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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-14-2004, 08:45 PM   #7171
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Cool

Quote:
It (refering to battery layout) won Cleveland and Snowbirds but its no good?
It's NOT the car ,,IT'S the DRIVER...
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Old 03-14-2004, 09:26 PM   #7172
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Originally posted by RC4SALE
It's NOT the car ,,IT'S the DRIVER...
That ain't no lie. no damper tubes, making the damper disk do double duty and not allowing the shock to do it's job alone so that when you change the weight of the oil you don't have to worry that the disk lube is to thick. A front end that changes camber and caster as you rotate the hinge pins. Noticed they changed that on the new 12L4 Every buddy and their uncle going to the length wise battery slots. This is actually done to narrow up the weight and roll center as you can move the batteries closer to the t-plate and also move them foward or back according to traction. They added stupid battery trays to make that happen adding unneeded weight. I'll stick with my CRC this year.
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:26 AM   #7173
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CAN SOMEONE HELP ME!?

Hey im looking to buy a decent 1/12th for the winter as its too cold outside and i dont want to ruin my serpent 710 lol! Do any of you guys have one for sale or know of anywhere i can get a good competitive one from?

Thanks

>MRME<

P.S. Im from the UK
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:23 AM   #7174
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
The US Pan Car Championships has been awarded to Hobbytown USA in San Antonio TX. Here is a pic of the track. How does April sound for you guys as to when to hold the race?:

http://webmail.liberty.edu/exchange/...5-Store018.jpg

TOO SOON!

You need to give yourself some time to promote, sell tickets, get sponsorships and awards lined up and (most important) give the drivers a chance to fit it into their schedule if you convince them they should attend. Also school. School isn't out yet for the younger set. Don't you care about them? And there are other things about scheduling a race so close to when you announce it.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:24 AM   #7175
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Originally posted by davidl
TOO SOON!

You need to give yourself some time to promote, sell tickets, get sponsorships and awards lined up and (most important) give the drivers a chance to fit it into their schedule if you convince them they should attend. Also school. School isn't out yet for the younger set. Don't you care about them? And there are other things about scheduling a race so close to when you announce it.
Don't worry, man, the race is scheduled for 2005 so we got plenty of time
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:29 AM   #7176
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Originally posted by stormperson
Although I havent driven a t-bar car... Does it really matter the way the batts are configured? Since two batteries side by side are the same widthy as a battery is long, so it equals out no? And if you were really concerned about the batteries being too far away from center, then dont buy a t-bar car....
Storm - it has to do with the direction of travel of the electrons through the wires around the chassis. The electrons set up a field during movement through a conductor that places small forces on the chassis just like the rotating mass of the armature. This creates a gyriscopic effect that assists the chassis in rotation after the wheels have made that intial force setting up the roll experienced in each corner. This force field increases the bite of the tires because it is in the direction towards the track surface .............. awwwwww heeeeeck. Just believe me
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:35 AM   #7177
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Default Assoc. 12L4 battery placement,round two

Didn't mean to start a war, sorry guys......

Its my understanding that the batteries are laid fore/aft because it places the most weight inward and rearward. This allows the car to change from side to side quicker because the weight is closer to the center.

It also places more of the battery mass towards the rear.

This all has to do with the battery shape. If you look at the end of an individual cell most of the mass is located towards the centerline, and as you move outward, there is less and less mass. This means when you place the cells for/aft, it moves the battery mass inward. I believe this is one reason why most cars are laided out for/aft.

If you look at the side of the cells, the outline of the cell would form a rectangle shape. This shape places more mass towards the ends of the shape than a circle does. This places more of the cells mass towards the rear than a circle (or sideways placement) does. The fore/aft configuration facilitates more adjustablity of weight than a sideways configuration.

I personallly think that the Assoc. 12L3 is a great car!!! I own no less than: (3) L3's, (1) 12LW, and a never-been-run early version12L!

There a GREAT car and many of the design features are hard to beat, even after 10 years or so of production.

In my opinion (and everyone has one and is entitled to it!) I think it is a design error not to lay the batteries fore and aft on Associateds new car. It would take about ten minutes for a programer to change the program on the machine that cuts out the chassis......

Last edited by Graphitedust; 03-15-2004 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:51 AM   #7178
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Originally posted by nashrcracer
I'm not saying that I should of not wrecked. But it's hard to do when you're playing dodge ball in the main! I guess I should go and drive oval. From what you tell me you have to dodge the other drivers each time they try to take you out each lap EA there is always next time. and as for your second 12th scale race, I guess being a national Oval champ and being sponsored by Speedmerchant for 12th scale onroad and Shumacher for Touring car someone must think your a good driver. we'll see about the laps next time. guess I'll have to go out and buy a new CRC Carpet Knife
Or you could get a new Rev. 4!!
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:24 AM   #7179
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
Storm - it has to do with the direction of travel of the electrons through the wires around the chassis. The electrons set up a field during movement through a conductor that places small forces on the chassis just like the rotating mass of the armature. This creates a gyriscopic effect that assists the chassis in rotation after the wheels have made that intial force setting up the roll experienced in each corner. This force field increases the bite of the tires because it is in the direction towards the track surface .............. awwwwww heeeeeck. Just believe me
come on,i hope your not serious.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:30 AM   #7180
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Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Or you could get a new Rev. 4!!
Ian,

What-up dude? Sorry to see you were suckin' it up w/ me last night!! Feel bad for ya!!

Anyhooooooo-I rebuilt my Rev3 this morning at work

BLue sides, Black center, Med Hydra in tubes, 4º caster (blocks + 2º shim), 0.020" spring. Going to run it raked up a touch with TRC Tab fronts and TRC Grey rears. Probably 4mm front and 3.5mm rear ride height. Rear width MAx ROAR.

ANy other ideas?

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:36 AM   #7181
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
TOO SOON!

You need to give yourself some time to promote, sell tickets, get sponsorships and awards lined up and (most important) give the drivers a chance to fit it into their schedule if you convince them they should attend. Also school. School isn't out yet for the younger set. Don't you care about them? And there are other things about scheduling a race so close to when you announce it.
I am open to suggestions man! If you dont like April, when do you recommend?
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:33 AM   #7182
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DavidL- That actually explains alot. It should at least be worth a lap maybe two on the track, no? lol.

My $.02 on the pan car champs... carpet track... Nice, new clean carpet track not in the middle of no where.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:46 AM   #7183
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Originally posted by rayhuang
Ian,

What-up dude? Sorry to see you were suckin' it up w/ me last night!! Feel bad for ya!!

Anyhooooooo-I rebuilt my Rev3 this morning at work

BLue sides, Black center, Med Hydra in tubes, 4º caster (blocks + 2º shim), 0.020" spring. Going to run it raked up a touch with TRC Tab fronts and TRC Grey rears. Probably 4mm front and 3.5mm rear ride height. Rear width MAx ROAR.

ANy other ideas?

Thanks,
Ray
Ahhh, the evil of Qual points!! Car was great, but PT issues left me at the bottom after the resort, and the rest is history.

As far as set-up, scrap the .020 front springs and go with .022's. 0.020 make the car cut in too hard, and then compress giving a pretty violent over rotation. This Sunday you can take a spin with the Rev. 4. It was the best car I've ever driven, now if it just had some HP.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:49 AM   #7184
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Or you could get a new Rev. 4!!
well since I can't get one for free I'll take my money and spend it on Frank since I have meet him have no problems with my Carpet Knife it's just 2 year old and worn out and I bought it used! Frank's a cool guy as him about the Gas nats he went to. as for the rev4 I don't know if I could get parts for it. I know I gave EA a part or too and setup help so that he could beat me. and he used my fantom dyno too note to self quit being so nice

ya Eric you forgot to thank your dyno sponsor and where are my caster blocks!
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:50 AM   #7185
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
DavidL- That actually explains alot. It should at least be worth a lap maybe two on the track, no? lol.

My $.02 on the pan car champs... carpet track... Nice, new clean carpet track not in the middle of no where.
I get where youre coming from storm. The reason I chose San Antonio (which definitely has no shortage of things to do and places to go) is partly because I was looking for a track (be it indoors or out) that would be big enough to hold both 1/10 and 1/12 racing in both stock and modified classes. I almost took Mike's Hobby Shop in Carrolton (although they are the back up plan should something happen to Hobbytown San Antonio) but the big problem was it wasnt big enough for there to be good quality racing for the Pro10 cars. Remember, this isnt just about the 12th scales, this is about pan cars in general. Oh BTW here are teh complete rule deviations (ROAR rules will be used except where noted):

I. Stock classes

a. Epic Binary 2 or any other 4 magnet stock motors are NOT ALLOWED

II. 19T classes

a. All ROAR or NORRCA approved motors will be allowed

III. 4 Cell 19T GT1 (conditional class)

a. Approved Bodies (190 or 200mm depending on chassis)

i. Protoform/Pro-Line

1. Corvette C5R

2. Mercedes CLK GTR

3. TVR Speed 6

4. F360 Modena

5. FX

6. Porsche 911 GTR

7. Lamborghini Gallardo

8. Aston Martin Vanquish

9. Ford GT40

ii. HPI

1. Saleen S7R

2. Lamborghini Murcielago

3. Dodge Viper GTS-R (both versions)

4. Lotus Elise 2000

5. Lotus Sport Elise

6. Toyota MR-S GT

7. Toyota Supra GT

8. Acura NSX

9. Nissan 350Z

10. Lamborghini Diablo GTR

11. Nissan Skyline GTR

12. Chevrolet Corvette

13. Saleen Mustang

iii. Tamiya

1. All bodies approved for the GT1 and GT2 classes for the TCS

2. Toyota GT1 TS020

3. Porsche 911 GT1

IV. Pro10 6 cell stock and mod

a. Approved Bodies

i. Associated

1. Nissan GTP Coupe

2. Jaguar XJR-16

3. ’92 Nissan GTP

ii. Bolink

1. R&S MKIII WSC Sport

iii. Dahms

1. Splice WSC (Spice)

2. Lowla ST10 and LT10 and GT/LT10 (Lola)

iv. Hot Bodies

1. Toyota GT1 TS020

v. McAllister

1. Jaguar GTP

2. Nissan NPT90 GTP

3. Toyota GTP

vi. Protoform

1. Nissan P35

2. Peugeot 905B

vii. PSE

1. Mazda GTP

V. Pro12 4 cell stock and modified on road

a. Approved Bodies

i. Associated

1. Jaguar Group C

2. TOJ Sports

3. Nissan GTP-90

ii. CEFX

1. C-LMP 900

2. C-LMP 675

iii. Dahms

1. Lowla LT-12

iv. Hot Bodies

1. Diablo GTP

2. Ferrari WSC

3. 1/12 Toyota GT1

v. Parma

1. Bentley EXP Speed 8

vi. Protoform

1. Bentley Speed 8 LMP

2. Speed 12 GTP

3. Ascari LMP

4. Nissan P35

vii. Trinity

1. T-310 LMP

2. EXP Speed 9

VI. Pro10 4 cell 19T and modified oval

a. All ROAR and NORRCA approved bodies are legal for this race

b. Also, all ARCOR legal 19T motors are allowed for this class ONLY

VII. Pro12 4 cell stock and modified oval

a. All ROAR and NORRCA approved bodies are legal for this race


VIII. Practice & Qualifying

a. On road

i. Each class will be split into two groups (Group A and Group B)

ii. The racers will draw numbers out of a hat (these numbers will help determine which qualifying group they will be in)

iii. There will be 2 90 minute practice sessions for each group.

1. The first session will be Pro10 followed by Pro12

a. 20 minutes for Pro10 (stock and mod), followed by a 5 minute changeover, then 20 minutes for Pro12 (stock and mod)

2. The groups will then switch places for the second practice session

3. The practice groups will be the same groups for the first round of qualifying

iv. There will be two 60 minute qualifying sessions (one for each group)

v. Each racer will get in as many laps as they can in their group’s qualifying session

vi. Each racer’s fastest 10 laps will be combined to calculate their overall time

vii. In case of ties the racer with the fastest single lap will be awarded the position

viii. Racers will then redraw for groups in the second round. (same rules apply)

ix. Process will be repeated for the third and final round.

x. THERE IS TO BE NO RACING DURING PRACTICE OR QUALIFYING!!!
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