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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 03-07-2004, 09:42 PM   #7036
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Hey Doug

what is that coming off the chassis cross brace? kind of looks like the crc uni tune???
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:47 PM   #7037
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Originally posted by davepull
Hey Doug

what is that coming off the chassis cross brace? kind of looks like the crc uni tune???
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:50 PM   #7038
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Originally posted by davepull
Hey Doug

what is that coming off the chassis cross brace? kind of looks like the crc uni tune???
You caught me. I'm testing a spring set up on the rear. Unlike the one you mentioned, I moved the springs out as far as possible for more leverage. The T-bar is able to float while the springs control the side to side movement and tweak. The car transitions very smoothly. It works great in stock.

**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
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Old 03-07-2004, 10:17 PM   #7039
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Originally posted by Brandon Melton
Does anyone here run a JR 3550 servo on a 12L3 with the servo mounted FLAT. The servo savers I have seen will rub the chassis, as the servo is thinner than some other brands. Just looking for a servo saver to use or a method of raising the servo without using alot of tape or gluing something to the bottom of it. What have some people done.

Could you use the stock servo horns, but turn them around backwards, so your using the verticle side of the horn to mount the servo? Drill the holes from the flat side, not the sloped side. There only 1.50 a set. Just a thought.....
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Old 03-08-2004, 08:10 AM   #7040
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Just got a new speedo for my reflex 12 (stock, 4 cell), Keyence Z Extreme V...A little overwhelming, any recommendations would be greatly appreciated...Thanks!!

-Neutral width?
-Min drive power?
-Min brake power?
-Neutral brake?
-Comp retarded?
-Driving frequency?
-Braking frequency?
-Neutral braking frequency?
-Power limit?

Thanks-again!! Steve.
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Old 03-08-2004, 08:54 AM   #7041
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Here is the Pro12 (12th scale onroad) body list:

V. Pro12 4 cell stock and modified on road
a. Approved Bodies
i. Associated
1. Jaguar Group C
2. TOJ Sports
3. Nissan GTP-90
ii. CEFX
1. C-LMP 900
2. C-LMP 675
iii. Dahms
1. Lowla LT-12
iv. Hot Bodies
1. Diablo GTP
2. Ferrari WSC
3. 1/12 Toyota GT1
v. Parma
1. Bentley EXP Speed 8
vi. Protoform
1. Bentley Speed 8 LMP
2. Speed 12 GTP
3. Ascari LMP
4. Nissan P35
vii. Trinity
1. T-310 LMP
2. EXP Speed 9

If there are any bodies I have forgotten, please note them here and I will add them to the list
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Old 03-08-2004, 10:26 AM   #7042
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Adam about the IRS Rugrat I run one and its a great carI would recomend it to anyone the is just smooth and stable Ive run the 12L and carpet knife and I would take the rugrat over them not because they are bad cars its just my preference I believe for me the car is smoother Ive got the complete rat from front to back including the spring steel T-bar med and Im waiting for my med hev now.For me the car is great
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Old 03-08-2004, 10:48 AM   #7043
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Without going into too much detail or upsetting anyone, lol....

I just want to say I got to run the new Speedmerchant Rev. 4 this weekend and ran faster than with my Rev. 3. I dont have any pics now, but keep on checking the speedmerchant website since I think they are updating it any day now. Until the nats, i think just conversion kits are going to be sold... dont quote me though. Big Boys Toys in Taunton, MA got 6 rev. 2/3 to rev 4 conversion kits in stock and I think all but one were sold out by the end of the day, although they might still have the last one left, I dont know the number off the top of my head, but they are in most track directories... There will also be conversion kits out for most other popular 1/12th scale cars within the next few weeks, and a complete kit right after the carpet nats.
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
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Old 03-08-2004, 11:18 AM   #7044
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stormperson-You lucky Dog!! I hope to see one or two run this weekend.

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Old 03-08-2004, 11:36 AM   #7045
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stormperson- What's the difference between the Rev. 4 and the Rev. 2/3?
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Old 03-08-2004, 12:06 PM   #7046
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Ray does the carpet you run on(at the gate) full of traction or loose
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Old 03-08-2004, 12:10 PM   #7047
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Originally posted by serpentracer1
Ray does the carpet you run on(at the gate) full of traction or loose
It starts a club race as medium grip and by days end at many club races-people start to pick-up wheels or even traction roll in the third qualifier and even worse in the Main.

When we change layouts every week like we have been all month-the traction starts low and ends up high at end of day. BUT-having said that-its NOTHING compared to the Snowbirds or Trackside's last two races. And also-when the pracrtice for the ROAR nats starts on Wednesday-by that night I bet the traction will be SUPER HIGH!! Its CRC Daytona Ozite-new this season.
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:42 PM   #7048
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Hi Ray,

Thanks for the nice plug on the new carpet... one quick correction...

older carpet = CRC Daytona
new stuff = CRC Fasttrak

The gate has the new Fasttrak.

Cya in a few weeks.

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Old 03-08-2004, 03:12 PM   #7049
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will inverting the shock on my CRC adversley affect handling? i wanted to ge my body lower so i switched the mounting postion.i also had to use a uni-link ball stud on the front of the shock to clear the battery
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Old 03-08-2004, 03:37 PM   #7050
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That will give the car more steering.
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