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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time. On black carpet the car may be numb to sauce changes, either a long or short sauce can produce very similar handling.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front. Alternatively you can sauce the front tires harder and tune the car for less front end bite.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz. Possibly a longer sauce will prevent fuzzing.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

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Old 03-04-2002, 09:24 PM   #676
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Ok, ok, where is everyone? Hopefully you guys haven't been duped into thinking that it's my responsibility to keep the thread on the first page and going well huh? Petenis, Dragon S, Foams, Dave S, get youselves on here and start posting up some storms. Lets get 15-20 post each out of you guys, even if it's not directly 12th related. Talk about your tire truer, your commutator lathe, how you store your tires, how you "clean" your tires. What about articles in the mags that you thought were helpful or not or promoted 12th scale or the ones that don't. Whose gears do you guys use and why? Some like HPI's purple 64pitch and others like Kimbrough's. Has anyone tried BSR tires and if so what do you think of them? Which do you guys prefer, Jaco or TRC and why? What charge rates do you use and why? There are tons, I mean TONS of topics to talk about. No one has it all down or even most of it down, ok, maybe Dieter with chassis and Danny with Batteries and Reedy, Dieter, Big Jim, Oscar Jansen with motors! So start posting!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-05-2002, 12:12 AM   #677
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**FoamDonuts reporting for posting SIR!!!****hehhe

Ok lets see to start, it was a huge help for me to see the pics in the newest RCCA of Josh's layout on his chassis and see what his setup was. I know have a clear picture in my mind how to layout my elecs. Still dont know what a dragon skin cutter is, but I do know that I am looking for MAXMOD AC tire truer with a dragon skin cutter on it. I prefer JACO foams for the 1/12 and the sedan. I use the Trinity TRULATHE 3 comm lathe(diamond bit of course) I have these tubes that I use to store my tires(lengths of PVC with caps on the ends that hold the "moisture" of the tire in. I wonder sometimes if I am causing my tires to get too "moist" and therefore change the makeup of the tire somewhat. As far as charge rates go I charge at 4.5 amps for all of my packs. I charge the 3000HV's at a different voltage threshold than I do the SMH's. I have found that the best performance that can be gained out of the SMH's is to get them flaming hot, then re-peak them right before a run, then race. I get fresh charge power for the first 4 minutes of the run and then they start to feel like 3000HV's. I have been doing it this way for over a year with the same sets of packs in my TC's and havent noticed a drop in performance of the packs and havent vented a single cell. Most people cringe when they grab one of my packs to go run but that is how I have found them to work the best. UM, as far as motor choice I try to stay away from EPIC-based motors and all Trinity products(dont flame me this has just been my experience) because of my poor luck with them. I think that Mike Reedy has nailed it with the Ti's they are insane and I can out horsepower everyone at my Local Track with anyone of his motors. As far as batteries SMC is the way to go, they offer the most consistent performance and plus they discharge them at 30amps which, in my opinion, makes for a better duration on the track and in the packs life in general because there is less voltage seperation between cells in a given pack. As far as gears go I use Kimbrough stuff on my off-road and TC's I have found Jay's gears to be cut more uniformly and more precisely. As you have gathered I try to find the most reliable equipment I can find and once you hit on something that you can trust you can focus on your driving instead of fixing your equipment after every run. WHEW, fingers are tired now. OK guys I did my duty. Sound off on what you prefer what you use and what you trust.
IKE
P.S.The rest of my elecs should be here tomorrow so I can run my car.
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Old 03-05-2002, 05:21 PM   #678
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I believe, but am not 100% sure, that dragon skin is a tool used to round the edges on tires when they've been trued, but I could be wrong.

Anyone know what grit sandpapaer to use when sanding diff rings? I used 600, and rubbed on them for ever and they still got a visible groove in them, although they feel next to new. Is there a better or shorter method?
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Old 03-05-2002, 05:28 PM   #679
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darnold-

here! I am posting twice in the same day, on the same thread! Although I don't have anything to talk about... Oh yea,One time, at band camp...oh wait not r/c related...nevermind.

Well my weekend went okay, I suppose, Got more speed, Dave S got a Core motor and whooped me, (It was tech-problems I swear!!) and I scored one of Darnold's Ti's Which is way faster than my Fantom Ti

There I'm done now!

ThePetenis
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Old 03-05-2002, 05:53 PM   #680
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Hey look at my avatar! (picture thingy under name)

I wanna be like Darnold!
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Old 03-05-2002, 05:54 PM   #681
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nevermind
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Old 03-05-2002, 06:06 PM   #682
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ok maybe this time?
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Old 03-05-2002, 07:15 PM   #683
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nope still doesnt work. AHHHH sucks huh? I went to the track tonight and ran one pack through a POOPY3(TC3) and then ran about 10 packs through my offroad stuff. You could try using some 400 to scuff the rings and then 600 to smooth them up. That should do it just fine. OK gotta run gotta build my new Mission.
IKE
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Old 03-05-2002, 07:26 PM   #684
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hey what is the preferred method for beveling the battery slots and stuff on the carbon fiber chassises? I getting ready to build my mission and I need to know.
IKE
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Old 03-05-2002, 10:41 PM   #685
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Petenis- I want to be like Jesus (without the giving my life part although the ressurection is definately a plus). I think Foams hit it with the 400grit and then try 2000! It puts a super fine mirror like finish that I have found really helps with a nice differential.

Foams- I use a small file and take a lot of time. The dragon skin is a type of "bit" that tire truers such as the Max Mod and Cobra Tire Truers use. They have a bunch of "spikes" that really shred foams and give them a nice finish. Most people use fingernail file or board to round off the edges of the tires.

So Petenis is my Integy Ti faster on the straight or out of the corners or what and how is its efficiency/run time compared to the Core and Fantom motors? How were you gearing the Fantom and how do you gear the Integy Ti on the same track?

Thanks for posting and may more join us soon and often. Come on back now ya hear? hehehehe
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Old 03-06-2002, 05:19 AM   #686
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Hi Guys,

I've been lurking on this thread the last few weeks and am getting ready for my first 1/12 road race tomorrow in Indy (my local track). I'm using a SM Rev3- (I got it used through ebay and it looks very nice).

I'm looking into batteries as I only have leftover 2400's. Which type of 3000's should I be using for 1/12 stock, SMH or HV? I need some for velodrome racing too and would like to be able to use them for both types of racing.

Thanks,
Brian
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Old 03-06-2002, 09:39 AM   #687
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BadSign (Brian)- I would honestly go with Sanyo HV's from SMC Batteries. The HV's seem to really hold up and actually like heat and give better runtime under higher loads than they do at lower loads. So packs that check out at 510sec @ 20amps would actually have MORE capacity at 25amps like we run in 12th Modified. SMC is the matcher of choice IMO because of many factors. First they have their machines set up so that the heat from one can't affect the readings of another machine. Second they use a constant temp room like others but I think they set the temp a little higher so that it more closely resembles the actuall environment that they are raced in instead of cooler temps that usually help cells perform better but don't match the 75-100deg temps seen on the tracks throughout the year. Thirdly SMC uses multiple cycles at 30amps which not only weeds out the weaker cells so that we don't get them but it also Trains the packs to be able to deliver more consistently when you nail the throttle. Fouthly, by multi processing the cells they don't change after a few runs thereby "unmatching" your packs and ruining your investment. Finally you get SMC's Legendary R&D. SMC is the only company that I know of that actually DETRACTS time from their HV cells by a constant formulated amount so that the numbers are as true as possible. Danny found out last year through constant R&D that these cells can go up and down a little in their runtime so he devised a formula to subtract runtime so that when the we have a more reliable number for our packs. And Danny continues to R&D to find the best ways to preserve the racers investment of performance and durability. You may often hear/read people saying that their batteries "haven't lost anything" or "are still holding up". You have to understand that often people don't actually cycle their batteries on a constant discharge device like a Turbo 30, Integy 16x5-9, Lavco or Hi IQ. All of these machines allow at least a constant 20amps discharge with timer and auto cutoff so you can know what the cells are when you start and about every 2 months you should check them to see where they are at. This is how you can tell the durability of the cells and in this more consistent, scientific form of testing we are finding that the HV's keep more of their runtime and that the voltage actually increases some. If you tray your packs for no more than 20 min every two weeks you will stabilize and keep even more of your runtime and help the I.R. to stay down as well. This low loss of runtime over use is VERY important to veledrome and modified use. So SMC HV's IMO are the way to go! hope this helps-Dave A.
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Old 03-06-2002, 10:36 AM   #688
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It works
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Old 03-06-2002, 12:17 PM   #689
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no big suprise here, let me second Dave's suggestion for batteries. I started using the SMC packs about 6 months ago and havent bought another pack from a different company since. I have the 2400 and the HV's as well as 3-4 SMH packs from SMC and they outperform all the other packs that I have seen. The way that the guys at SMC match the cells leave very little room for error, and because of this you get superiorly matched cells that dont change numbers after a few cycles on your equipment. The majority of my packs from SMC have actually gotten better as they have aged, and this is a shocker for me becuse of the way that I charge my NiMH packs. The "other" companies batteries have not faired so well to my "prefferred" method of charging, but the SMC's have gotten better with age. Like a Fine Wine or a Woman hehehheehehehehhehe
IKE
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Old 03-06-2002, 12:41 PM   #690
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Thanks for your help guys. I'll let you know how my first race goes. If any of you are going to Indy this weekend, I may be stopping by!
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