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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-08-2004, 01:08 PM   #7426
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
I am also building another Rev3 for my wife
Sweet!
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:15 PM   #7427
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Ok, stupid question time:

How do you set the camber on the old skool front end?

Here is my setup:

Front:
0deg toe out
Jaco Purple
stock spring
1 shim under front arm
Not sure about ride height
I have the angled alloy servo mounts(came on the car)

not sure about tube oil - got the car used...

Rear:
Jaco Pink
Orange side Spring
Black center spring
Not sure about oil
Not sure about ride height
Proto Speed 12 body
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:19 PM   #7428
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She said she wanted to drive, and she tried driving my XXX-T and had a hard time.. so I figured that I would set her up a very very mild stock 1/12th scale and let her learn to drive without jumps...

plus, parts are cheaper! lol

Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Sweet!
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:28 PM   #7429
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
Ok, stupid question time:

How do you set the camber on the old skool front end?

Here is my setup:

Front:
0deg toe out
Jaco Purple
stock spring
1 shim under front arm
Not sure about ride height
I have the angled alloy servo mounts(came on the car)

not sure about tube oil - got the car used...

Rear:
Jaco Pink
Orange side Spring
Black center spring
Not sure about oil
Not sure about ride height
Proto Speed 12 body
Hey-if you like it-dont change it. Cannot realy comment on it for several reasons, but I can tell you when the damper tubes start to get dry-the car wil start to feel inconsistent.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:31 PM   #7430
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Right now, I am learning all I can.. what I think is good may not be until I try something different..

I am going to be changing stuff to see how the car reacts and your help is welcomed.

I know off-road setups, but this all new to me... That's why I asked how to set the camber on the old front end.. I don't know how...

thanks Ray!

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Hey-if you like it-dont change it. Cannot realy comment on it for several reasons, but I can tell you when the damper tubes start to get dry-the car wil start to feel inconsistent.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:40 PM   #7431
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Default Boring solution....

camber is adjusted with pieces of paper!! YUp-thats it. I cut thin strips from cardstock, header cards and writing paper so I have different thicknesses.

Its a laborious and BORING process of putting paper in and putting suspenion back on and putting wheels back on...... WHats more imprtant than camber in lower bite is front axle heights. With the axle out of car and car on a surface plate. measure froom level surface and front axles should be the same height.

Basically-I try to be within a 32nd and thats good enough. But more than a 1/16th and your car will tweak out funny.

So if you have a choice of being equal on axle height, but off on camber-I'd do that. But with enough patience you can get both camber and axle height VERY close.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:41 PM   #7432
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Thanks again.. I will check this stuff out tonight after my honey dos!

LOL
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:53 PM   #7433
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Default 1/12 Scale tire wear

Last night during a practice session, after 4 battery packs my rear tires wore .045/.055 and my front tires wore .010. This is pretty much the way it has been since I changed from a Parma Speed 8 body to the Protoform Ascari body. With the Parma Speed 8 body my tires seemed to wear more evenly front to back.

The question is, is it the body or some unforseen thing? Has anyone else seen this? Can the greater downforce in back, of the Ascari body actual wear tires like this?

Dazed and Confused in Cleveland, Ohio!
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:56 PM   #7434
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Clint-heres a pic that shows the pieces of paper used. Sometimes you have to raise one block a lot to get axle heights equal. Also remember to think a few steps ahead-like that adding camber also raises that sides axle up a bit.

Ray
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File Type: jpg rev2003.jpg (62.1 KB, 169 views)
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:00 PM   #7435
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Thanks Ray.. that helps!

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Clint-heres a pic that shows the pieces of paper used. Sometimes you have to raise one block a lot to get axle heights equal. Also remember to think a few steps ahead-like that adding camber also raises that sides axle up a bit.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:05 PM   #7436
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Always glad to help. The great ting about that shot is I no longer own that chassis, that Receiver, the ESC Quit working......Old pic!!

I have a bunch of new/used Rev3 parts if you need some to build your wifes car with. Its on the swap and sells.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 02:07 PM   #7437
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I bought her a brand new Rev3 the week before the 4 came out.. I just need time to get it built.. if you know of a cheap servo let me know.. I need one for her car...

thanks again..
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Old 04-08-2004, 05:23 PM   #7438
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Hey guys, clint and I just created a new board where you can banter back and forth about pan cars in general and the US Pan Car Championships in particular:

http://www.fishermenstudios.com/forum/
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Old 04-08-2004, 06:50 PM   #7439
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Clint-heres a pic that shows the pieces of paper used. Sometimes you have to raise one block a lot to get axle heights equal. Also remember to think a few steps ahead-like that adding camber also raises that sides axle up a bit.

Ray
Ray, 2 questions for you...1)Who makes the cool blues supports in your front arms? 2)What parts on the front end are inconsistant enuff to make the axles unequal heights? Are the steering block or arms out of tolerance ?
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Old 04-09-2004, 01:09 AM   #7440
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Default spring steel t plate??

i just picked up a silva spring steel t plate....a couple of questions...
the one i got is adjustable for oval(rear steer) is it ok i dont run oval......but i does have a straight setting....
my other question is where the heck do i put my tweak screws or do i put them???
i have a reflex 12....if anyone knows any tricks about this car also....enlighten me!
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