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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-09-2004, 01:19 PM   #6646
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is it true that the CRC heavy dampening fluid the same as losi medium hydra fluid?
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Old 02-09-2004, 07:41 PM   #6647
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Default 1/12th scale 4WD pan car

Nice work Pro-Ten Holland.I really liked the fact that you did away with the dreaded tape that is typically used to hold the batteries in place.
A question for everyone out there:does anybody know if there is a site or other internet source that contains the FULL regulations that one should regard when designing a 12th scale pan car?If there isn't such a thing,does anybody own an official book containing those info?Would he be kind enough to scan it for all the members of the global 12th scale community to read?
Wouldn't it be a good idea if there was a sector of www.rctech.net containing all the regs(with every little bit of detail) for every form of r/c car racing(e.g in pdf format),or have direct links to where they are located.
I have already searced for complete IFMAR rules,but the only thing I found were some abstracts of them.
To all of those that would try to help:thanks in advance.
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Old 02-10-2004, 03:32 AM   #6648
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Default pro 10 finished

I've posted a few pictures of my finished car here:
I've just completed it.
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Old 02-10-2004, 05:25 AM   #6649
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who makes a thrust race that would work in this
Attached Files
File Type: pdf thrust bearing.pdf (44.9 KB, 288 views)
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:57 AM   #6650
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kyoso have one that is 5x10x4 you can use


F4-10G -43 if you us this you will need to bearing to get one with the size 4.15 inside.

F5-10G -43

Last edited by alf.skaar; 02-10-2004 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:00 AM   #6651
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Hi don'tfeelcold.Found sth that might help.Look for parts A-3125
from Team Losi for the GTX truck(in fact they are the same for every losi vehicle using the same'ol single disk slipper clutch(look at the exploded view here:http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/exploded/gtx.pdf).Just test fitted them on my trinity switchblade and they are ok.
Good Luck!
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Old 02-10-2004, 08:26 AM   #6652
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Skid, Doesn't that 3125 look a little on the big side?
Doesn't look like the wheel will fit over it.
The 7103 on the other hand looks more like the ones Alf mentioned above.
That one will most likely fit through the wheel.

Oppps, meant #3071...
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:37 AM   #6653
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Hey Mag,I think you are right.The pdf shows a Stealth II assembly for a 12th scale car.I tested in a 10th scale rear switchblade axle and thought it would be ok for a 1/12 scale stealth I tranny where you have to dissasemble the rear diff to change wheel.So yes,it won't work with a Stealth II type transmission,but it would be ok with a stealth I.
By the way,I feel that with the larger thrust bearing you can attain smoother diff action.It would be good to see a rear diff with enlarged wheel opening that would allow for the use of a the bigger thrust,while still maintaining the ability to have the right wheel changed without dissasembly?What do you think of this idea?
Sorry for the inconvenience don't feel cold.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:10 AM   #6654
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Yeah, there's a lot to be said about the diff design... Personally I feel mighty jealous of the Corally guys who can more or less throw on their whole diff and wheel assembly in like 2 secs. But, on the other hand, they can't adjust their diff with the wheel on and.. Boy are those wheels ugly
No, I'm not bashing you Corally dudes. I actually have a few myself. so there.
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:37 AM   #6655
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To All:
This group looks pretty friendly and helpfull lately, and I need a little help from all of you. I raced at the Snowbirds this past week and was unfortunate to have my modified 1/12 car taken from my pit during time when I was away. I have included a description, so if anyone sees it or any of the parts, I would appreciate some information regarding who has it and where to get ahold of them. Thanks, David Lee, Greenwood, Indiana

1) IRS 1/12 scale RugRat Chassis – black, original prototype
2) LRP Quantum 2 Speed Control
3) 2- channel Airtronics Micro Receiver – ch81
4) 94145 Airtronics servo
5) Raceway servo mount – anodized black
6) Silva center shock – anodized black, special end cap also black
7) Top pod plate counter sunk mounting holes
8) IRS rear pod plates – black
9) IRS rear axle/differential assembly – black
10) Kimbrough 100T spur gear
11) Kimbrough 25T pinion gear
12) Associated .075 fiber glass T-plate – marked .075
13) IRS purple antenna mount
14) IRS purple caster blocks
15) IRS machined front upper suspension arms
16) IRS front king pins
17) IRS ball pivots for king pins
18) IRS ball pivots for T-plate
19) Parma front axles
20) Reedy PT 8x2 modified motor with 10x2 armature
21) BSR purple front tires
22) BSR pink rear tires (with + marked on the pink dot)
23) AMB transponder 9338485

Last edited by davidl; 02-10-2004 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:46 AM   #6656
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David ,
Man that really sux, I sure hope it turns up , hey are you going to the CRL race in Homer in 2 weeks ? I look forward to running with you again ............
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:55 AM   #6657
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This seems to be a BIG problem at the major races now...Whoever is doing this should be rammed in the nuts by a nice insane speed run car
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:01 PM   #6658
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I'd suggest throwing up a post in a sale sections here, at hobbytalk and watching ebay.

If the moron that took your car is stupid, you might see the transponder show up. You can't change the numbers on them. Did you get all of your black parts custom annodized? Might also be a clue.

really sucks dude, you'd think that they would have a check in/out process kind of like a coat check for this stuff. There has to be $400 or more on your car.

I'd also send a nasty letter to the organizers of the race.... They should assume some responsibility for this.
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Old 02-10-2004, 05:41 PM   #6659
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sands--The hotel says upfront that they are not responsible for stolen goods and the race directors have no controll over this.

david--sorry to hear that man. I will be watching hobbytalk and ebay even more than usual and if I see something I'll send you an email.

The fact that this has happened at multiple races tells me that a racer would have to be doing this. If that is the case we all know that this stuff is not cheap so who would be low enough to steal another racers gear. They should burn for these acts.
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Old 02-10-2004, 06:30 PM   #6660
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Default I'll be watching

Sorry to hear about your misfortune David. Along with Adam, I'll be watching out for your stuff.

I has happened to me a while back, even though it was not of that magnitude but it still sucks. Good luck to you partner.

Things like this should not happen.
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