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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-29-2004, 11:58 AM   #6961
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I have a SpeedMerchant and I really like it. What I would do is check out your local track and see what cars they carry parts for. My local track carries the 12l3, reflex 12, yokomo yrx 12, crc carpert knife 3.2... Most guys at my track run the CRC or 12L3 and 1 or 2 run the Trinity car.

Off of a recomendation, I am running the speedmerchant rev3 and like it. I have talked with the owner and a team driver and they were very helpful in helping me learn the car.

All that to say, see what guys in your area run, ask questions, see what cars your LHS carries and then make a choice.

Clint
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Old 02-29-2004, 08:44 PM   #6962
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DavidL and MikeD-some questions for you guys.

I ran a Rug Rat (first T-bar car in 3 or 4 years) and its so different than my Speedmerchant rev3's that I am a bit lost on set-ups. I am used to the quicness in steering feel and on-power / exit steering of the Rev3. What are some of the general changes to be made on the Rat for more steering in general? But-not making it edgy. I hate edgy feeling 12th scales.

If you guys want to PM or e-mail me-thats cool too.

ON the plus side-the body I ran looks almost unran after a whole day of practice and racing. Car was that easy and predictable to motor around. You can kind of go into cruise control. but I was losing time getting to the apex and also a bit trying to get back on the power after the apex.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:44 PM   #6963
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Raydee- check out the Q-12 it's a real nice conversion kit for the 12L3, as a matter of fact today I was TQ and won the A runnin a Q-12, also the mod main was won with a Q-12 closely followed by a 12L3. Tee plate cars are easier to set up and funner to run
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Old 03-01-2004, 04:43 AM   #6964
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Talking m300

Well, at the place i ran, the M300 seems to dominate. Trying hard to break their dominace. They are 6-cell stick pack and handles surprisingly well. Dont forget there is alway the YOKOMO and HPI(HARA) cars.

BTW, i tried running without the dampers and side springs for my CK last week. And i am sad to say that it handles better than the setup i decided on after a few months of running. Anyone knows why? I can corner harder, turn out of corners faster.
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:18 AM   #6965
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what did you end up running, a tbar.

and on what surface
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:20 AM   #6966
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Hi! I'm Thomas from Hong Kong, playing rc12l3. In Hong Kong, 1/12 onroad is not so popular, nearly all playing rc12l3 only because it's easy to buy parts.
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:52 AM   #6967
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
what did you end up running, a tbar.

and on what surface
Running on rather new asphalt. Yeah, a t-bar with a vcs micro shock. The sides of the chassis do wear alot, but i stick on steel blades to protect them. The steel blades do produce sparks and yes, they are spectecular in the night, especially when a few of us are running together.

The idea came from a guy who had been in this hobby for 2 decades. According to him, the dampers and springs were non existence in the past. And so he urged me to try. Unbelievable and distressful, especially since i spent so much track time to tune the car.

I was running red side springs with 300wt oil in the dampers. On brown centre springs with 40wt oil.
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:25 AM   #6968
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Ray,

Post some of your set-up and we can give you some suggestions on what to try.

Fred B
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:09 AM   #6969
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Unregistered - Is that the one and only Fred Baumgardner?

Ray H. - first check your caster. Low caster will be helpfull getting into the corner. It will also be better when battling traction roll problems. Also check your front spring. You might have to make a change there.

Next is from experiene at The Gate. I was using the new Silva medium firm spring steel T-Plate the last time I was there. I think it has a good characteristic for recovering from the corners, but I didn't like how I was hooking up forward bite on that carpet. I am assuming you were using the fiberglass T-Plate. Here is what I think about that. The .062 plate will need the use all three mounting screws to the motor pod. I think it will hook up well for forward bite, so then you are down to a choice of white or grey rear tires. You will probably like the silver center spring with 30 wt oil. But the tire selection may give you the rotation you need. If not, put an orange spring on each dampner and tweak with the screws on the T-Plate. When looking at the .075 T-Plate, the same thing applies, but you may end up with a different choice of tire and you probably will not need to consider the orange spring. By the way, use Losi medium Hydradrive fluid in the dampners.

Those are my immediate thoughts. I will be at The Gate this coming weekend and for the following weekends till the Nationals. I suggest The Gate be open all Saturdays as well as Sundays. It could be a well needed payday for that crew.

Lastly, you were identified as having the USTC points. When will the website be updated with the up to date totals?
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:10 AM   #6970
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Yup, that's me, but with a t instead of a d.

I think that part of what Ray might be feeling is the reactive caster. A good start might be to set the caster up close to what the oldskool front end had. Or even try running the non reactive blocks.

The rumor is that there are some new front end parts coming. They might be available by Nats...
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Old 03-01-2004, 01:27 PM   #6971
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David, Fred-howdeee!!

I ran 20 front springs, 75 t-plate (3-screws), losi med in dampers and Purple/white tires from jaco. Also 30 wt oil w/ silver spring. A touch of toe out. I woud have run Greys, but was afraid of going loose at 6 or 7 minute mark. We had a decent groove at days end to be honest-I should have tried Greys for Main. I also set the caster to 5 degrees.

I think thats it. I will try those things you suggested Thursday night. And also David-Great job in qualifying at USTC race.

Greg Anthony volunteered to do the points for the USTC.

Ray
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Old 03-01-2004, 07:54 PM   #6972
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Quote:
Originally posted by spyderx
1.185 rear, 1.1775 - 1.750 front. set ride height at 3-3.5mm
You know, I just re-read my post... I threw an extra 1 in there.. DUH! Meant 1.85 and 1.775...

HOpefully you knew what I meant =)
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:00 PM   #6973
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You were dreaming of the batteries your hoping to buy next week-its okay!!

DavdL and Unregistered-made some changes along those lines for Thursday night!!

Ray
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:54 PM   #6974
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Greg Anthony volunteered to do the points for the USTC.
Ray, only comment on things you know of as fact...
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:08 PM   #6975
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Quote:
Originally posted by Greg Anthony
Ray, only comment on things you know of as fact...
Thats rich comng from you-I didnt know there were any subjects you didnt feel you couldnt comment on. I guess the POints sheets you did on Excell and sent to me and Bruce and Eric and the reply we all got from Bruce saying that hed be happy for you to do the points for the USTC was just something I dreamed up?? Sorry-didnt get the copy on your reply!!!

Ray
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