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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-16-2004, 01:24 PM   #6736
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D

I almost made a 'get a t-bar car' joke for CypressMidWest's benefit... but decided against it.
That's why I love ya Mike!!! BTW He wouldn't be having this problem if he'd bought the "right" link car!!

I agree that the body has little to due with Mid corner to exit steering in Low Speed situations, but in high speed cornering the body plays a BIG role all the way through the corner. The set-up he's using sounds pretty close to what I ran on my Knife when I ran one, the only difference being the body, and the damper fluid. I ran the Proto Nissan because the Proto Bentley felt unstable.
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:26 PM   #6737
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softening up the car will make it turn in a little quicker yes but it will plant the car in the rear comming out of the corner you are complaining of an oversteering problem exiting the corners arent you!
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:38 PM   #6738
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The rear is planted coming out of the corner, it just feels very twitchy coming out of the corners in the lower speed sections. High speed corners are no problems (sweepers are perfect).

Blake
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:43 PM   #6739
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then try a little toe out if you dont have any, also narrow the rear track with if you can to get rid of that twitchyness use less castor ( standup a little) and see what happens!
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:51 PM   #6740
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off-topic-kind-of-isnt it amazing how these little 12th scale cars can be so demanding to get right-but once you dial it into your track and especially your driving style-WHAM!!! The most rewarding RC cars to drive.

An easy to drive 12th scale car that also carries its corner speed can be hard to dial in sometimes-even for the best drivers. Look at the Birds-A lot of GReat drivers in 12th stock-but Smyka's car was just flat out faster than everyone elses that weekend.

Gotta love 12th scale.

Ray
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:54 PM   #6741
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dr_hfuhuhurr,

Yes do what Hector said and try some toe out, like 1/2 degree. That will give it a bit more turn-in, but it won't steer as much mid to corner exit. You could also try a little less camber in the front.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:23 PM   #6742
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ray i whish you could try my quad twelve.
just wish i had some of you chickeys speed!
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:35 PM   #6743
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I run the L3 in stock with a Yokomo body.I find it has a slight advantage over the Nissan body for mid to high speed cornering but no noticable difference low speed, I do however find the car to be twitchy on the straightaway and the toe is set to 0 deg.I am wondering what are some guys thoughts on the steel T plates and what advantage/ disadvantage they have.I am considering one.
I find a slight advantage to running the IRS rear lowering plates as I can run my tires at 45mm rear giving me a bit less rotating mass but chunking seems to be a problem more so than not.
Can someone tell me if there is any advantage to running a seperate receiver pack eliminating BEC in stock and 19 turn or would the difference be un-noticable.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:41 PM   #6744
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
ray i whish you could try my quad twelve.
just wish i had some of you chickeys speed!
I dont know about that-I think I showed you how to build a pretty fast and VERY efficient motor for 12th scale at the Birds!! YOU just need to actually charge your batteries and make it to your qualifiers-DOH!!!

YOur Quad 12 looked dialed. Bring it to the Nats and put it in the show!!!

Ray
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:00 PM   #6745
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any of you have problems with the molding on the AE front arms? me and my friends were comparing it and notice that they are not semetrical at all. it didnt really affect handling since ive been driving like that for a long time. but just wondering if theres anything besides using the old school front a arms cuz i hate them.

another thing is how to take away the push of the car? i have a CRC 6 pack with .020 springs in the middle, silver middle spring, CRC graphite T plate which is a bit harder on the up and down flex but softer on the side to side flex. im running purple fronts and grey rears! i tried saucing more in the front, helps in the first half of the race, then traction wears off a little.
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:57 PM   #6746
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IRS makes a set.

If you do some web searches for oval parts you can find 10* machines aluminum caster blocks as well as 0*. I think GPM might make a set as well.
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Old 02-16-2004, 05:00 PM   #6747
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Is that the ultra-heavy silver spring (extremely hard to compress by hand)? If its the softer one you should go up to like a gold or even red center spring. That should help. Run a regular .075 T-bar, the softer side to side flex from the graphite could be giving you a push. You could also try the silva spring steel t-plate. Also what traction compound are you using? You should be using Paragon, the Niftech stuff, or TQ Max 8 min (red).
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:55 PM   #6748
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
That may be my problem then...Corally Hard dampner fluid is probably too thick then.
dr_hfuhuhurr - As far as damper tube dampening:
More dampening = less entry steering and more midcorner/exit steering
Less dampening = more entry steering and less midcorner/exit steering
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:06 PM   #6749
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Just finished up my dynamic front end, used the IRS kingpins and pivot balls and actually got some binding, used my mill to ream out the pivot balls a hair and it feels good now. Shooters had my chassis pieces on backorder, so I'm still waiting for their arrival, unfortunately the car wont get turned red until after the california carpet champs
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:34 PM   #6750
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian McGreevy
Is that the ultra-heavy silver spring (extremely hard to compress by hand)? If its the softer one you should go up to like a gold or even red center spring. That should help. Run a regular .075 T-bar, the softer side to side flex from the graphite could be giving you a push. You could also try the silva spring steel t-plate. Also what traction compound are you using? You should be using Paragon, the Niftech stuff, or TQ Max 8 min (red).
i think those springs are hard, they arent that easy to press. i use paragon wintergreen smelling traction compound
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