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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-11-2004, 10:37 AM   #7456
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Old 04-11-2004, 01:33 PM   #7457
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Default Re: Re: NEW Sanyo 3600 cells

Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Fast,
How much more run time do we need? We race for 8 minutes. I don't see this being a good thing. Sanyo should make a good cell first, then increase capacity if need be.

D.P.
When i don't have to put a receiver pack on my 12th to keep the car consistent for the last 2 minutes and not dump with 30sec remaining. i run nothing below a 10dbl and usually run a 11 dbl.

look at offroad, they still only run 4-5 minutes (ROAR - IFMAR)same as they did 20 years ago when 1200's were the only game in town. the new batteries with higher milliamp ratings have increased the average voltage over the 4-5 minute runs. after the 2000's came out, i never dumped again. today in offroad some guys do 2-3 warmup laps prior to their heat and then run 5 min....with no problems

wouldn't be nice if you could do that with a 12th scale?

when the 2000's came out everyone jumped for joy......since 2400's, 3000's, 3300's they have been saying what you are saying now. to be honest so did i, until i got back into 12th racing in 2002

as for sanyo cells, 3000HV's were very good and could take high charge rates. i had i never had the problems that my friend had with his panasonic 3000SMH & 3000UMH. the 1st gen panasonic lite blue 3000nimh bats were junk

GP's first cells weren't a smashing success and the Sanyo 3300's were better..... until GP's 2nd gen cells. their new 3rd gens yellow/green are the best.

i am sure GP is ready to match or exceed the new sanyo cell in all areas.

the new panasonic 3600 haven't panned out in tests, they don't even produce numbers that the current GP's have.

the BAT WAR is on!


Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-11-2004 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 04-11-2004, 05:07 PM   #7458
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Hey guys! I had my first 1/12th scale race yesterday and I took second!

I am loving my rev3! I think I am going to update to a Rev 4 soon!

Thanks Ray for your help.

It was kewl.. I kept getting faster and faster and I ran a full lap faster in my main than I did in my heats!
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Old 04-11-2004, 05:16 PM   #7459
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Good show man! hey YGPM
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Old 04-11-2004, 05:44 PM   #7460
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It was lots of fun!

Then a friend let me drive his XXX-S after the races and I loved that too!!!

All my offroad stuff is now for sale(which is only a BK2 as my MFE seems to be sold) and I will be on onroad junkie now...

lol
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Old 04-11-2004, 07:50 PM   #7461
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Default Cars, batteries and .....golf

Well James and i just completed our first round for the season although it was actually my second. The swing is sound but the putting and chipping are terrible!!!!

I ran my new Rev.4 yesterday at RSJ and with some tips from Jucha regarding the center shock and the addition of some o-rings to take slop out of the steering linkage it was the most awesome 12th scale car i have run yet! Boy do i wish i had this car a month ago.

On the subject of batteries the biggest issue to me has been the cycle longevity of the cells. 5-10 cycles (charge/discharge) before the loss of runtime is unacceptable and GP is the first company that has made the NiMh cell to get past this barrier.

The Sanyo and Panasonic cells lost runtime within this time frame it seemed to me and thus neccessitated constant replacement with new packs especially if you were going to run modified 12th scale. On-road modified racing uses runtime and permanently losing more than 15-20 sec. of runtime is major in my opinion.:

It's like taking a 410 pack out of the car and running a 390 or 380 pack in it's place and i don't think that is going to cut it in todays racing. With the longevity and performance (runtime, voltage, i.r.) of the GP cells even 12th mod is enjoying a steady comeback which is great for the sport and industry.

If ROAR and IFMAR are going to allow the Sanyo cell than hopefully it will have the robustness and longevity that the GP cells have displayed over the past 1.5yrs.

This quality is the major reason in my opinion behind the resurgence of electric racing, especially 12th scale. The true battery war to me seems to be when you have to buy 10packs throughout the indoor carpet season (Sept.-March) in order to stay competitive because the packs deminish so quickly.

GP along with a slew of great matchers such as SMC, Hurricane and others have given us a cost effective and thus more enjoyable way to race and i hope that other battery manufactuers aren't allowed to mess this up with lower quality cells that promise better performance for the initial 5-10 charges and then die off rather drastically.

Now if i can get the chipping and putting good enough to compete with Paul Lemieux then my golfing summer will be great! Barry how much would you charge me for a few quick lessons?
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Old 04-11-2004, 08:12 PM   #7462
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Hey Dave, did you run at NIROCC? I'm almost positive you did...

I hope you're right about 1/12th scale growing again, I just got back into RC after leaving it when NIROCC shut down. I'm having fun with TCs but I would love to get back to 1/12th scale. Now we just need someone locally to run it regularly so people will be willing to make the investment in a 1/12th scale car.
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Old 04-11-2004, 11:03 PM   #7463
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Default O-rings on steering linkage?

Quote:
I ran my new Rev.4 yesterday at RSJ and with some tips from Jucha regarding the center shock and the addition of some o-rings to take slop out of the steering linkage it was the most awesome 12th scale car i have run yet! Boy do i wish i had this car a month ago.
How did you use the O-rings? I have had issues with steering slop on my car and have thought about slipping o-rings over the ball studs on the steering links to tighten it up - is that what you are talking about??

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2004, 01:40 AM   #7464
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I'm struggling to understand how you are dumping in 1/12th scale mod

I'm not a top contender at the UK National level, but compete in the series. Running anything from a 12x2 down to a 10x1 I don't dump. Sure you go soft towards the end if you jam in the beginning, but part of the craft of 1/12th scale is to time the drive to suit the demands of the race.

Perhaps you are running outdoors and require more "go".. ?
In the UK we race indoors on carpet and typically my MMPR is between 36 (10x1) to 40 (12x2). If you are trying to pull 45+ then duration may be aproblem, but them you aren't getting best efficiancy from your motors. They sould also realistically be set between 12-18 degrees advance, more than that then they are being overrevved.
My 1p's worth, HTH
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:41 AM   #7465
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darnold
Quote:
This quality is the major reason in my opinion behind the resurgence of electric racing, especially 12th scale. The true battery war to me seems to be when you have to buy 10packs throughout the indoor carpet season (Sept.-March) in order to stay competitive because the packs deminish so quickly.
I would agree-I ran my same two packs at 04 Nats two weeks ago that I ran at the 03 US Indoor Champs. If taken care of-these cells perform at a very high level and for a long time.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:46 AM   #7466
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One more update..

I changed my servo from being angled to being flat on the chassis and man... it made a huge difference!

The car is much less twitchy and more consistent...
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:49 AM   #7467
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
One more update..

I changed my servo from being angled to being flat on the chassis and man... it made a huge difference!

The car is much less twitchy and more consistent...
Its amazing isnt it? WHo would think a change that seems to make so little difference to the eye would be so dramatic!!
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:33 AM   #7468
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It is amazing... I had so much fun with the car.. can't wait for this weekend!

Clint
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Old 04-12-2004, 12:31 PM   #7469
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TRACERRACING

running with a rec-pk and 11x2 with 5 deg adv with soft springs, i don't dump.

if i go to a 10X2 with same settings and take it easier on the throttle i still don't dump

when i have tried 9's it is too close for comfort

DARNOLD

i started with the second gen GPs and haven't had the luck you have when it comes to the runtime not fading.

i got 6 pks of the new GPs yel/green cells from Fukuyama and they were killer and consistent in the runtime department.

quality is good but consistency between cells is poor. when i see cells rated from 390 sec to 435 sec in stores. then see some drivers with 450+ sec freak cells and these were all from the same matcher.

Avg Voltage...don't even want to go there

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-12-2004 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 04-12-2004, 12:48 PM   #7470
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So are you saying you like your new packs or no.
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