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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-14-2004, 11:54 AM   #7501
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Default DaveL

DaveL- no offence taken.

It seems that you completely missed the point of what i was trying to write however. I was simply pointing out with an illustration that not dumping in your race and not dumping based upon Race Pace can be two different things. Personally when i come back from a run i check to see how much time i have left and then i divide that by the amount of time i am off pace. As long as i am close then i feel fine.

By the way at the Nats i never dumped and had one of the most "pushy" cars that i have ever driven. And i tried everything i knew making major setup changes before every run to get rid of that condition and never really did, this is part of what i mean by i still have a lot to learn. Even through to the mains i was still getting info from Doeseck and Cyrul to help things get better, still learning.

I think you would agree that my car worked much better in the lower bite conditions the weekend before when Rott and i went 42 laps.
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Old 04-14-2004, 03:08 PM   #7502
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Default 24601 Diff Problems

After looking at the picture of your axle/diff assembly, it appears you may have some missing parts.

Starting with the axle working from the diff ring flange on the axle, out to the cap head screw, the order should be…

1. Diff Ring – preferable notched
2. Flangeless bearing – unless axle has shoulder for the spur gear to ride on.
3. Spur Gear
4. Diff Ring – again preferable notched
5. Flanged bearing, providing the wheel hub is recessed to accept a flanged bearing
6. Wheel Hub
7. Flanged bearing
8. Washer for cap screw
9. Cap screw

It is very important that the washer on the cap screw only touches the inner race of the outside flanged bearing. An improperly assembled dif will cause the car to dart suddenly most times to the left but not always.

The other thing I noticed in the picture of your car was that you have the old school front end on the car but the steering servo is mounted at an angle. Mount the servo flat on the chassis using MIP servo tape, part number 1044 as this is the next best thing to bolting the servo down. You will have to reverse the servo saver to the top, making sure that the bottom of the servo saver does not contact the chassis in any way. Also make sure that the tie rods are slightly angled back from the servo saver to the pick up point on the spindles.

As far as moving your rear body posts further back, a 12L3 rear cross brace should fit which would allow you to move the rear body posts up and back. I would then grind off the old body post bosses on both sides of the chassis as this will be the first thing to rub in the corners and unload the rear tire.

If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to email me.
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Old 04-14-2004, 03:14 PM   #7503
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Darnold

I think what Dave L is getting at is if you do as many laps Mike B you MUST therefore by default be driving the same distance per lap, therefore your total race distance traveled as seen by your car will be the same, even though you have more laps. This means your batteries will have pushed your car the same distance you are just lapping more efficiently. This is 90% of getting good times in 12th. The alternative would be to drive more laps but drive that extra 40' or so per lap which would be either impossible or scarily impressive.
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Old 04-14-2004, 06:05 PM   #7504
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24601:
This is T.M. and we still have the Phase-2 Diff's available.
Give me a call if you need more info. on it.
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Old 04-14-2004, 08:14 PM   #7505
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12L4

Any word on ship date for the 12L4? The AE website says this week...

Phil Matthews (patient, but anxious, 12L4 pre-orderer).
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:14 AM   #7506
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Default t-bars

What's the word/opinions on graphite t-bars? Anyone?
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:49 AM   #7507
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Darnold

I think what Dave L is getting at is if you do as many laps Mike B you MUST therefore by default be driving the same distance per lap, therefore your total race distance traveled as seen by your car will be the same, even though you have more laps. This means your batteries will have pushed your car the same distance you are just lapping more efficiently. This is 90% of getting good times in 12th. The alternative would be to drive more laps but drive that extra 40' or so per lap which would be either impossible or scarily impressive.
Eagle gets my point. I think Dave A did too, but has another thing to analyze. That's fine if he gets better from it. But Dave, you gave away the answer in your last post. You said that you had a very pushy car and made run time. I am not surprised. The pushy situation MADE you get off the throttle. Runtime is then "no problem." Another thing to ponder is this. Using so much throttle will make almost any car "pushy." And when your car works on "low bite conditions", you are off the throttle. My point still applies. Good luck.
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Old 04-15-2004, 08:28 AM   #7508
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Default Re: 24601 Diff Problems

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby

The other thing I noticed in the picture of your car was that you have the old school front end on the car but the steering servo is mounted at an angle. Mount the servo flat on the chassis using MIP servo tape, part number 1044 as this is the next best thing to bolting the servo down. You will have to reverse the servo saver to the top, making sure that the bottom of the servo saver does not contact the chassis in any way. Also make sure that the tie rods are slightly angled back from the servo saver to the pick up point on the spindles.
If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to email me.
Thanks for the diff info, just from memory I am not sure if it is going to work exactly as you said, but I will look tonight. I also emailed T.M. to get info from them.

As far as the servo goes, I was under the impression that flat mounting was best for outdoor tracks and angled for carpet. I also know that this car came with an old school front originally (though it wasn't old school then), and had the mounts. I am planning on switching to my Hitec 225 MG servo, but what would be the advantage to mounting it flat?
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Old 04-15-2004, 08:34 AM   #7509
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Hey Peter... I raced with you this last week at Mikes.. My Rev3 had the servo mounted on angled mounts and I switched to putting it flat on the chassis, and the difference is definitely noticable. My car was more stable and not as twitchy. Much easier to drive.

I also use the old skool front end because it works better on smoother tracks.

I would say try the servo flat and see if you like it. I know I do.

See this week...

Clint
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Old 04-15-2004, 08:39 AM   #7510
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Smile

I also have a new style front end if you want to try that.. You can have it....
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:20 AM   #7511
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Default Re: Re: 24601 Diff Problems

Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Thanks for the diff info, just from memory I am not sure if it is going to work exactly as you said, but I will look tonight. I also emailed T.M. to get info from them.

As far as the servo goes, I was under the impression that flat mounting was best for outdoor tracks and angled for carpet. I also know that this car came with an old school front originally (though it wasn't old school then), and had the mounts. I am planning on switching to my Hitec 225 MG servo, but what would be the advantage to mounting it flat?
Usually you mount the servo flat with the "old school" (ie; Associated 12e - 12i) on carpet. It does seem to quite the car down. But I have run the 12e - 12i front end with the servo flat and angled. Same with the dynamic strut front end- the servo flat and angled. The reason you run the angled servo mounts is to minimize bump steer.

It really is all a matter of preference and your driving style. While someone can give you a set up for your car, it will only get you in the ball park. Understanding your skill, driving style and what the car does when you make changes to it, is the key. The best thing I can recommend is test, test, test. Practice, practice, practice.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:48 AM   #7512
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
I also have a new style front end if you want to try that.. You can have it....
I might take you up on that. I won't be there this week. I have to be somewhere else. I hope to be there again soon. Racing is always hit or miss for me as I live over an hour from the track. Practice time is almost non-existant.


I will mount the new servo flat and see what happens.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:32 AM   #7513
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That's cool. I will have it with me and the next time I see you, I will give it to you.

Car setup is all about the driver. There are few instances where the same setup fits more than one driver but not usually.

I like my cars stable and smooth.. I hate twitchy cars....
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:48 AM   #7514
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That is what I liked about the Corally, it was easy to drive. But I also never seem to have even close to the speed of everyone else. I am getting rid of the Corally because of parts issues, but it was a good car. I just want to drive this one for a while. I might be needing to get an off-road too since my son is racing that, but I haven't decided yet.

Any other setup advice?

I also think my rollout was wrong. What are you running for Mike's? (stock, of course)
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:52 AM   #7515
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I am running a Monster motor using a 1.8 roll out... This past weekend was my first race in 1/12th scale (I usually run off road) and my car didn't have good speed until I trued the tires. once I got them down a bit, the car really picked up!

BTW - I have 2 off road cars for sale, XXX-T MFE and a XXX Bk2..
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