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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-15-2004, 06:30 PM   #7201
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Quote:
Originally posted by clinttredway
I thought about getting a CRC but a friend here talked me into getting a Speed Merchant. As far as I can tell they are basically the same car. Especially if I run the new style front end.

It's all about preference anyway..

Clint
actually after seeing the new REV4 I know I should of taken a picture. it's got some intersting ideas. looking at an old carpet knife chassis right now and where do I start dremeling I know frank don't like tape but I don't mind it on my six pack. it's all part of the game. and yes preference does make a difference and I prefer CRC because I don't drive smooth enough in mod to run a link car.
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:09 PM   #7202
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Default Re: Re: Front tire chatter

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
I THINK your front springs have given out. Change them and see if It goes away. It seems they are bottoming out. Are you using purples on carpet? .018 or .020 springs? You can also try something on the king pins to act as a shock abosorber.

Please let us know what it was
David Root
Springs could be it! I haven't changed those. I do lub the kingpin though. I'll start with springs them maybe a thicker lube on the king pin.

No on the purple tires. Our carpet does not have good traction at all. Green seems to work the best. I've had Pink work pretty good in the front.

take care
john
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:00 PM   #7203
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Robert you and skeeno going to Ktown this weekend?

EA
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:02 PM   #7204
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
James,
I haven't bailed on you. I don't know what is up with my website. I need to contact the host and see what is going on. Keep in mind that these kits are made to order and the 7th was just last week. Your kit will ship tomorrow and it will be worth the short wait.

D.P.
Doug thanks... I just sent you a email... it went through this time... darn puters
I just tried your web page and its still down unless I have the wrong address...
http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
Right?
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:14 PM   #7205
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
Doug thanks... I just sent you a email... it went through this time... darn puters
I just tried your web page and its still down unless I have the wrong address...
http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
Right?
You have the right address because I clicked the link and it works.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:19 PM   #7206
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I am thinking of trying a t-bar car though.. if my LHS still has a used L3 I will get it and get the Q12 conversion for it and try it as well...
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Old 03-16-2004, 07:02 AM   #7207
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Default Re: visualize whirrled peas

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
David-
Can you explain this in more detail? I've already cut my Rev 3 in half to change the battery direction but i'm afraid if I don't get the electrons whirrling around right the car will run backwards.
O'D

Oh, I didn't want to force people to take drastic actions like that. You could have just bought another car. T-plate cars have another advantage related to this topic that no one has mentioned. It has to do with that piece of wire that connects the batteries from one side of the t-plate to the other. The link cars don't have this piece of wire. Anyway, that wire is an antenna that is operating with incredible current flow. That antenna is parallel to the racing surface and the direction of the flow sets up a force vector for the field generated in the direction of the carpet. Viola, more force on the tires, therefore, more traction. It is important to note that this wire must be at least 1.5 inches long to work. One could say that the link cars also have the wire between the batteries that span the width of the car, but they are not at least 1/5 inches long. Since they are split into many small sections that are stagered by the length of the battery, the distribution of the downforce from the field is not balanced within the wheel base or the track of the car. How about that

Last edited by davidl; 03-16-2004 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 03-16-2004, 07:46 AM   #7208
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Default Conversions

Im looking for a 4 cell conversion for my 12L3 was looking into the following:-

* IRS Rugrat
* CRC T-Fource

I have been hearing about the PRC Quad 12 but cant find any information about it hopefully some one can provide me some info even some pics. I recently sold my Yoke YRX i want something equally the same performance wise, will be mostly used outdoors. Worst comes to worst ill get a Tech Racing Slits
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:19 AM   #7209
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Default Re: visualize whirrled peas

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
David-
Can you explain this in more detail? I've already cut my Rev 3 in half to change the battery direction but i'm afraid if I don't get the electrons whirrling around right the car will run backwards.
O'D
Uh, dude? He's yanking your chain.

but then....

If you can get the orientation of the batteries and the grain direction on the carbon fiber laid properly, then you can take advantage of the "dark matter" that is the cause for the universe to be expanding at a faster rate rather then slowing down. This entropic effect will make your car actually accelerate through the corner as you begin to apply an angular acceleration during a turn. Bottom line is that if you re - build, or have a custom plate made (I'll charge you $400) you will cut seconds off your lap time.

I also have a bridge to sell....

(Sorry, but I can't resist )
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:24 AM   #7210
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Default Re: Re: visualize whirrled peas

Quote:
Originally posted by sands
Uh, dude? He's yanking your chain.

but then....

If you can get the orientation of the batteries and the grain direction on the carbon fiber laid properly, then you can take advantage of the "dark matter" that is the cause for the universe to be expanding at a faster rate rather then slowing down. This entropic effect will make your car actually accelerate through the corner as you begin to apply an angular acceleration during a turn. Bottom line is that if you re - build, or have a custom plate made (I'll charge you $400) you will cut seconds off your lap time.

I also have a bridge to sell....

(Sorry, but I can't resist )
Oh come on-your so full of cr@p-everyone knows blue graphite is faster than black!!
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:58 AM   #7211
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http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
otto man i am a team driver for doug powell aswell if you cant get in contact with adam or doug i can reach him for you.

his cnc milling machined flipped out on him and had some calibration issues he has had it corrected and a fresh of the grill quad 12 is on the way for your driving pleasure.

ottoman out of all the companies out there not just because i drive for doug he is probably one of if not thee most trustworthy person(company) in the buisness.

once you have his car will be a quad 12 driver for life just wish a lot more people would see the light. this car is the bomb.
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Old 03-16-2004, 09:03 AM   #7212
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fuk wrx! i like writing that fuk wrx here is the link for prchttp://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
if you have a problem contacting doug pm me with you contact numbers and i will contact him personally for you and have him call you. i am one of his drivers and i am here to help.

thanks; Hector
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Old 03-16-2004, 09:20 AM   #7213
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Default Re: Re: Re: visualize whirrled peas

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Oh come on-your so full of cr@p-everyone knows blue graphite is faster than black!!
No! Black Rules!
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:17 AM   #7214
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Was trying to read this thread from page 1 and found something that is confusing me.

Is caster, and reactive caster the same thing? or are they opposites.

Caster is when the top of the kingpin lean towards the rear of the car, right?

Does reactive Caster mean the the top of the kingpin leans towards the front?

also, How far should i thread the tweak screws(evenly) into the T-Plate before I even start checking the tweak? I am afraid that they are not in far enough....

Last edited by Ortiz; 03-16-2004 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 03-16-2004, 11:07 AM   #7215
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Default Caster

Caster is having the upper arm, ball joint or king pin behind the lower. As you turn your wheels the camber changes more as your caster increases. This can help you in corners keep the front tires flat on the track for best traction.

Reactive caster makes the caster change more as the suspension is compressed. If you have one washer in front and one in back of the upper arm mount your caster is 4 to 2 dagrees. 4 when it is sitting still and 2 when fully compressed. That is why the reactive caster arm mount is on an angle. When you turn, the car transfers weight to the outside wheel which compresses the spring and this decreases caster. This helps in the turn so your tire bites in better. It makes the front end more agressive.

More caster makes it easier to drive straight, Less makes it corner better. With Reactive caster you get the best of both.

Tweak screws should touch the chasis on both sides with almost no preload. If you have to turn one in 1/8 turn, you would have to turn the other one out 1/8.

David Root

Last edited by David Root; 03-16-2004 at 11:14 AM.
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