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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-28-2002, 05:57 PM   #661
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dave - thanks man...

Quote:
Originally posted by darnold
Kobobek- Not sure but I think Foams and I were discussing this a page or so ago. It was more about how to lay the servo down on the chassis plate for increased steering. I think Foams may have mentioned how you could use a standard servo but you may have to check over the last few pages or so. My advise if you have to use a standard servo is to use the CRC Adjustable Mounts so that you can widen the mounts to fit the larger servo if the stock mounts won't allow the servo to sit between them. Then put the servo in front of the blocks so that you have more room for the larger servo. This will probably mean that you have to mount the ball stud on the back of the servo saver so make sure you get full lock to lock turning radius. Hope this helps.-Dave Arnold
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Old 03-01-2002, 12:36 AM   #662
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Foams- Mention me as a reference. You're not out of line, no problem, hope things work out. Did you see all of those typos, aaaaahhhhh.

Kevin- Hope you make the NORRCA Nat's I think I will be there this year so that will be fun if you and Rob are there. When you get your Trinity car let me know and I will tell/show you everything I did to mine although you know more about suspension setup in general than I do. Tonight went well. Jucha ran fast with a Ti 8turn which was faster than mine but we never timed myself and we never timed him for more than 4min because traffic was really, really bad. We ran together for about a minute nose to tail once before I pulled off. That was about all that came of it. Check out my next post for more info on my evening.
Kobo-Glad to help come and post often please.
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Old 03-01-2002, 01:15 AM   #663
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IMPORTANT LESSONS- It seems that in the quest to go faster no matter how hard I work and how much I research I still learn something new and still make dumb mistakes. Tonight is a case in point and hopefully this will help everyone else as well.

Start off with the car being pretty good. I have been noticing the past two weeks from the Grand Rapids race until now that my car has been a little inconsistent, a little harder to drive where I am making little bobbles here and there but nothing that would kill a run. I figure it's me and my schedule of late. I have also noticed that my car is starting to not hold it's tweak and chalk it up to a t-bar although careful examination shows no fatigue spots. I also notice that I still only run 6.5-7min with the new Quantum and rx pack in and chalk it up to the main pack being charged on Monday and not having been run until tonight. The heatsink on it is cool as a cucumber.

Second run I am out and Jucha comes out so we get to run together for about a min. Then my spur strips and I am not sure why but I did get beat around some by the newbie TC's and chalk it up to that.

Third run I go out and due to some Trucks on foam tires being overly aggressive, and non considerate (using reverse and jumping the track) I have my chassis split in the front when I nail a TC that was knocked over the track by one of these trucks and is dead in the middle of the straight!!!! On top of that I strip another spur!!! Needless to say I am steaming so I go back to the pits to repair the chassis. I wind up being even more furious when I realize that three runs have been ruined and I am running out of practice time.

First off I find out that the stripped spurs were due to the bearing that they ride on moving into the hub from the impacts with the TC's. This was able to happen because I had removed the inner flanged bearing when another had gone bad and hadn't replaced it yet. I just bought some a couple of days ago so in goes a flange and that problem is solved.
Next I fix the chassis and have it actually looking new again but this took about an 45min. Then while I am doing this I notice that one of my ball studs for the upper links is bent!!! It turns out that when one of the originals broke at the treads about 3wks ago I replaced them with the type of ball studs that make up the damper tube mounts on the motor pod top plate. These type of studs have screws that go into them and the screw being aluminum had bent! I undo the front suspension and replace both of the aluminum screws with steel ones and tweak the car.

Fourth Run- AWESOME!!!!! All of a sudden I have no tweak problem, the car gained noticable corner speed, and it became WAY easy to drive and I go 9min with my 9turn!!!
Fifth Run- Last run so I put in the 8turn and time my run. I go 8min on the head with a 500sec/20amps pack of HV's!!!!!
Lessons: The bent suspension mounting point was binding the car up just enough so that it was loosing MAJOR EFFICIENCY of about 1-1.5min!!! Also, it was making the car tweaked and harder to drive!!! Even WORST I had fallen prey to the dreaded COMPENSATING ERROR (or what I call "driving around the car") and what makes this so bad is that I didn't realize it was happening which is usually what happens it seems like. I also learned with the differential that I needed to run that inner flanged bearing, better now then later. Some things are best left stock! Finally, I was missing out on a lot of fun and performance due to a few simple things. Grant it there was a lot of commotion with the track and drivers stand tonight being packed almost everytime I went out. People running out on the track and blocking my view making me drive corners blind. And others just being downright wrong with their playing out on the track although it was probably unbeknownst to them what the consequences were as three of us including Jucha broke our chassis due to them slamming into us or someone else which caused them to have a dire altercation with us. Even with all of this the little things still count and must be watched and even when it seems like we're running well we may not be running as well as we can. Hope this encourages and motivates people to put a little more time into their rides and keep an eye on them. I should no better, oh well might as well laugh at myself. LOL
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Old 03-01-2002, 11:03 AM   #664
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Default 12L3 Manual

Does any one have a copy of the 12L3 manual? I bought a used 12L3 with no manual and I want to tear it down and rebuild it from scrach! I dont care if its a online copy that can be e-mailed! Thanks
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Old 03-01-2002, 12:43 PM   #665
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Default 12L3 Manual

APR - you should check the Associated Website. I think it is www.rc10.com They have these manuals there that can be viewed, downloaded and copied. Good luck.
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Old 03-01-2002, 04:34 PM   #666
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Up^^^^
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Old 03-01-2002, 05:04 PM   #667
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Darnold....Just goes to show..its in the details.....clean bearings....smooth pivots......nothing binding....... .......are you running an Associated??????if so...do you run the cross brace on the front end?????
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Old 03-03-2002, 01:49 PM   #668
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Nope, I run the new Trinity car. Just finished racing last night in our first 12th mod class since the summer. Ran well. Jucha ran stock and really went on a terror almost going 40 laps. Jucha went 39/ 8:099!! Bob I think qualified with a 39/ 8:10 and James did a fast 38. Good job by those guys. So we had 3 heats of 12th. Pretty good considering everyone didn't show up due to the snow storm.
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Old 03-03-2002, 01:53 PM   #669
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dave did you get my other PM? I plan to contact them on monday. Is there a recommended method of contact?
IKE
P.S.Got all my stuff loaded up on my Switchblade just waiting on my Quantum comp. and I need to build a receiver pack.
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Old 03-03-2002, 02:21 PM   #670
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Foams- Got one but if you sent another I haven't got it yet. i just got home from two days away about an hour ago. Best contact method IMO is e-m first. Yeah I had a really good day yesterday and the car is really good.
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Old 03-03-2002, 02:27 PM   #671
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Dave,

I picked up one of your old motors from some kid that ai it was yours, it only had a few cuts on it and he said you dyno tuned it. I don't know if this is true or not, but either way it was super fast, even though I hardly got to run due to a-holes not turning their radios off. I didn't even run the the main because of such problems. After ging through the pits and turning off 2 radios that were on my fequency, I discovered that and esc wire was knocked loose due to the hits it took during the glitching, soit was turning itself on and off when the wire wobbled around. So I got it back together and ran a pack through it when all the mains were through with, and ran with another mod 12th scale who turned a 38/8:02 that night (not the fastest by the way) and had more power everywhere, and he had a p94 9x2. well I made about 9min with a 36 rollout, I measure tire diameter in mm's, (millimeters, not the candy). I was happier than a 2-peckered billygoat with this motor. So I think I got somethin for 'em next week.

my brother's (Dave S) traction roll problms were cured. His car was too high off the ground, about 6 mm's of ride hieght! He ran a new Core 11x2 last night but either it was under geard or was slow because had a good line and was consistley a second behind the leaders.

Do rx pack really make a big difference? do they even compensate for the extra weight, because right now, my car is actually too heavy.
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Old 03-03-2002, 02:36 PM   #672
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dave,
I just sent you an e-m using the link in your tool bar thingie. I dont know if that works or not but it is on the way.
IKE
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Old 03-03-2002, 02:43 PM   #673
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Petinis- Rule of thumb is that you use one if you are under or at weight or using an LRP/GM speedo. The LRP Quantums and GM's V12worlds even though they now come with a BEC still keep the main packs voltage up longer and better if you use an rx pack. Cyclone's actually seem to get hurt by the rx pack because their BEC is supposedly a little stronger. Actually now for 12th mod most guys don't even worry about being an ounce over weight. I'm about .75oz over with the rx pack accounting for .5oz of it. The LRP Quantum and KO rx help a lot in keeping the weight down along with the JR Z3550 servo and the new Trinity car design.
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Old 03-03-2002, 02:51 PM   #674
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Oh, I forgot to let everyone know that the HV's that I use are about an ounce heavier than SMH's so if SMC was still doing SMH'a and I used those (I probably wouldn't because of the extra runtime of the HV's IMO) I would actually be under weight by about .25oz. Concerning the motor Petenis, if it was mine it was probably a 10turn. I sold off a bunch of D4's and a couple of my Ti's at this past Oktoberfast. They were all stuff I paid for with my own funds so it was ok. I think that the P94 of your friend was probably miss-tuned or wrongly geared. The P94's seem to make their power in a higher part of the rev range than the Ti's and if you gear too tall than you miss all of the mechanical torque on the track and wind up running under the max power part of the curve. I am currently testing some P94's for Integy since they are under consideration for possibly offering them. I am running my 9turn P94 at 23/100 which is a good tooth to tooth and a half under what I normally run our Ti 9turns and the P94 10turn I am gearing the Same!!! This is a good two-three teeth under what I normally gear the our 10turn Ti's!! What is your actual gear and tire size?
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Old 03-03-2002, 09:28 PM   #675
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So how was everyone's race weekend? Slight correction on the results of our saturday night racing: Bob went 38 at 8 min flat instead of what I posted which was a slow 39 lapper. People were really fast getting ready for the 4th U.S. Triple Crown Series Race at Indy. Who's going to that one and who's going to the ROAR Carpet Nationals in California? I'm going to both it looks like.
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