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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-16-2004, 10:57 PM   #6751
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Ditch the side springs on the CRC T bars cars and run tweak screws. Thats what McMahon did on his Six Pack and now his T-Fource.

If you run Mod run dbl pink fronts and pink rears with a .075 AE T-bar all 3 screws in back and a green center spring on the shock. Losi Med hydradrive fluid in the damper tubes.

For stock run purple fronts and white rears with a .075 AE T-bar 2 outer screws in back and a green or silver (more steering) center spring on the shock. Losi Med hydradrive fluid in the damper tubes.

Up front run .020" springs shimmed os the bottom e clip just slides on with no spring tension...i.e. no preload.

The AE front end is crooked....just shim it for equal caster. Crooked or not it works great.
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:59 PM   #6752
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Just wondering where are you guys getting the hydra drive fluid, I havent seen it in a loooong time...
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:57 AM   #6753
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I don't know where to get hydradrive fluid, but CRC has their own and it coms in thick or not so thick.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:16 AM   #6754
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Default New Peak/Orion motors

have any of you tried to fit one of these new Peak Vantage (what I just got) or the Orion motors in a 12th scale yet? It's some interesting soldering...I'm actually thinking of soldering a battery bar or something to the negative lead to make it easier...

Anyone else have the same experience?
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:48 AM   #6755
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Default Asphalt set-up

Where's a good place to start with a T-plate car.
Springs:
T-plate:
Camber:
Tires:

Any one have a good start set-up?
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Old 02-17-2004, 11:00 AM   #6756
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Default Re: New Peak/Orion motors

Quote:
Originally posted by Brolzy
have any of you tried to fit one of these new Peak Vantage (what I just got) or the Orion motors in a 12th scale yet? It's some interesting soldering...I'm actually thinking of soldering a battery bar or something to the negative lead to make it easier...

Anyone else have the same experience?
actually it's pretty easy... just take the brush wire and put it on the bottom side of the brush holder then solder both leads to the top of the flange for the brush holder. I ran my 10x1 orion at the region 3 on road race and if I would of had the light springs it would of made time and not dumped so bad. the fun part was the wheelie I made down the straight when I tapped the outside wall. I'll see if I can get a picture of it later when I get home.
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Old 02-17-2004, 11:05 AM   #6757
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Ditch the side springs on the CRC T bars cars and run tweak screws. Thats what McMahon did on his Six Pack and now his T-Fource.
even frank himself ditched the side springs on his t-fource at cleveland.
http://www.nashrcracer.com/cleveland...astshots14.htm
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow — never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long — you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:10 PM   #6758
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On the Bloody Knife, how do you tighten the center pivot ball (the one in the football CF piece)?

It came loose twice this weekend. Should I use a steel or Ti screw and loctite it?
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:36 PM   #6759
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Hy everybody, i'm new to your 12th forum and i want you help to choose the good stuff to do The Final Championship in Europe.I race since 11 years but i never ran a 12th.I don't worry for my driving i race 1/8thIC and Pro10...If possible drop me the good car where i have not to change all the car on a accident

Thank
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:51 PM   #6760
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
On the Bloody Knife, how do you tighten the center pivot ball (the one in the football CF piece)?

It came loose twice this weekend. Should I use a steel or Ti screw and loctite it?
I use a steel screw and loctite that puppy down. Hasn't come loose since then although I do check it after every run.
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:06 PM   #6761
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Thanks nashrcracer...I'll try that. A wheelie with a 1/12th scaler? I don't want to think about how that ended....LOL
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:51 PM   #6762
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Quote:
Originally posted by SPEEDx971
Hy everybody, i'm new to your 12th forum and i want you help to choose the good stuff to do The Final Championship in Europe.I race since 11 years but i never ran a 12th.I don't worry for my driving i race 1/8thIC and Pro10...If possible drop me the good car where i have not to change all the car on a accident

Thank
For a link car, most run CRC carpet knife 3.2 or SpeedMerchant Rev3. Probably faster for stock.

For a t-bar car it seams to be the IRS rug rat, based on the Associated 12L3. Better for mod too.

Diff - either CRC or IRS large ring for both mod and stock.

Pivot balls - run either the niftech bronze ones or the teflon impregneted aluminum, both for the t-plate (if that's your car) and the front end on the "new style" parts.

There is some debate about the front ends. Some swear by the "old skool" front end. No reactive caster, but the general concensus is that it will not tweek, is more robust, and is more consistent, run to run.

I run the "new style" reactive caster. I feal it is more consistent fealing in and out of the corner. I've not had a problem with tweek, but then I'm not a top tier racer in 1/12th. It also needs more care and maintenance. It's not as adjustable as they say either - to get the caster the same left to right you need to shim them differently. Apparently the Caster blocks are not well molded.

Motors - depends on track and class. Monster for stock is probably the best starting point.

ESC - I like the LRP Quantum Comp, small and very smooth. Some run the Novak GT7 with success. Although you will have a different selection in Europe. I think GM has a good reputation.

Bodies - Parma speed 8, CEFX, Ascari, etc are all popluar for stock. The speed 8 more for mod.

A lot depends on if you will run mod or stock.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:07 PM   #6763
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Thanks a lot Sands
I'd like race in stock but in Europe .we use only 6 cell and that enought...$$$$$$, sino if i run modified, it's just for the fun because i can't expest win front of Spashet and other best europeen driver. But it's my way so i'll take it.
In Europe for the ESC,don't worry LRP is very popular and more than GM.
But the car you advised to me, i've a little blem because the CRC do not popular here because it's fast but strongly difficult to set and we don't know the speedmarchant here.
I work for become a distributor of US car as part AE and losi....
But i take long on your advise but if you can help me more on the choice for the car,i'll appreciate
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:28 PM   #6764
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brolzy
Thanks nashrcracer...I'll try that. A wheelie with a 1/12th scaler? I don't want to think about how that ended....LOL
not as good as Blackstock did when he hit a warped board at the snowbirds. he just didn't count for a lap since he did the wheelie over the wire for the lap counting system.

I stressed my 6 pack chassis that I prepped back in november for cleveland. spent 2 hours sanding and milling on the chassis only to kill it as I came down into a cart wheel at the end of the straight. didn't break the tplate though.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:34 PM   #6765
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Quote:
Originally posted by SPEEDx971
Thanks a lot Sands
I'd like race in stock but in Europe .we use only 6 cell and that enought...$$$$$$, sino if i run modified, it's just for the fun because i can't expest win front of Spashet and other best europeen driver. But it's my way so i'll take it.
In Europe for the ESC,don't worry LRP is very popular and more than GM.
But the car you advised to me, i've a little blem because the CRC do not popular here because it's fast but strongly difficult to set and we don't know the speedmarchant here.
I work for become a distributor of US car as part AE and losi....
But i take long on your advise but if you can help me more on the choice for the car,i'll appreciate
for parts in europe I would suggest Corally. it's still a great car in the right hands. the other option is to find out what is running at the local track and hobby shops. being the only one with a certian car can be a pain when you break a part that you have to order to get back in the race.
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow — never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long — you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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