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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2004, 07:28 PM   #6841
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Hey Scrad.
Anyone know why a 12th darts to the left off the start. All bearings feel good, tweak is right on, no chunked tires. It's fine through the whole race, except for the start.
Anyone!
Oh yeah it's a carpet knife.
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Old 02-22-2004, 08:48 PM   #6842
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Quote:
Originally posted by TOEBSTER2
Hey Scrad.
Anyone know why a 12th darts to the left off the start. All bearings feel good, tweak is right on, no chunked tires. It's fine through the whole race, except for the start.
Anyone!
Oh yeah it's a carpet knife.
Check how your motor wires are connected. Under load they will tweek the rear pod.

I run a hot lap before the race to run the tires in, I also use very little traction sauce, more then a little will make it slick. You should ease onto the gas anyway, helps run time, your motor temps will be lower with more punch at the end of the race, and your car will only accelerate so fast anyway. No sense jabbing the throttle when the car can't use it.
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Old 02-22-2004, 08:56 PM   #6843
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toebster2: there are several cause for a car to dart off to the side like you said, assuming like you said that it was balanced. If the pod is crooked (screws loose, play in your side links), diff is not square with your pod (probably ride height adjusters), diff not spaced side to side correctly, shorter tire size than the other side or need of a diff adjustment.
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Old 02-22-2004, 09:12 PM   #6844
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heres some of the reasons why that would happen. the floor may not be level, like my home track. you cant really hammer on the throttle at the start, but rather ease into it because the tires havnt got enough heat and the torque from the motor could cause wheelspin. another possiblitliy is that your diff slips and the power is shifted more to the right tire than the left so it pushes left, in fact that could occur anyway due to the way the diff is built, ie more lube on one side than the other.
the easy solution is to just ease onto the trottle at the begining and then rip on it after that
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:42 AM   #6845
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Quote:
Originally posted by 429racer
toebster2: there are several cause for a car to dart off to the side like you said, assuming like you said that it was balanced. If the pod is crooked (screws loose, play in your side links), diff is not square with your pod (probably ride height adjusters), diff not spaced side to side correctly, shorter tire size than the other side or need of a diff adjustment.
How do you ensure that your diff is spaced side to side correctly? How do you ensure that your diff is square with the pod?

Blake
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:53 AM   #6846
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
How do you ensure that your diff is spaced side to side correctly? How do you ensure that your diff is square with the pod?

Blake
mark a line on the rear pod palte that corresponds to the centerline of the chassis, measure from that line to the outside edge of each rear wheel. It should be the same distance.
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Old 02-23-2004, 07:28 AM   #6847
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How'd you fare this weekend Ian?

Kevin E. and I ran at Y-City. We had 8 1/12th scales...good turnout for them. Kevin was just about to give up on it. I fixed his tweak springs (he had a ton of preload on them) and it was perfect. He almost took home the win but got tied up and took him out.

Needless to say, he's hooked on the 1/12th now. So am I. Love the XRay but if I don't drive it again, that's fine.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:36 AM   #6848
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I struggled a bit in 12th yesterday. Been too long not driving the little cars. I finally had a good run going in the third when I hit a flapper and car came to a deadstop. I was on a 8:01 ands was trying desperately to improve to a 35 8:13. Something electronic went kapoooey as it quite working after that!!!

IAN-in the end-I went back to the black spring from red and that helped it feel way more consistent from turn in to mid-corner. Car still feels uncomfortable and still feels like its digging in on front, just not as bad as in the first round. I did have 0.022 front springs, blue sides, med hydra. Jaco Purple and White. Ran car super low too 3mm(front and rear).

Any other ideas?
Ray
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:12 AM   #6849
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Jason, my car will do that a little bit too. I could be the combination of all the things mentioned before. Usually if the car is setup correctly it is just the sauce on the tire combined with all the power at the beggining of the race.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:57 AM   #6850
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ray some times preloading the front springs with a .010 spacer under the sring will help another thing to do is lower the rear of the chassis down or raise the front end a little. it works for me in my quad 12 try it and let me know!
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:01 AM   #6851
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
ray some times preloading the front springs with a .010 spacer under the sring will help another thing to do is lower the rear of the chassis down or raise the front end a little. it works for me in my quad 12 try it and let me know!
Thanks-I used to run nose up 100% of the time. I think I have done too many big races with lots of traction now and I am having trouble adapting to med grip set-ups.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:03 AM   #6852
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When setting up my Bloody Knife this past weekend, I noticed something a bit odd with the ride height.

When I measured the ride height in the front or back I got 4mm. On one side of the chassis I got ~4.3 mm and on the other side 3.8mm

What would be causing this? I put everything together with great care...what am I missing?
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:12 AM   #6853
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ray by the way i think from the stuff you were mentioning are you using a none t-plate car.
ray i actually set my car up the same for carpet as i do for asphalt the only difference is that on the carpet i use a thicker t-plate and run greys in the rear and i run lower profile tires.
ray some times going softer in the rear as in tires it will help you especially on med bite traction. what tires are you using now.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:19 AM   #6854
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
How'd you fare this weekend Ian?

Kevin E. and I ran at Y-City. We had 8 1/12th scales...good turnout for them. Kevin was just about to give up on it. I fixed his tweak springs (he had a ton of preload on them) and it was perfect. He almost took home the win but got tied up and took him out.

Needless to say, he's hooked on the 1/12th now. So am I. Love the XRay but if I don't drive it again, that's fine.
I had a pretty good weekend, Fairly competitive.

I told you guys that those little cars would become addictive the very first time you put a dialled car on the track!
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:53 PM   #6855
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Default Bodies

I want to try some new bodies, right now Im using the Protoform Speed 8/P35. The only thing is, I dont want to have to change all my electronics, I have a chunky AM receiver and a cyclone. Do any of these bodies have lots of space underneath for big electronics?

Parma Speed8/Trinity Speed9
CEFX
Ascari (doubt it)

Thanks
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