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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-17-2002, 01:22 AM   #736
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Foams- 1.85" is where I base my gearing off of since I don't do roll out. For the rest of my current setup:
Assoc. .20 front springs, a .010" spacer under the steering block since I cut off the lip on the pivot ball. If the lip is still there don't put a washer underneath the steering block since this lowers the roll center and gives more reaction and traction. I put about .042" worth of washers on top of the steering block which helps to raise the roll center some. I put Trinity Red Stuff in the pivot balls to dampen their action and on top of the arm there are no washer, just the "e" clip. On bottom of the kingpin I notice that a .010" space is missing between the spring and the bottom e-clip. On bumpy tracks I found that you leave this gap so that the suspension can have a bit more travel. It smooths out the car as a result on bumpy tracks. What I am not sure of is if this is standard for all tracks which is why I am going to test it out tomorrow. I run 2deg negative camber and about 3deg caster now(I was using about 4.5deg caster). I am now using the 10th scale arms since they don't have cut outs in them and this raises the roll center so I use the small ball studs ala Cyrul on the front and on the rear I use the medium ball studs for some reactive caster. I might try going to small ball studs with a .032" plastic washer underneath them ala Cyrul in Car Action which I think is a little lower so the car won't have as much reactive. This may make it more linear and scrub a little less but I'm not sure so that will be tested on the third run tomorrow and I'll report back. I run the T-bar as close to the chassis as possible for more rear bite and stability with thick T-bars and Red Stuff in the damper tubes. More and more I think my initial moto is: Traction problems address with roll centers and Handling problems address with caster and springs. What's your setup everybody?
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Old 03-17-2002, 01:25 AM   #737
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man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hey dave wanna just build me one? I'll get a new kit out to you pronto!
IKE
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Old 03-17-2002, 01:39 AM   #738
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What are some good sturdy rims to use for the rear of my L3?
I'm getting sick of my jaco rims cracking all the time.
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Old 03-17-2002, 05:46 AM   #739
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safaridog -(wooof) the Jaco grey rear rims seem the most durable to me. The best thing to do is not hit anything.
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Old 03-17-2002, 02:44 PM   #740
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darnold-how's it goin'? I did pretty well last night, considering that i was only a few laps down from mitch(you know, the man, wel up here any way). I drove like crap and stuffed my car into a huge pole in a pile up first lap. this threw my car off tweak. But still, I was really consistent all night-all my lap times were within a few tenths of eachother. All were in the 12.6-13.0 range, except when I got tangled up in lap traffic. the guy thought it was necessary to hit me, or block me every time I lapped him. Oh well, that's racin'. depending on how well my car treats me (or visa versa) I may just run Mod for the Norrca nats, with your old armatures!

I was expirementing this weekend. I used a purple front/green rear setup, with 16's up front and it was hooked! i had to dial out steering, since I had so much compared tomy purple/grey w/ 18's setup.

I also busted up my chassis pretty bad. the front where the posts screw into got ally chipped up, so I put some Associated front guards on it and filled in the rest with CA! and it worked!

Good luck to all,
Thepetenis
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Old 03-17-2002, 03:56 PM   #741
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Hey guys, I need some help...

I saw a purple Micro VCS shock from the Trinity's SB12 2002 Edition...and I was wondering if I could just get the shock set?

I went to all my LHS and none of them have Trinity stuff...so if you guys know your LHS has one, can you help me buy one??

I'm very in need for this shock...

The part number I believe is Trinity #SB1009

If you have one, Please PM me...
Thanks
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Old 03-17-2002, 09:10 PM   #742
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You have the right part number. Trinity gets it from Associated and has it annodized purple. If you don't care if it isn't purple, just get the Associated and go win.
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Old 03-17-2002, 09:34 PM   #743
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Davidl,

I don't ussually hit boards , the rims crack from people hitting me.
Anyone have a suggestion?
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Old 03-17-2002, 10:15 PM   #744
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hey guys I am new at 12th scale and need to paint my first 12scale body, but I need some inspiration. I am to lazy to look bacl at all the posts to see if anyone has posted pictures, so as a favor to me, can you guys post pictures of your 12th scale bodies?
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Old 03-17-2002, 10:49 PM   #745
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Chevy350smallblk,

Killer name, dude! I like to paint my bodies after some paint schemes I see in movies. I have a speed 8 that is painted like Mad Max's yellow interceptor in the first movie, and I have a Parma speed 8 and a Nissan P-35 that are going to be in the light blue/ orange accents like Steve McQueen's car in the movie,"LeMans". That paint scheme was a hit last year at Oktoberfast at TCHR. Billy Easton and Barry Baker both signed it and thought it was a cool paintjob. Both of these are easily duplicated, and I am unaware of wether or not you own an airbrush, but I can tell you the colors I use if you want.


Paint on with your bad self!!!

Dave S
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Old 03-18-2002, 09:23 AM   #746
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Foams- Bring the kit to the Nat's and we'll go through it. LOL

Safaridog- TRC rims are stronger than Jaco's but the rears shorten the wheelbase by 1/4" so you will need to do the appropriate spacing on both sides to bring the car back to max width.

BTW- for all of the gang did you know that the new Trinity car is really narrow in the rear width and that you need to add some spacers to get it to max legal width of 6.75"? This will greatly add to the stability and consistency of the car.

Petenis- Did you ever find out if that motor was a 10turn or 9turn? Try Integy ASQ brushes with a slot in the middle and Trinity Green Springs (or equivalent) at 8-10deg timing and then tell me what you think of it. If you get more runtime then gear up a tooth on the pinion.

Chevy350- I don't have any pictures of my car but it is white in front with a fade to red that goes for about halft the body ending in flame tails with a hint of gray accent and the cockpit is black with the rest of the body being white. Rob King of "Kickasso Paints" does my bodies and he is really good, I bet he could paint up anything you want and he may be going to the Norrca Nats up in Minnesota. Drop him a personal message here on the forum he's under RobK. Maybe he can give you some inspirations even if he doesn't paint the body (although you WON'T be dissappointed if he does). If you paint them yourself don't forget that you do it on the inside. heheheh
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Old 03-18-2002, 02:02 PM   #747
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bump
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Old 03-18-2002, 03:24 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
You have the right part number. Trinity gets it from Associated and has it annodized purple. If you don't care if it isn't purple, just get the Associated and go win.
But do they sell just that purple shock set?
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Old 03-18-2002, 04:32 PM   #749
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thanks for the reponse guys, I will be using cans and nits not my first job, just my second. I think I want to do orange falmes into black on the rest, adn then a roger rabbit picture on the wing part. I think i am going to find this forum very useful.
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Old 03-18-2002, 07:14 PM   #750
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darn-old, I mean darnold (Sorry I just realized that and had to say something)

I have both a ten and a nine turn. I can't get any Integy brushes from anywhere around here! I don't have a credit card either to order on line! so what are some similar brushes! I hae recently been using reedy copper on-road springs with around 10 degrees and they are extremely fast!

That motor my brother (Dave S) is getting is a 700 hp 511 cu. in. motor that makes all it's power off 92 octane, naturally aspirated! Its going in our 66 Nova wagon, which has a 4-link rearend, and strut front end. It's a fully tube chassis. We hope to run it in super gas, and expect it to be at least 9.90's in the quarter mile. Crazy fast for a wagon!

thanks for all the info Dave, and I'll try your motor set up if I can ever get those brushes!

Thepetenis
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