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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-17-2004, 04:58 PM   #6766
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Speedx971-CRC has a very strong presence in Europe. We have a team of sponsored drivers as well as parts and kits in the hobby shops. Team CRC has grown quite a bit in the last couple of years all over Europe.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:12 PM   #6767
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could somebody explain to me why the holes in the crc carpet knifes football are elongated?is it just to cause me grief when trying to untweak my car?

1. which position should it be in,all the way forward or back?

2. is it possible to compress or stretch one or both of the uni-links in such a way to tweak the car? if one were stretched or compressed and the football was out of wack it could give the car rear steering

thanks for the help, iam having a weird tweak issue with my CK that i cant figure out
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:26 PM   #6768
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The ovals in the football are to allow the sidelinks to rotate freely - if not, they may bind when moving side to side. I would loosen the nuts, place the chassis and rear pod on a flat surface, and then tighten the nuts down. Should be okay after that...

So I think the ovals are to make up for any inconsistencies in machining in the football or chassis.

my $0.02

Dave
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:34 PM   #6769
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i am still confused-if the enlongated holes were to allow for free movement-they wouldnt work. once the nuts are tightened down the football is not moving, unless you crash. if that happens it could throw the rear pod out of wack. and i can tighten it down in any position. all the way forward or back. its begining to drive me nuts. as much as i love the CK,that one little issue almost makes me want to go back to a t-plate car. a little tweak is one thing-that football being crooked sucks.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:59 PM   #6770
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CRC discounts the turnbuckle style side links. What's to say you put the turnbuckles on there and adjust the football as it says in the directions?

The turnbuckles look like they would be more durable than those tiny hex balls.
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:16 PM   #6771
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i am not sure what you are saying but, by allowing the football to move you steering the rear pod.if the holes were not enlongated the football could never move ,which in turn ,would prevent the links from ever being distorted. i just think its asking for trouble. the pod should be in a fixed position keepiing the rear wheels perfectly straight. Then use adjustable links to free up movement. that way the rear pod could NEVER get misaligned. that is my issue here-rear wheel allignment not tweak. it would be like putting elongated holes in a t-plate and then trying to align the rear wheels with some molded plastic ball cups. am i nuts? or does anybody else see my point?
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:37 PM   #6772
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I agree with you completely...I don't really trust the molded rear links, especially after having the breakage problem I did this weekend. Went to the shop tonight and picked up some Dubro Ball Links and some lunsford ti links. Will be going speedmerchant style on the CRC.

If you look at Frank Calandra's Carpet Knife pictures from Cleveland he's using the speedmerchant style links.

Blake
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:46 PM   #6773
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thanks Blake, i will look into the speed merchant links. i am relativley new to 1/12 and i hear alot of people complaining about t-plates-so i bought a crc. anyway after getting it(i love the car btw) i started scatching my head when checking out the links. i just cant believe i have never heard this issue brought up before. its right there plain as day when you examine the car(wich i didnt before i bought it) its an obvious problem waiting to happen. and like you suggested it might be a problem right out of the box when dealing with molded parts
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:11 PM   #6774
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Default Finally Getting My REV 3

well its almost here ... after waiting almost 6 months for my LHS to get one in I finally just ordered it online and it should be here tomorrow or thursday.

Now the fun part ... what set up to start with .... I have ordered all of the springs ( tweak, center, and front) that Hobby Etc listed for the car so where to start.

the track I run at is roughly 85x45. Supposedly THE Ozite from the Cleveland Nats in 2002 ( the year of the diagonal straight ). the layouts vary from tight and twisty with one long straight to very open and flowing ( depends on who gets in first to set it up ).

I have already purchased Jaco Purple fronts and Grey rears. any thoughts on a starting set up would be great. Also any tips on building the car would be great. thanks in advance .....

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Old 02-17-2004, 07:21 PM   #6775
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Quote:
Originally posted by sean
thanks Blake, i will look into the speed merchant links. i am relativley new to 1/12 and i hear alot of people complaining about t-plates-so i bought a crc. anyway after getting it(i love the car btw) i started scatching my head when checking out the links. i just cant believe i have never heard this issue brought up before. its right there plain as day when you examine the car(wich i didnt before i bought it) its an obvious problem waiting to happen. and like you suggested it might be a problem right out of the box when dealing with molded parts
I'm new to 1/12th too...luckily I've listened to the locals and been lucky to have some fast 1/12th guys in the area. Ian Ruggles, Mike Pulfer, Mo Denton...Mo was helping me a bit this weekend...THANKS DUDE!
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:03 PM   #6776
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roddude: A starting set up, i have been really happy with recently is:

Front:
Old school front end: .020 springs, 2 degrees of castor, 3mm of ride height, TRC cyan tires w/ around 3/4 sauce (starting at the inside of the tire)

Back:
Orange side springs, Red AE center spring slight preload, 2-3 degrees of droop, losi med in tubes, 3mm of ride height, TRC granites, low roll center cones (keeps the car flatter, and from transferring as much weight as the stock ones, you will need to run more steering in the front because of it, since it transfers less weight).

Other:
-Niftec traction compound (track doesnt allow paragon), Parma Speed 8 body, JR 3550Z servo w/ kimbrough small AIR servo saver.

Stock gearing w/ EPIC: 26-8/100 (general)
Mod gearing w/ 11x2 PT 25/100 (general)

I am currently running TRC's because I have found them to be more consistant than JACO's also alot of guys at my track have had problems with jaco wheels cracking, or at least the front ones. I heard they fixed the problem, or were planning on it (and its only a problem on the white wheels), however until then i have a stockpile of TRC's from cleveland to work with, lol.

My track doesnt have alot of traction, so thats why i run kinda soft, if your track has pretty good traction you can run blue side springs and a black Speedmerchant center spring (also give you more steering too, lol). low traction is also why i run cyan's and granites oppose to purples and greys.

LMK if u have any Q's.
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:33 PM   #6777
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thanks for the setup tips storm ... from the sounds of your post I will first try your suggestins at the bottom of your post ... I know there is a bunch of bite in the track ( TC's have been know to bicycle the sweeper on a regular basis even Hendersons and Cyruls ) ... also what shock oil are you running in your center shock and what could I use in place of the Losi medimum since I forgot to order that ... I have shock oils up to 70wt ... thanks again ...

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Old 02-17-2004, 09:11 PM   #6778
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Quote:
Originally posted by sean
i am still confused-if the enlongated holes were to allow for free movement-they wouldnt work. once the nuts are tightened down the football is not moving, unless you crash. if that happens it could throw the rear pod out of wack. and i can tighten it down in any position. all the way forward or back. its begining to drive me nuts. as much as i love the CK,that one little issue almost makes me want to go back to a t-plate car. a little tweak is one thing-that football being crooked sucks.
They only allow for free movement to get it aligned properly - then you tighten the nuts to prevent any more movement. This is not any different than having to make sure your adjustable links on the rev3 are the same length - probably better, since there are no links to adjust.

I've yet to see anybody break a CRC link system this season anyway. ( I do use longer steel screws then stock in the pivot balls... )

I've never seen mine pop out of alignment - but then, I've never crashed that hard.

CRC has instructions on how to get it adjusted correctly - it's not really that bad. And no more involved then the REv3 instructions.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:15 PM   #6779
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I broke 3 hex pivots and 2 pivot links this weekend. I believe the problem (as described on CRC forums) was defective hex pivots.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:50 PM   #6780
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I got a set of 3 piece links from CRC... they are nothing like the speedmerchant units.. They are much smaller and lighter than the sm pieces.

The guys at CRC say it's driver preference with regards to the links. The top European driver at the Snowbirds with a Knife used the stock one-piece units in the A-mod main. The top CRC stock driver also used the stock one-piece units. I swiched back as well.
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