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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-03-2004, 11:25 AM   #7006
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Default HPI conversion kit

anyone tried the HPI conv for the 12L / Yok stlye cars?
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Old 03-03-2004, 11:34 AM   #7007
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got a link?
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Old 03-03-2004, 04:40 PM   #7008
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Cats do not like r/c cars.just an observation
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:13 PM   #7009
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taken from a post the first page:

Tires.. I ran purple fronts size 1.73 I ran pink rears size 1.90 I also used paragon for 15 mins on the tires wiped them off then applied coppertone 45 sun tan lotion until the heat before i was up then wiped dry and much as possible...
Hope this helps you guys
Mike Blackstock



I have to ask, what's the deal with Coppertone SPF 45 after the Paragon?
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:16 PM   #7010
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
DavidL and MikeD-some questions for you guys.

I ran a Rug Rat (first T-bar car in 3 or 4 years) and its so different than my Speedmerchant rev3's that I am a bit lost on set-ups. I am used to the quicness in steering feel and on-power / exit steering of the Rev3. What are some of the general changes to be made on the Rat for more steering in general? But-not making it edgy. I hate edgy feeling 12th scales.

Thanks,
Ray
Ray - It sounds like the Gate traction has been a little different lately... The following is where I would start on setup for stock:

Irs front end (10 degree reactive angle, all caster shims foward, .020 springs, 1.5 degrees camber, trinity red stuff lube on king pins), silva spring steel medium-stiff t-plate with 3 pod screws, silva center shock with 40 wt and blue associated spring, tweak screws and no springs on damper tubes, 10,000 Associated silicone in damper tubes, batteries in rear position, 3.5mm ride height, Jaco Grey rears (@ 1.85") and Jaco purple fronts (@ 1.71"), full front and rear compound. I run the servo flat on the chassis with mid-height ball studs on the steering blocks and kimbrough mid-size servo saver. Steering lock at about 4 foot turning circle.

The first changes I would try to the above setup are .075 t-bar and silver center spring. I like the steering of a lot of caster on low traction tracks. A lot of caster cause problems on high traction tracks. I agree with you on car feel - I try to make it steer as much as possible without getting edgy. I hit everything in sight if my car is too aggressive.
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:20 PM   #7011
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Mike-thats a lot of info to process-hahaha!! Thanks!! See ya in a few weeks!!

Ray
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Old 03-03-2004, 09:29 PM   #7012
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Can someone recommend what kind of ratio for a 10t, 15t and a stock 23t motor??
I am running a CRC v3.1
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Old 03-04-2004, 06:57 AM   #7013
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Default Notchy diff

Last night I was re-building my diff with the new ceramic balls I got. Cleaned everything, sanded the diff rings then polished them, lightly lubed the diff balls then put everything back together. Now the diff has a very notchy feel to it. I tore it back apart and put in a new set of steel diff balls. Same thing. tried different bearings, different spurs, different axles (one new CRC big ring diff even), everything and is still feels the same.

Any thoughts?

Blake
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:16 AM   #7014
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Default Notchy Diff

When I rebuild a diff, I take some time and "sneak-up" on the right tension. What I mean is, as I put it together, and start to tighten the diff nut, right when it makes the diff come together, I start turning the wheels making the diff operate. (tires move in opposite direction) I'll do this for about 30-seconds to a minute. Then I'll tighten it up a little more, turn the wheels again. I keep doing thiss till I have what I think is the right amount of pressure on the diff. I was "TOLD" that it's possible to "dent" the diff balls or the diff rings if you just tighten the diff all the way all at once. Weather that is true or not, I don't know, but my diffs go together pretty smooth. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:21 AM   #7015
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Would it be possible to dent the ceramic balls? I've re-sanded the faces of the diff plates twice now? Nothing visible there, diff balls look fine as well.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:25 AM   #7016
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Default notchy diff

blake,
it could be the thrust washers and balls. i have seen them wear out before the main balls/washers
mike lindsay(non 12 scale driver)
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:27 AM   #7017
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Default diff

I'm not sure, I kinda doubt it as I think the hardness of the ceramic is harder then the rings. When I 1st purchased ceramics for my Tc3, I was trying to find diffrings that mached the hardness of the balls. I ended up buying Niftech diff rings and using Acer ceramic balls. I'll be rebuilding my 12th diff this weekend using ceramic balls. I'm waiting for new rings to come in. Where the diff rings you used new?
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:36 AM   #7018
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Yes and no. I had put a new big ring diff from CRC together but hadn't run it yet. I pulled that apart and re-built it with the ceramic balls.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:36 AM   #7019
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Blake-if you havent changed the bearing thats next to the adjusting nut-then thats most likey your problem as sedanaddict has said. I'd start there.

Ray
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:39 AM   #7020
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Tried 2 different sets of bearings. I'll run up to the shop tonight and try some new ones.
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