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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-12-2004, 12:51 PM   #7471
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I am having great success with ZX Racing cells..
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Old 04-12-2004, 02:39 PM   #7472
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The latest generation of "shorty" cells will last more than one run for mod (before that, you literally had to have a fresh pack, espically for mod sedan, since it lost 30+ seconds of run time after one run). Should be interesting what the deal is with the new Sanyo's...
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:12 PM   #7473
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
So are you saying you like your new packs or no.
yes i like the new packs, they were all 420+sec. also Fukuyama charges their cells at 6 amps prior to discharge. some of the PM cells i have had are done at 5amps and had 430 to 438sec #'s. the cells i got from Fukuyama were much better when it came to runtime on the track than the PM's i had. they both use CE equip, but everyone has their own methods, system, etc. i always charged at 4 amps.


i use PM's in my TC#
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:14 PM   #7474
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I need some serious help here guys. I just bought a Associated 12lw or lc, not sure. I know it didn't have a front end when the guy before me had it and he put the old school on. I literally took this car out of the box, ran in the hobby shop, bought a few parts to get the steering together, through on electronics, ran to the track setting up the radio on the way . I was pretty happy until I started to run it.

The car has 2 major problems, which may or may not be related.
1. The car just seems to shoot every which way all over the track. I turn, it sometimes turns, sometimes, goes straight, sometimes the other way. I just can't seem to control this car at all. I have been running 12th for a while now with a Corally and was doing OK as far as learing to drive it, but this car won't go 5 feet without shooting one way or another. I know I must have screwed something up, I am including a pic so maybe you can see something. I know the servo is huge, but the chassis is not drilled for a micro servo and I didn't have time to do it.

2. My diff kept coming undone. I had to sock it down to run and even then it eventually came undone. I will include a pic of the parts in the order I removed them. I think something must be missing. It is an older diff style.

The shock also didn't fit, was too long. i ended up cutting the ball ends down and compressing it a little. I have a Paragon rollover antenna I am planning on installing, but I have to put a smaller servo in first (Hiec 225 I already have) and change one end to a captured end.

Finally, can I change the rear pod to any of the newer parts. For example, could I change the top plate and plastic side to the new parts to give me more room around the motor to work on it. Also, could I use the newer bar across the back (don't know the name) to put the body post up there instead of beside the batts?

Hope this all makes sense, I really really need help.
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:16 PM   #7475
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the diff parts, in order they came out. I am thinking there is something missing, and I am not sure which way everything needs to face.
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:37 PM   #7476
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Is that every diff part you have? Also, what are you keeping the rings on with, superglue?
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:53 PM   #7477
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That is everything that there was. All I did was change the spur gear, I didn't change anything else. So, no, the rings are not superglued.

I think this must be older than the 12lc, because I got the manual for that off the Associated website and it has the newer rear pod and a different diff.
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Old 04-12-2004, 06:59 PM   #7478
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It was a 12LW like I think I and another pointed out in the thread where it was being sold. You're missing a lot of diff parts, unless there is some aftermarket diff I was unaware of. If you can't find what you need I can pull and old 12LW apart and show you what you need and in what order with a photo. But I probably won't have time for a couple days to do so I'd say without a doubt your handling problems are diff related.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:04 PM   #7479
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I would appreciate it. I was just running what it came with.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:08 PM   #7480
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IS that screw all greased up on the right side of the pic a thrus bearing? Is that what you adjust and use to hold it all together? Instead of changing the rear pod. Maybe you should go for a newer rear axle setup. I put a IRS big diff on my old Agitator and it worked alot better. Im almost positive the Tbar mounts are the same so you should be able to replace the rear pod with newer stuff but you might as well buy a new car then for all that trouble. With the 12L4 release alot of 12L3's are for sale. I tried to get my old Agitator going this year just so it wasnt wasting away on a shelf and I could have bought a new 12l3 for what I spent in parts and time trying to get it going not to mention all the frustration. The most I would do is replace the axle so it could also be used on a newer car as well. My new axle fit in my used 12L3 perfectly and the agitator is back on the shelf where it belonged all along.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:59 PM   #7481
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Well, it looked like you needed help pretty badly so I got to work on the info you needed... Now this is off the 12L, not the 12LW, but I'm pretty sure the diff configuration stayed the same. I'll check this out to be sure tomorrow since my 12LW isn't easy to get to right now.

In this photo you see all the parts with an extra cone washer to give you an idea of what it looks like from both sides. I had drilled hubs and used notched diff rings, I'm not sure if the notched diff rings are even still available. If not you'll want to get a super fine grit sandpaper and glue the diff rungs to it then cut them out with a hobby knife. The other option is to superglue the rings to the hubs, but that makes for a lot more mess when you go to change the rings.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:04 PM   #7482
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Here's a closeup of the configuration on the outside of the right rear wheel, the black washer in this photo is the same as the blue ones that you see in the other photo which ride on the bearings in the ride height spacers.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:09 PM   #7483
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Thanks for the help, but I don't think that is the same diff I have. If you notice my axle does not have the threaded piece on the end like yours, the screw with the thrust bearing on it holds everything together.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:11 PM   #7484
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I would suggest either getting a new 12L4 when they come out, scarpping that car, hoping someone has an old 12L axle and asembly for cheap, or buying another used 12L for cheap for parts. Buying a new rear axle and the parts you would need would probably be about as much as you could get a whole car for used.

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Old 04-12-2004, 08:15 PM   #7485
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Thanks for the help, but I don't think that is the same diff I have. If you notice my axle does not have the threaded piece on the end like yours, the screw with the thrust bearing on it holds everything together.


hey if your looking for a 12L I happen to have one sitting here in my room. drop me an IM and we can talk business
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