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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-15-2004, 11:50 AM   #7186
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I agree... this race should be on Carpet...

Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
DavidL- That actually explains alot. It should at least be worth a lap maybe two on the track, no? lol.

My $.02 on the pan car champs... carpet track... Nice, new clean carpet track not in the middle of no where.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:50 AM   #7187
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Ian-I'll change those front springs!! I might go buy a Rev4 conversion tonight or tomorrow. I have to buy a KO 302 RX though and that blows my budget for the week.

Ray
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:00 PM   #7188
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Those receivers are ridiculously expensive.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:02 PM   #7189
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Quote:
Originally posted by nashrcracer
well since I can't get one for free I'll take my money and spend it on Frank since I have meet him have no problems with my Carpet Knife it's just 2 year old and worn out and I bought it used! Frank's a cool guy as him about the Gas nats he went to. as for the rev4 I don't know if I could get parts for it. I know I gave EA a part or too and setup help so that he could beat me. and he used my fantom dyno too note to self quit being so nice

ya Eric you forgot to thank your dyno sponsor and where are my caster blocks!
I gotcha Robert, just givin' ya a little old fashioned ribbing. Will we see you at the Nash-EEE-O-nahls next week?
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:26 PM   #7190
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Thanks Nash!!! you da man...

Frank
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:48 PM   #7191
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A paid for Carpet Knife is still a better value then a free Speedmerchant!!
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:04 PM   #7192
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Default Front tire chatter

Quick question on front tire chatter. I got to watch my sons car last weekend. Kinda cool because we are always in the same races. Anyway, at about the 5 or 6 minute mark his front tires would start chattering just alittle in the corners. I switched it to a little harder tire and tried a little more camber. Helped some but still noticed it toward the end of the race.

Any suggestion?

Oh yea, it's a CRC carpet knife.

take care
john
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:15 PM   #7193
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Last edited by ottoman; 03-15-2004 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:48 PM   #7194
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
Anyone Know Doug Powell of "Powell Racing Componets" ? I ordered (and paid for) a Quad 12 conversion kit from Doug on the 7th and I havent seen it yet. I understand it hasnt been that long but when I emailed Doug to check on it I keep getting a error saying his address cant be found... I went to his web page but that doesnt seem to exist anymore either. Anyone have a phone number I can try?
Thanks
I talked to Doug last night and he said that he was having problems with his machining equipment and is running a little behind. Try to send him another email at quad12@comcast.net If that dosen't work email me with your info and I will call him asap. My email is adamhartzell@sbcglobal.net Don't send me a pm as I never check those.
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:49 PM   #7195
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I just tried the PRC web site and that is working fine.
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Old 03-15-2004, 05:55 PM   #7196
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
Anyone Know Doug Powell of "Powell Racing Componets" ? I ordered (and paid for) a Quad 12 conversion kit from Doug on the 7th and I havent seen it yet. I understand it hasnt been that long but when I emailed Doug to check on it I keep getting a error saying his address cant be found... I went to his web page but that doesnt seem to exist anymore either. Anyone have a phone number I can try?
Thanks
James,
I haven't bailed on you. I don't know what is up with my website. I need to contact the host and see what is going on. Keep in mind that these kits are made to order and the 7th was just last week. Your kit will ship tomorrow and it will be worth the short wait.

D.P.
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:06 PM   #7197
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Default Re: Front tire chatter

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Quick question on front tire chatter. I got to watch my sons car last weekend. Kinda cool because we are always in the same races. Anyway, at about the 5 or 6 minute mark his front tires would start chattering just alittle in the corners. I switched it to a little harder tire and tried a little more camber. Helped some but still noticed it toward the end of the race.

Any suggestion?

Oh yea, it's a CRC carpet knife.

take care
john
I THINK your front springs have given out. Change them and see if It goes away. It seems they are bottoming out. Are you using purples on carpet? .018 or .020 springs? You can also try something on the king pins to act as a shock abosorber.

Please let us know what it was
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:20 PM   #7198
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I thought about getting a CRC but a friend here talked me into getting a Speed Merchant. As far as I can tell they are basically the same car. Especially if I run the new style front end.

It's all about preference anyway..

Clint
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:25 PM   #7199
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frank you the man!

as for the chatter I agree the springs give out after a month or two of week to week racing. you could try the wolf springs but I think they put too much preload, meaning you are not using the full compression of the spring. some people live and die by wolf I just throw another $2 into the front end and call it regular maintance. the other thing is as was said putting a little lube on the front kinpins making sure the pivot ball is smooth. don't know what "lube" so I run them dry but then I never made the "A" at cleveland.

cypress would love to go to the Roar nats but I save my money for the real race in cleveland, the US indoor champs. I would rather lose to 80 other mod drivers then beat 80 stock drivers.
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:27 PM   #7200
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Default visualize whirrled peas

Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
Storm - it has to do with the direction of travel of the electrons through the wires around the chassis. The electrons set up a field during movement through a conductor that places small forces on the chassis just like the rotating mass of the armature. This creates a gyriscopic effect that assists the chassis in rotation after the wheels have made that intial force setting up the roll experienced in each corner. This force field increases the bite of the tires because it is in the direction towards the track surface .............. awwwwww heeeeeck. Just believe me
David-
Can you explain this in more detail? I've already cut my Rev 3 in half to change the battery direction but i'm afraid if I don't get the electrons whirrling around right the car will run backwards.
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