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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2004, 05:39 PM   #6811
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ask lutz about traction rolling at fernando's track in kennasaw GA. it's a outdoor asphalt track and it has more traction then carpet some times. depends on the leaf factor though the only downfall to it is chassis wear. although you don't have to spec ride height for fear of tearing the carpet
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Old 02-19-2004, 06:47 AM   #6812
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What sort of motor tuning tips do you recommend for 1/12th scale.

For TC's I've been using:
Putnam Blue/Green Full face
Purple/Red Springs

What sort of things do you do with cuts, cavities, or slots for Monster stocks in 1/12th scale?
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Old 02-19-2004, 10:37 AM   #6813
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
What sort of motor tuning tips do you recommend for 1/12th scale.

For TC's I've been using:
Putnam Blue/Green Full face
Purple/Red Springs

What sort of things do you do with cuts, cavities, or slots for Monster stocks in 1/12th scale?
I run the same but with red/green springs. A hole in the center of the brush will give more top end and more efficiency. You may need to slightly lighten the spring tension when you do this though.
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:05 AM   #6814
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Not trying to create a link discussion here but, I wanted to post what I did with the Carpet Knife last night.

I picked up 2 1" Lunsford turnbuckles and 4 Dubro Ball links (the adjustable kind).

From there, I build one to fit the Carpet knife chassis then built the other to be exactly the same size. From there, I installed the links and adjusted the rear pod just as I would have if I were using the one piece links. Car looks good so far.

Can anyone see any flaws in this process? I did make sure the links are EXACTLY the same lenght.
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:11 AM   #6815
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its hard to do by eye but if you use a set of digital callipers you should be fine.thats what i use to align everything. as long as you have uniform constant places to measure from the callipers wont lie

sean
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:19 AM   #6816
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Yup...used calipers. I got real used to building rods the same length when I had my heli.
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:28 AM   #6817
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Can anyone tell me a good starting point for gearing on a 1/12th. I'm running stock on a small track and do not have a clue. I know you can't nail it down exact, just a ball park figure.

Thank you
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:41 AM   #6818
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How big are you tires? What kind of motor?
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:49 AM   #6819
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I'M not sure on the tire size. The motor will be a monster stock based. I'm really new to this so please excuse my ignorance. :-)

What size should the tracks be. The track is less than 250 foot drive line and doesn't have a big straight.

Thank you for helping.
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Old 02-20-2004, 09:06 AM   #6820
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I would try to run the rears around 1.85 inches. Rollout around 1.4-1.5.
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Old 02-20-2004, 09:19 AM   #6821
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What kind of advantage can I get from running a receiver pack in my car.I have heard of some guys doing it and wonder if it would help me any.Also what size should the pack be?
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Old 02-20-2004, 09:22 AM   #6822
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Default dr-huffererererere!!

Blake-heres the tied and trued procedure for doing the links-Its kind-of long so here goes. This is a Speedmerchant thing-but I GUESS I'll offer it to a CRC person

-take off front tires, take out axle, shocks, motor, damper tubes. Its even bettr if you take off the pod plates. Take off one side link.

-with one link on set car on flat surface. Look down from top and make sure that the gap between the pod and chassis are equal side to side.

-Adjust as neccesary

-Take second link and pop it on. NOw pick up car in one hand and rotate the pod side to side. The movement should be from top to bottom and smoooth.

-When the second link is too long it will click. When the link is too short-it will bid at the top and bottom.

-ONLY adjust the second link-not the first!!

-The adjustment range from clicking to binding is mabe 3/16 of a turn. Not even a quarter turn.


DONE!!

E-mail or call me with any further questions.
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Old 02-20-2004, 12:56 PM   #6823
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Default Car lifting

I have a 3.0 CRC knife, while on power exiting a corner it wants to lift in the rear. Running stock with Purple fronts / granite rears / copper center spring / white corner springs / heavy damping oil...

I checked my tweak and it was close to being right on...Any ideas? Could I be trying to drive it too hard? I'm a TC guy that is trying the AWESOME world of 1/12 th scale...

Thanks in advance!

Kevin
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Old 02-20-2004, 01:12 PM   #6824
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Default thinking about jumping into 1/12 as well.

where do most people race in socal? also, what is a nice car to start with? [ all prices aside ]
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Old 02-20-2004, 01:48 PM   #6825
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There is no 1/12 racing in SoCal that I know of. The cars just get shelfed until a race pops up.
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