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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-15-2004, 10:08 PM   #6706
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Default Anyone have this???

Hi -

I saw this chassis set on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EBWA%3AIT&rd=1

and was wondering if anyone has this or knows anyone who has experience with this...

Apparently it's from HK

There is a website although it's not really helpful...

http://www.pk9394.com/index.html


So if you can help me out with advice on this I would be most appreciative.

cheers

Dave

Last edited by F1Junkie; 02-15-2004 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 02-15-2004, 10:26 PM   #6707
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Hi Dave, That chassis set looks cool, but is going to be a flexi-fly on carpet. It's probably pretty good on asphalt.
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:36 PM   #6708
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Quote:
Originally posted by disaster999
i like being orginal and use yokomo rims!
and where do you find those elusive yokomo rims ;-). i love the rims that the YRX 12 comes with but i dont see them anywhere.
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:30 AM   #6709
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Default Best on the market?

I am interested in getting a 1/12th scale racer but not sure which one I should go for. Anybody got any ideas on what is the best on the market at the moment?

Cheers
Scott

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Old 02-16-2004, 03:32 AM   #6710
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Quote:
Originally posted by icon
and where do you find those elusive yokomo rims ;-). i love the rims that the YRX 12 comes with but i dont see them anywhere.
its really hard to find them. i have a friend who bought the yok 12th and cames with tires. he gave them to me and im just reusing them ever since! trying not to hit the tires too much on the track! want them to last!

the only place i could think of where you could buy them is in asia! but not all online shops have them!
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:33 AM   #6711
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Default Re: Best on the market?

Quote:
Originally posted by acutts
I am interested in getting a 1/12th scale racer but not sure which one I should go for. Anybody got any ideas on what is the best on the market at the moment?

Cheers
Scott

the most pop car around here is the CRC bloody knife or the six pack! i would wait till AE comes out with the 12L4 and see how that car runs!
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:02 AM   #6712
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Ran my Bloody Knife this weekend for the first time and it's nice but fragile.

I broke in 1 race day:

2 side links
2 side link balls
Bent rear axle
Lost 4 screws from the car.

How do I:
1. Strengthen the side links (go speedmerchant style?)
2. Can the Axle be straightened?
3. Keep the screws in place? (replace with steel and use loctite?)


Blake
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:08 AM   #6713
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Ran my Bloody Knife this weekend for the first time and it's nice but fragile.

I broke in 1 race day:

2 side links
2 side link balls
Bent rear axle
Lost 4 screws from the car.

How do I:
1. Strengthen the side links (go speedmerchant style?)
2. Can the Axle be straightened?
3. Keep the screws in place? (replace with steel and use loctite?)
Blake
1. RPM makes side links identical to the CRC ones - but thicker. I think they are they RC10 or RC10T steering links.

2. No

3. Never heard of that - but yes. Use the lightest locktite you can find. Purple I think - not sure though.

You must have hit something pretty hard - are you running mod? I will proactivly change some of the parts on my cars to prevent bending parts in a race. The link pivot balls I change every 5 race days or so. Same with the left rear a-arm on my x-ray ( I hit the outside pipe on the back straight now and then.)
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:08 AM   #6714
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Blake: there is a real easy fix...

The ratio of hitting the boards to parts breakage is to high.
If you low one, the other will lower also.

J/K

I don't think you will have much luck with the axle..$$$
Did you break the side links or did they pop off?


I bet you had a cool body on it though!
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:19 AM   #6715
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Car was killer fast and it did look good. I had WAY too much steering I think. I'm going to get it back together and try again this weekend.

I Broke the hex balls for the side links. I also broke the side links themselves. I read on CRC's forum that they had a problem with them so I'll send the broken ones back for replacement. I will probably convert it to the Speedmerchant style.

I know I have to lower my hacking ratio...I was doing pretty good for the first weekend out.

Blake
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:23 AM   #6716
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Ran my Bloody Knife this weekend for the first time and it's nice but fragile.

I broke in 1 race day:

2 side links
2 side link balls
Bent rear axle
Lost 4 screws from the car.

How do I:
1. Strengthen the side links (go speedmerchant style?)
2. Can the Axle be straightened?
3. Keep the screws in place? (replace with steel and use loctite?)


Blake
Holy Smokes! i thought i broke alot of stuff. one way to stop breaking your car is to use Jaco wheels. they sacrafice themselves every time you hit something! some much as tap a board or get clipped by another car and you will see a wheel bouncing down the staight. they are noble wheels,bravely throwing themselves in harms way to save a $2 upper arm

Jaco sucks
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:35 AM   #6717
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Blake, just giving you a hard time...

Talk to John @ CRC, he will help you out...

I know a lot of the guys use longer screws for the side link pivot balls. Some of the stock ones are to short and break easy.

If you go the Speedmerchant style links, you can use a screw & pivot ball that goes all the way through the pivot ball...

Also, dump most of the Alum. screws and use steal.

Try the O'l Skool front end also. It will calm the steering down a little and take A LOT more abuse than the dynamic strut.
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:40 AM   #6718
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I was using the Old style front end.

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Old 02-16-2004, 08:41 AM   #6719
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what tires where you running?

standard: Purple front/Grey rear?

WHere you using any caster shims?
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:46 AM   #6720
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Here we go...

CRC Bloody Knife 3.1

Old style front end
.020 springs
2* Caster Shims
Purple Front Tires (CRC)
Grey Rear Tires (CRC)
White Side Springs
80wt Oil w/ CRC Copper Spring
Protoform Speed 8 Reg Wt. Body
Monster Stock
98t Spur
1.80" Rollout

Car was had too much steering mid corner and Exit. The track was Ultra Racing in Cinci, Ohio. They have new CRC Ozite (Cleveland Stuff).

Blake
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Last edited by dr_hfuhuhurr; 02-16-2004 at 11:13 AM.
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