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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-12-2004, 09:56 PM   #6691
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Dp you have a great memory. I just rebuilt the car and replaced the plates with a new set that I had and they are tweaked just like you said. Ill put the old ones back on and check it out. I know Im trying to turn an old piece into a diamond but this thing is fast when its working. Especially with the AE ft end on it its awesome. It carries speed through the corner thats unbelieveable.The old ft end to it was a mess as sson as you looked at it it got all tweaked out of shape and had to be straightened every time I ran it. I got my eye on a new car but wanted to get this one straightened out before it sits on the backup car shelf.
www.victoryhobbies.com Greenbay, Wisconsin

Last edited by Speedie; 02-12-2004 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 02-13-2004, 05:28 AM   #6692
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I just put a Quantum 2 in my Carpet Knife 3.1. What settings should I start out with? I don't have a clue where to start.

"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
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Old 02-13-2004, 08:35 AM   #6693
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Hey guys, I have this great new idea that Ive been kicking around with the Pro10 guys, and I didnt want to leave you out of the mix: U.S. Road Course Championships

here is what I have come up with:

Pro10 6 cell stock
Pro10 4 cell 19t
pro10 6 cell mod (no motor limit)
Pro10 6 cell touring/gt1 (tamiya f103LM will be in this class)
Pro12 4 cell stock
Pro12 4 cell 19t
Pro12 4 cell mod (again no motor limit)
Pro12 6 cell stock

That sound like a good list?
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Old 02-13-2004, 08:54 AM   #6694
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Originally posted by RCsilly
Hey Adam ,
Mod 1/12th friday at Larrys ?

Bob, Mod 1/12th tonight for sure!!!!!!! See you there!!!!
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Old 02-13-2004, 08:57 AM   #6695
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Speedie - Didn't you say that another person in your group had the same problem at the same location on the track? If so, I suggest raising the car for it might be catching the track surface in that spot. Rock on!
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:04 AM   #6696
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It just seems to do it whenever it wants to. The car was tracking to the left as the new pod plated are off a little I put the old ones back in and it does the same thing. It doesnt do it all of the time tho. about 50 percent of the time.
www.victoryhobbies.com Greenbay, Wisconsin
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:32 AM   #6697
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Check all of the parts that align the rear pod to the chassis. (Not sure if you have a t-plate or a pivot ball car)

Any deterioration of the mounting holes on the t-plate or pivot ball sockets or chassis holes for the pivot ball screws can cause a miss-alignment in the rear pod.

Same goes for the pivot ball car, just different parts.

Sorry to say - but you might need a new chassis if one of the holes is in any way oblong.
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Old 02-13-2004, 06:56 PM   #6698
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To those guys that are using Ko PDS-947FET digital servo, does your servo buzzes at neutral? Does it stay buzz at neutral? Because I'm not sure if mine is ok or not, it sometimes buzz at neutral and sometimes it doesn't. I'm using the new Ko PDS-949ICS by the way...

I know digital servo buzz...
Muchmore l AHRP l Xenon l Futaba
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:03 PM   #6699
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i have a Futaba 9550 digital in my TC that does that, but have had no problems for over 1 year.

by slightly touching the controller wheel it well start or stop
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Old 02-14-2004, 02:51 AM   #6700
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my sanwa erg-wrx servo does the same thing, i think its got something to do with the hrs and the responsiveness of it.....it doesnt cause any problems.
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Old 02-14-2004, 04:13 AM   #6701
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Default Old Skool Front End

Put one on my carpet knife last night, I LOVE IT. Consistant and easier for me to drive. Its a keeper. I did add a 2 dagree castor shim for a little more stability.

David Root
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Old 02-14-2004, 05:00 PM   #6702
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whats up with the new Jaco front rims? i have never seen such a brittle rim. one or two taps into some thing and they crack in the hubs where the bearings sit. i got cliped by a TC during practice-another broken rim. its not that i hit too much stuff because i dont and this has never happend with other wheels. all i have availible are Jaco. time to order something else
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:01 PM   #6703
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Originally posted by sean
whats up with the new Jaco front rims? i have never seen such a brittle rim. one or two taps into some thing and they crack in the hubs where the bearings sit. i got cliped by a TC during practice-another broken rim. its not that i hit too much stuff because i dont and this has never happend with other wheels. all i have availible are Jaco. time to order something else
I take it you mean the white wheels? I've given up on Jaco for now and gone to TRC, despite the yellow wheels. I like the fact that the wheels seem to be made of a better plastic, plus, I like the multi-compound tires.
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Old 02-15-2004, 12:27 AM   #6704
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i like being orginal and use yokomo rims!
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:15 AM   #6705
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i am going to use the CRC Track Magnets next time. they too seem to be made of a much stronger plastic. the inner rim where the bearing sits is twice as thick as the Jacos. $20 for new rims everytime i hit a board or get clipped is absurd. no one else at my track runs Jaco and now i know why.
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