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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-04-2002, 10:24 PM   #676
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Ok, ok, where is everyone? Hopefully you guys haven't been duped into thinking that it's my responsibility to keep the thread on the first page and going well huh? Petenis, Dragon S, Foams, Dave S, get youselves on here and start posting up some storms. Lets get 15-20 post each out of you guys, even if it's not directly 12th related. Talk about your tire truer, your commutator lathe, how you store your tires, how you "clean" your tires. What about articles in the mags that you thought were helpful or not or promoted 12th scale or the ones that don't. Whose gears do you guys use and why? Some like HPI's purple 64pitch and others like Kimbrough's. Has anyone tried BSR tires and if so what do you think of them? Which do you guys prefer, Jaco or TRC and why? What charge rates do you use and why? There are tons, I mean TONS of topics to talk about. No one has it all down or even most of it down, ok, maybe Dieter with chassis and Danny with Batteries and Reedy, Dieter, Big Jim, Oscar Jansen with motors! So start posting!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:12 AM   #677
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**FoamDonuts reporting for posting SIR!!!****hehhe

Ok lets see to start, it was a huge help for me to see the pics in the newest RCCA of Josh's layout on his chassis and see what his setup was. I know have a clear picture in my mind how to layout my elecs. Still dont know what a dragon skin cutter is, but I do know that I am looking for MAXMOD AC tire truer with a dragon skin cutter on it. I prefer JACO foams for the 1/12 and the sedan. I use the Trinity TRULATHE 3 comm lathe(diamond bit of course) I have these tubes that I use to store my tires(lengths of PVC with caps on the ends that hold the "moisture" of the tire in. I wonder sometimes if I am causing my tires to get too "moist" and therefore change the makeup of the tire somewhat. As far as charge rates go I charge at 4.5 amps for all of my packs. I charge the 3000HV's at a different voltage threshold than I do the SMH's. I have found that the best performance that can be gained out of the SMH's is to get them flaming hot, then re-peak them right before a run, then race. I get fresh charge power for the first 4 minutes of the run and then they start to feel like 3000HV's. I have been doing it this way for over a year with the same sets of packs in my TC's and havent noticed a drop in performance of the packs and havent vented a single cell. Most people cringe when they grab one of my packs to go run but that is how I have found them to work the best. UM, as far as motor choice I try to stay away from EPIC-based motors and all Trinity products(dont flame me this has just been my experience) because of my poor luck with them. I think that Mike Reedy has nailed it with the Ti's they are insane and I can out horsepower everyone at my Local Track with anyone of his motors. As far as batteries SMC is the way to go, they offer the most consistent performance and plus they discharge them at 30amps which, in my opinion, makes for a better duration on the track and in the packs life in general because there is less voltage seperation between cells in a given pack. As far as gears go I use Kimbrough stuff on my off-road and TC's I have found Jay's gears to be cut more uniformly and more precisely. As you have gathered I try to find the most reliable equipment I can find and once you hit on something that you can trust you can focus on your driving instead of fixing your equipment after every run. WHEW, fingers are tired now. OK guys I did my duty. Sound off on what you prefer what you use and what you trust.
IKE
P.S.The rest of my elecs should be here tomorrow so I can run my car.
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Old 03-05-2002, 06:21 PM   #678
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I believe, but am not 100% sure, that dragon skin is a tool used to round the edges on tires when they've been trued, but I could be wrong.

Anyone know what grit sandpapaer to use when sanding diff rings? I used 600, and rubbed on them for ever and they still got a visible groove in them, although they feel next to new. Is there a better or shorter method?
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Old 03-05-2002, 06:28 PM   #679
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darnold-

here! I am posting twice in the same day, on the same thread! Although I don't have anything to talk about... Oh yea,One time, at band camp...oh wait not r/c related...nevermind.

Well my weekend went okay, I suppose, Got more speed, Dave S got a Core motor and whooped me, (It was tech-problems I swear!!) and I scored one of Darnold's Ti's Which is way faster than my Fantom Ti

There I'm done now!

ThePetenis
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Old 03-05-2002, 06:53 PM   #680
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Hey look at my avatar! (picture thingy under name)

I wanna be like Darnold!
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Old 03-05-2002, 06:54 PM   #681
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nevermind
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Old 03-05-2002, 07:06 PM   #682
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ok maybe this time?
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Old 03-05-2002, 08:15 PM   #683
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nope still doesnt work. AHHHH sucks huh? I went to the track tonight and ran one pack through a POOPY3(TC3) and then ran about 10 packs through my offroad stuff. You could try using some 400 to scuff the rings and then 600 to smooth them up. That should do it just fine. OK gotta run gotta build my new Mission.
IKE
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Old 03-05-2002, 08:26 PM   #684
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hey what is the preferred method for beveling the battery slots and stuff on the carbon fiber chassises? I getting ready to build my mission and I need to know.
IKE
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Old 03-05-2002, 11:41 PM   #685
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Petenis- I want to be like Jesus (without the giving my life part although the ressurection is definately a plus). I think Foams hit it with the 400grit and then try 2000! It puts a super fine mirror like finish that I have found really helps with a nice differential.

Foams- I use a small file and take a lot of time. The dragon skin is a type of "bit" that tire truers such as the Max Mod and Cobra Tire Truers use. They have a bunch of "spikes" that really shred foams and give them a nice finish. Most people use fingernail file or board to round off the edges of the tires.

So Petenis is my Integy Ti faster on the straight or out of the corners or what and how is its efficiency/run time compared to the Core and Fantom motors? How were you gearing the Fantom and how do you gear the Integy Ti on the same track?

Thanks for posting and may more join us soon and often. Come on back now ya hear? hehehehe
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Old 03-06-2002, 06:19 AM   #686
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Hi Guys,

I've been lurking on this thread the last few weeks and am getting ready for my first 1/12 road race tomorrow in Indy (my local track). I'm using a SM Rev3- (I got it used through ebay and it looks very nice).

I'm looking into batteries as I only have leftover 2400's. Which type of 3000's should I be using for 1/12 stock, SMH or HV? I need some for velodrome racing too and would like to be able to use them for both types of racing.

Thanks,
Brian
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Old 03-06-2002, 10:39 AM   #687
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BadSign (Brian)- I would honestly go with Sanyo HV's from SMC Batteries. The HV's seem to really hold up and actually like heat and give better runtime under higher loads than they do at lower loads. So packs that check out at 510sec @ 20amps would actually have MORE capacity at 25amps like we run in 12th Modified. SMC is the matcher of choice IMO because of many factors. First they have their machines set up so that the heat from one can't affect the readings of another machine. Second they use a constant temp room like others but I think they set the temp a little higher so that it more closely resembles the actuall environment that they are raced in instead of cooler temps that usually help cells perform better but don't match the 75-100deg temps seen on the tracks throughout the year. Thirdly SMC uses multiple cycles at 30amps which not only weeds out the weaker cells so that we don't get them but it also Trains the packs to be able to deliver more consistently when you nail the throttle. Fouthly, by multi processing the cells they don't change after a few runs thereby "unmatching" your packs and ruining your investment. Finally you get SMC's Legendary R&D. SMC is the only company that I know of that actually DETRACTS time from their HV cells by a constant formulated amount so that the numbers are as true as possible. Danny found out last year through constant R&D that these cells can go up and down a little in their runtime so he devised a formula to subtract runtime so that when the we have a more reliable number for our packs. And Danny continues to R&D to find the best ways to preserve the racers investment of performance and durability. You may often hear/read people saying that their batteries "haven't lost anything" or "are still holding up". You have to understand that often people don't actually cycle their batteries on a constant discharge device like a Turbo 30, Integy 16x5-9, Lavco or Hi IQ. All of these machines allow at least a constant 20amps discharge with timer and auto cutoff so you can know what the cells are when you start and about every 2 months you should check them to see where they are at. This is how you can tell the durability of the cells and in this more consistent, scientific form of testing we are finding that the HV's keep more of their runtime and that the voltage actually increases some. If you tray your packs for no more than 20 min every two weeks you will stabilize and keep even more of your runtime and help the I.R. to stay down as well. This low loss of runtime over use is VERY important to veledrome and modified use. So SMC HV's IMO are the way to go! hope this helps-Dave A.
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Old 03-06-2002, 11:36 AM   #688
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It works
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Old 03-06-2002, 01:17 PM   #689
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no big suprise here, let me second Dave's suggestion for batteries. I started using the SMC packs about 6 months ago and havent bought another pack from a different company since. I have the 2400 and the HV's as well as 3-4 SMH packs from SMC and they outperform all the other packs that I have seen. The way that the guys at SMC match the cells leave very little room for error, and because of this you get superiorly matched cells that dont change numbers after a few cycles on your equipment. The majority of my packs from SMC have actually gotten better as they have aged, and this is a shocker for me becuse of the way that I charge my NiMH packs. The "other" companies batteries have not faired so well to my "prefferred" method of charging, but the SMC's have gotten better with age. Like a Fine Wine or a Woman hehehheehehehehhehe
IKE
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Old 03-06-2002, 01:41 PM   #690
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Thanks for your help guys. I'll let you know how my first race goes. If any of you are going to Indy this weekend, I may be stopping by!
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