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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-23-2004, 03:39 PM   #6856
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Default Re: Bodies

Quote:
Originally posted by RC Paperboy
I want to try some new bodies, right now Im using the Protoform Speed 8/P35. The only thing is, I dont want to have to change all my electronics, I have a chunky AM receiver and a cyclone. Do any of these bodies have lots of space underneath for big electronics?

Parma Speed8/Trinity Speed9
CEFX
Ascari (doubt it)

Thanks
The CEFX body is about 1/8" - 1/16" higher then the cells. (depends on how low you mount it too - mine is as low as I can get it). You'll need to tip the battery bars to the outside or the inside to get them to lay down a bit. the cyclone should be OK as long as you lay the wires parallel to the chassis and don't use a heat sink. Don't know what receiver you run - I run a xxl and stand it up length wise behind the servo and against the shock/rollover mount. Makes crystal access easier and better balances the chassis. I just can't use the xxl plastic crystal plug. The body just touches the top of the xxl (it's right under the driver).

BTW - I moved to the CEFX from the parma speed 8. It was much more planted feeling but didn't slow down at all. Just more calm. Now if I can only not hit stuff....
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:44 PM   #6857
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
How do you ensure that your diff is spaced side to side correctly? How do you ensure that your diff is square with the pod?

Blake
Measure the distance from the inside of each tire to the pod plates. They should be the same. Shim one side or the other to get them equal. If you have a setup table, you can also measure the offset from the chassis edge to the outside edge of the tire.

Need to use calipers to make sure the pod is parallel to the chassis, ideally that the axle is parallel to the chassis back edge. Again do this on a setup board so the pod doesn't rotate.
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:45 PM   #6858
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The new protoform speed 12 is great I started using it 2 weeks ago and Love it
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:29 PM   #6859
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RC Paperboy,

Get the Parma Speed 8. You should not have to mess with your electronics much (if at all) to get it to fit good and it handles great
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:58 PM   #6860
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Ill start with the Parma then, I like the idea of having lots of electronics space. Maybe if I feel really adventurous, Ill try the CEFX later
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Old 02-23-2004, 07:07 PM   #6861
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Hello guys, I have just fin my IRS Rugrat with the IRS front end and Silva spring steel T_bar.
If anyone is familar with this car and can help me with setup's I thank you. I will be running this car in stock class. I race TC's so this is my first 1/12.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:45 PM   #6862
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Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
How do you ensure that your diff is spaced side to side correctly? How do you ensure that your diff is square with the pod?

Blake


Quote:
Originally posted by sands
Measure the distance from the inside of each tire to the pod plates. They should be the same. Shim one side or the other to get them equal. If you have a setup table, you can also measure the offset from the chassis edge to the outside edge of the tire.

Need to use calipers to make sure the pod is parallel to the chassis, ideally that the axle is parallel to the chassis back edge. Again do this on a setup board so the pod doesn't rotate.
this is a great way to square the car but you need to measure from the centerline of the car to the wheel. the idea behind it is to get the car to be the same from left to right your basically centering the pod. I mark the centerline of the car and measur off that. I set the rear track width at 6.750 with trc tires on a irs rug rat with irs pod plates
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:48 PM   #6863
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Quote:
Originally posted by gijoe64
Hello guys, I have just fin my IRS Rugrat with the IRS front end and Silva spring steel T_bar.
If anyone is familar with this car and can help me with setup's I thank you. I will be running this car in stock class. I race TC's so this is my first 1/12.

Daveid lee where are yah
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Old 02-24-2004, 04:49 AM   #6864
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I am here
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Old 02-24-2004, 06:47 AM   #6865
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Thanks for the help. The rear axle was the culprit. It was off 2mm on the left side. Shimmed it up perfectly now.
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Old 02-24-2004, 06:54 AM   #6866
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Man oh man. Oh my Columbus boys running 12th scale now. Just kidding. 12th scales are dialed..........
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Old 02-24-2004, 06:56 AM   #6867
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You got it RB...I gave a crappy one I got to John...he's hooked. I bought a new Bloody Knife and I'm hooked. Kevin got his running right and now I think he's hooked.

Might see you in Cleveland this weekend? I still want to check out that MI2 I keep hearing is so sweet. John still has a woody from seeing it, just ask Kevin.
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Old 02-24-2004, 07:03 AM   #6868
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I struggled a bit in 12th yesterday. Been too long not driving the little cars. I finally had a good run going in the third when I hit a flapper and car came to a deadstop. I was on a 8:01 ands was trying desperately to improve to a 35 8:13. Something electronic went kapoooey as it quite working after that!!!

IAN-in the end-I went back to the black spring from red and that helped it feel way more consistent from turn in to mid-corner. Car still feels uncomfortable and still feels like its digging in on front, just not as bad as in the first round. I did have 0.022 front springs, blue sides, med hydra. Jaco Purple and White. Ran car super low too 3mm(front and rear).

Any other ideas?
Ray
Tires, tires, tires. When you went from the red spring to the black spring did the "digging in" up front get worse towards the end of the run? If it did, the Jaco purples are the culprit. they get all grabby when they get hot. I ended my day on a copper center spring w/ 70 wt. oil, medium hydra, blue sides .022 front springs 2 degrees caster, 2 degrees camber, 1 degree toe-out. 3mm rear ride height, 3.5mm up front.

The rael difference between our set-ups is the rubber. I find TRC tans to be FAR more consistent than purples and I ran TRC grey rears. Pulfer had good luck with CRC grey all the way around on his car. Mo ran the same thing I did.
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Old 02-24-2004, 07:37 AM   #6869
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I am new to 1/12th scale and I have a Speed Merchant Rev3. Can anyone help me with a *general* gearing starting place for stock?

the track I run on is 100x60 and is fairly tight. I am using a teal monster motor or an orion core.

Thanks!

Clint
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Old 02-24-2004, 07:38 AM   #6870
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Pic of my ride
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