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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-07-2004, 07:11 AM   #7411
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thanks, it was a quick job but it turned out ok..
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Old 04-07-2004, 07:56 AM   #7412
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Default Re: Thanks Adam Hartzell

Quote:
Originally posted by maximum
Can anybody recommend a good handling body for a 12th scale Rev3 using 4-cells and mod motor for an asphalt track? Thank you in advance.
What Caveman said and the Protoform Speed 8 too. I've found the Protoform Speed 8 to be very good on large flowing carpet tracks and outdoor asphalt. It doesn't seem to have the steering or response for indoor tight carpet like the Speed 12 or the Parma Speed 8. Anyone else found the same thing?

BTW- for those of you that don't want to get your 12th scale chassis scratched on asphalt, just buy some AE chassis protector sheets. It's thick enough to protect it but thin enough not to affect the car much. I use it on my sedan as well. On the ends where it tends to get peeled back or scratched the worst, I always score it and peel the torn part off about an inch back then use the excess from the sheet to replace that small area. If you do that, then the main part will last all season and the scraps will keep the ends new just as long!
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Old 04-07-2004, 08:23 AM   #7413
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come down to florida we run our cars on carpet and asphalt! pluss they do sell new in the bag replacement chassis! come on guys a couple scratches aint crap run the dand things, thats what they are for!
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:32 AM   #7414
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Well.. I just got back from a lunch time practice session

Anyway, awhile back I had a problem with my Rev3 pulling really hard to the left upon hard acceleration... well, today I figured out why... the diff hub bearings were blowing out as one of them exploded today.. after I replaced them the car tracks very straight..

Man I love driving this car...
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Old 04-07-2004, 02:17 PM   #7415
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The old skool front end that comes with the Rev3, what rate are the springs?

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2004, 02:26 PM   #7416
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cinttreadway-do you have a pair of micrometers? if yes-measure the diameter of the coils and that will tell you. I am afraid I am not 100% sure if kits come with 0.020 or 0.022" front springs in the Rev 3 kit. Also-measure the middle coils-not at top or bttom of spring as they are sometimes not round there.

Ray
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Old 04-07-2004, 02:31 PM   #7417
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Thanks Ray, I do have some calipers.. need a battery for them though

What spur are most of you using, 96 or 100(64p)?

Today was the second time I got to drive my car and I REALLY, REALLY enjoyed it.. Probably going to race it this weekend for the first time...
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:49 AM   #7418
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I had another practice session @ lunch today. I felt much better than yesterday...

Rev3/4 owners.. what wieght fluid are you running in your dampner tubes?

For club races, what tire diameter do most of you run?

Thanks, I can't wait for this weekend's race... gonna be fun!
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:53 AM   #7419
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
I had another practice session @ lunch today. I felt much better than yesterday...

Rev3/4 owners.. what wieght fluid are you running in your dampner tubes?

For club races, what tire diameter do most of you run?

Thanks, I can't wait for this weekend's race... gonna be fun!

Rev3-Medium Hydra Fluid

Rev4-Hvy Hydra fluid to 10,000 OFNA silicone.
ON the Rev3 for club racing-rears 1.90" rears and 1.85" fronts.

Get all the life out of your tires in Club racing and the Rev 3 likes bigger tires when grips low anyways. Its not only easier to drive-faster too. Havent run the Rev4 on lower grip yet, but I assume the same tire sizes will be fine.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:57 AM   #7420
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Thanks Ray. If I cannot get Med Hydra fluid, what's the next best alternative?

Also. on med traction tracks, what is better for the rear: pink or grey?

Thanks again!
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:40 PM   #7421
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
Thanks Ray. If I cannot get Med Hydra fluid, what's the next best alternative?

Also. on med traction tracks, what is better for the rear: pink or grey?

Thanks again!
Sorry-I dont know about the diff lube. Maybe experiment with diff oil for 1/8th scale offroad diffs.

As far as tires, I think TRC Grey or Jaco White or Pink are your best choices for low grip.
Ride height can play a role too. I run quite high at club races-like 5.5mm front and 4.5mm rear under the pod. Its only at big races that I drop car down to 3mm.

Remember-its not just how good the car feels the first few laps thats important in 12th scale-but how well it handles the whole 8-minutes. A little push up front may be faster than WAY loose at end of race.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:45 PM   #7422
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Default tube lube

tube lube

10,000 will be way to thick, stick with 5,000 or 7,000. personally I like to use 5,000.
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:47 PM   #7423
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thanks Ray!

Today, the car felt good the whole 8 minutes... I am just now starting to experiment with the car and I am also building another Rev3 for my wife so I am trying to get some ideas...

Thanks again guys(Ray)!
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:47 PM   #7424
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Default Re: tube lube

Thanks Fike!

Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
tube lube

10,000 will be way to thick, stick with 5,000 or 7,000. personally I like to use 5,000.
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:04 PM   #7425
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
thanks Ray!

Today, the car felt good the whole 8 minutes... I am just now starting to experiment with the car and I am also building another Rev3 for my wife so I am trying to get some ideas...

Thanks again guys(Ray)!
Well-this is just my opnion, but herean easy to drive set-up for anyne running 12th for the firsttime or just wants an easy to drive 12th scale.

Rev3 standard set-up.

0 toe out
0 shim under front arms for 2 caster.
0.022 front spring
1.5 camber
Servo flat on chassis. Steering linkages forward a tad on servo saver and in middle hole so links are horizontal.
Jaco or TRC Purple tires.
5mm ride height under front axle.

Medium Hydra in tubes, Blue side springs-sde sprins just touching, no-preload.
Black Wolfe or AE Copper center spring w/ 60 to 80 wt oil.Chassis and pod level.

Rear axle at max width for ROAR (6.77" I think).
TRC Grey or Jaco White, CRC White or pink.
4mm ride height under back of pod.
PArma Speed 8 body.

Thats about it. This is my default set-up when get lost. Theres plenty of fast set-ups fr this car-but this ones easy to drive.

Ray
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