust bearing in the hub

this seems to work. I don't really have anywhere to drive it to test it, but it seems better. I am wondering if I should use any thread lock on the thrust bearing screw.
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:52 PM   #7517
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Default Re: t-bars

Quote:
Originally posted by Fuzzy
What's the word/opinions on graphite t-bars? Anyone?
i ran one on our indoor track, the track was flat and the carpet was proffessionally glued down FLAT (keyword). the CRC 6PK was able to hold a line and switch lines as needed. it was like dring a well behaved touring car. ran the CRC Super Stiff Silver center spring, green side springs, and still had no forward traction problems.

when they put short hair (hi-bite) Ozite on top they stretched over the top of the old carpet and taped the joints. this was down so incase of a huge offroad event they can roll up the carpet to save it from damage. it wasn't flat and shifted from time to time and had to go back to fiberglass and a copper spring
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:53 PM   #7518
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Default Re: Re: 24601 Diff Problems

Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
OK, I tried this, and adding the non flaged bearing to the center of the spur causes the diff to not be able to be tightened. I cannot tighted the screw enough to make contact with the rings. Also, I don't have a bearing small enough to fit where the thrust bearing is now like you suggested in 7-9.

However, If I put it
1. Diff ring
2. Flanged bearing
3. Spur gear
4. Unflanged bearing (recessed into the hub)
5. Hub
6. Thrust bearing in the hub

this seems to work. I don't really have anywhere to drive it to test it, but it seems better. I am wondering if I should use any thread lock on the thrust bearing screw.
Hmm... putting a non-flanged bearing in the spur gear should not cause the diff, not to tighten. I could not see the face of the axle in your pictures. There needs to be a slight recess for the bearing in the face of flange on the axle. If there is not a recess then that would prevent the diff from tightening.

A non-flanged bearing on the inside of the wheel hub could work depending on what make the hub is. I have seen both.

Maybe you could post some new pictures of the axle and wheel hub showing the face of the flange on the axle where the diff ring goes and of the inside of the wheel hub where the outside diff ring goes.

Do not put any thread lock on the diff adjustment screw!!! You have to adjust/R & R the diff too often. Repeated removal of a thread locked screw in aluminum will eventually damage the threads in the end of the axle.

We are getting close!!
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Old 04-15-2004, 08:14 PM   #7519
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Crashby,
I got it to work. I went back to your way, but I had the flanged bearing with the flange to the outside. I flipped it with the flange on the inside, with the rest of the bearing resting inside the hub. I put the non-flanged in the spur gear. Now everything sits tight and feels good. Wish I could go race to test this weekend, but I can't . I will maybe try a street run or something like that. Thanks for the help guys.

Still haven't heard back from emailing T.M., but hopefully I will just to be sure.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:05 PM   #7520
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Crashby,
I got it to work. I went back to your way, but I had the flanged bearing with the flange to the outside. I flipped it with the flange on the inside, with the rest of the bearing resting inside the hub. I put the non-flanged in the spur gear. Now everything sits tight and feels good. Wish I could go race to test this weekend, but I can't . I will maybe try a street run or something like that. Thanks for the help guys.

Still haven't heard back from emailing T.M., but hopefully I will just to be sure.
Cool!! I knew you would figure it out!! Now don't go out in the street and wedge the thing under the tire of a parked car. I've done that.

If you have any more questions, do not hesitate to ask. I have been running these stuipd little cars for over 20 years!
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:48 AM   #7521
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24601
Sorry for not getting back to you. The phase-2 diff. requires
2 flanged bearings to hold the diff. on center, and you can use
either a non flanged bearing or flanged bearing in the spur gear.
I will take some photos of our display set up and post them so that you can see what is looks like. Also what type of diff. nut are you using. It should be our one peice diff. nut to hold it together.
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Old 04-16-2004, 05:23 AM   #7522
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If you look at my pics (on the page before by now) you will see exactly what I had. There is no nut, only a screw with a thrust bearing on it. Perhaps it is an older style, because I looked on your site and it looks slightly different from the pics there.
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:06 AM   #7523
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24601

I saw the photo and it is not ours, but I will PM you with an offer if you are interested.
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:27 AM   #7524
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Hey Peter.. next time you are at the track, I can help you get your car going..
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:12 AM   #7525
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I just might take you up on that. I think I am close!
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:15 AM   #7526
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Cool... See ya the next time you are out at the track...
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:52 AM   #7527
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Clint,

Most of us at Stockton have been running the monster for a while, we started running with a rool out of about 1.75 at the begining of the season but we came down to about 1.55 by the end. with a good set of cells we could get just about the same top speed, but come out of the corners much better. Recently I've been working on getting more steering into my car so I can shave off a few tenths, we had TJ Bradley out for a race in stock and I got the opportunity to watch him for a few races, he was very efficient with his laps and his car turned on a dime, I managed to finish within a lap of him in the final and he was just over a lap behind the mod guys. My theory is right now that I need as much twitch as I can handle to get the best lap times.
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:57 AM   #7528
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That's cool. Last week my car was as fast as the guy that won, but my driving wasn't.

I am going to play with the roll out and see what works best for my Rev3..

Thanks for your input
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:05 PM   #7529
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Clint I normally rollout anywhere between 1.71and 1.75 with a monster I ck my times to see where the motor starts to drop and than go from their.

I start my tires out around rear 1.84-1.86 front1.72-1.75
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:36 PM   #7530
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That diff that got everyone confused is from TRC. Don't know if they actually produced them themselves, but thats from where I got mine. That was before they joined Trinity. If one look more closely at their 12scales they sold at that time, they look VERY much like the Delta ones. Difference being that the plastic was black instead of "Delta red". 10 year old stuff. Doubt one could find spares. Perhaps the diff was originally made by Delta? Anyone know?
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