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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-12-2004, 08:17 PM   #7486
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Thanks for the help, but I don't think that is the same diff I have. If you notice my axle does not have the threaded piece on the end like yours, the screw with the thrust bearing on it holds everything together.
Well, like I said, it could be some aftermarket axle that I haven't seen, or maybe the 12LC had that configuration (I've never seen one up close). I have never seen any 12L with that thrust bearing on the end all greased up like that. I can't imagine someone actually running something like that since it's exposed.

Hopefully someone that knows will chime in and it's just some different setup that I'm not aware of and you have all the needed parts.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:17 PM   #7487
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Seems I can't be missing more than maybe a bearing and a few washers in there. If I can get the diff together I will run it as is. I have never finished better than last in a race anyway, I don't think having a 12l4 will help me much. I just like going around the track, but I would like to be able to control the car.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:19 PM   #7488
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
hey if your looking for a 12L I happen to have one sitting here in my room. drop me an IM and we can talk business
I've got 3 to chose from as well
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:22 PM   #7489
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You guys feel free to email me what cars you are trying to unload, but like you said, I don't want to drop much more into this one. I just want to get it together (basically the diff) and run. It doesn't need to be hopped up or the latest and greatest, just go in a straight line when I need it to.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:28 PM   #7490
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YGPM amigo
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:38 PM   #7491
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
You guys feel free to email me what cars you are trying to unload, but like you said, I don't want to drop much more into this one. I just want to get it together (basically the diff) and run. It doesn't need to be hopped up or the latest and greatest, just go in a straight line when I need it to.
Ok man, I just pulled out the 12LW, will you come clean my basement now?

The 12LW diff is rather different in that the blue washers and other washers in my photos are replaced by thick machined aluminum washers. The one difference between mine and yours is the assembly on the right rear outside. Mine has a machined aluminum cone type washer with steel cone washers inside it, and then the same nylon type nut on the end where it's threaded. I think this may be where your problem lies in addition to the diff rings not being secured.

Sorry I was thinking they were the same, these cars are OLD. You having to cut the ballcup on the shock was correct. Also, I know it's a stupid question, but have you checked and set the tweak on the car?
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:46 PM   #7492
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24610
I was digging through some old 12th scale parts and I found a right side hub that looks like the one you have but I cant remember where it comes from. that definately is not an associates axle setup. all of thiers have the threaded end to them some were threaded on both ends. I think its a bolink or a delta. I like the thrus bearing idea it should work well like that. Maybe try cleaning it all up and sand the rings good and glue them on the hubs with a little silocone.(sp) You know rubber gasket stuff if ya want the technical term. Maybe the balls are bad as well. It looks like all of the parts are there to make it work. If it keeps coming loose try a TC3 diff spring on the end if it fits.
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Old 04-12-2004, 11:23 PM   #7493
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
the diff parts, in order they came out. I am thinking there is something missing, and I am not sure which way everything needs to face.
don't know if I missed it but it looks like you have a TM diff. it was made so you could take off the wheel without screwing up the diff setting before the stealth diffs came out.
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Old 04-13-2004, 12:09 AM   #7494
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Nope, none of us came up with that. Was there a problem with keeping them tight?
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Old 04-13-2004, 09:48 AM   #7495
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Hey dude how are things going? Heah i ran from around '84-'88 and only a few club races and one major race in '89 and then was out of RC completely until '99.

I did pretty well on a local level (i was the classic "budget" racer) but never knew more than a 1/3 of what i have learned in the past 5yrs. The sad thing is that i still seem to be behind on some important things... but i'm learning. LOL!
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Old 04-13-2004, 10:04 AM   #7496
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Default Traceracing, Fast-ho-cars

Traceracing- something that i have found out about dumping and not dumping is this: If Blackstock runs 43 laps and someone else runs 42 laps and you run 39 laps you need to make sure that you have enough juice left at let's say a 30amp discharge that would allow you to go at least another 2.5 laps (say 28sec.).

If you come back with 7-15 sec than you WOULD dump if you were on pace in this example. I think often people don't realize that not dumping in their race is not the same as getting close or on pace and not dumping.

Also, it seems that the average motor used for carpet racing in the states here with the big boys tend to be 10-9 turns (sometimes 8's) geared around 22-25/100 with 1.85" -1.87" rear tires with a tab and a half worth of timing.
--------------------

Fast-ho-cars- WOW!, i have never seen 450s but i have heard that they exist. I've also heard/read that 1.20's (voltage) at 30amp discharge also exsist (World's) but i've never seen anything like them.
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Old 04-13-2004, 11:07 AM   #7497
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Quote:
Originally posted by nashrcracer
don't know if I missed it but it looks like you have a TM diff. it was made so you could take off the wheel without screwing up the diff setting before the stealth diffs came out.
Do you know any more about this diff, like maybe who TM is or where I could find information.
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Old 04-13-2004, 11:19 AM   #7498
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TM Racing is still in bussiness but I doubt they make the diff any more.
http://www.tm-rc-racingcomponents.com/

as for batteries I have a pack of 1.19 cell and I have heard about the 1.20 batteries also from reliable sources and I have seen last year at cleveland indoor champs 466 batteries and heard of 480, I know the 466 were team main packs for one of the "B" drivers so you would figure the "A" drivers have better.
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:29 PM   #7499
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i have seen those #'s on packs matched by Orion or AE, but you have to remember they use LAVCO equipment.

the number i mentioned were by various matchers using CE equipment

*many things done by matchers can cause #'s to vary because of:
charge rates 5 vs. 6 amps
zapping
other trade secret processes
temperature of room
temperature of cells prior to starting process
temperature of equip, so it is the same for each test
software being used (CE)
cutoffs used
checking recalibrating equipment regularly or the lack of

etc. etc.
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Old 04-13-2004, 07:43 PM   #7500
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Dave - hold on with that discussion about the batteries. I just can't agree with your description of run time and what is needed. You are leaving the impression that you throttle and steer equal to Mike B. Well, that isn't even close. Let's look at this a little more realistically. Your lap is somewhere around 40 feet longer than Mike's. How do I know? I stood by the track and I watched. Also, remember when I yelled at you that you were using too much throttle? It was true. You were ripping on that thing like it was stock. Mike B. will be 3 laps better just by driving that 40 foot shorter lap. Those two things will get you close.

Now please don't get the idea that I am ripping on you. I am trying to help you out. You have improved from earlier in the year, but you have some to go to make your goal. At least I think your goal is to run equal to Mike B. So my recommendation after seeing you run is this, "be quick and efficient." You don't need that blinding speed.

Here is another comparison. Look back at the effort by Jacob Pritchard at the Nats. He qualified second and won one of the qualifying rounds. He was running some batteries that were from me. They were 433 run time at 30 amps discharge on CE equipment. He made time easily. He was close to Mike in qualifying because he ran a lap that was close to the same length as Mike's lap. Good luck dude, and keep working on it. You just might get there!
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