R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-08-2004, 10:04 AM   #6616
Tech Addict
 
sean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 702
Default

---------- originally posted by skidrow-------------------------------------
-----I don't really think that a 1/12 scale 4WD car would be necessarily slower.If someone designed it in such an integrated way that it weighted a little more than a conventional car,you would have a car that would not only attain higher cornering speeds,because of the increased velocity that it could carry-------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

have you ever seen a 1/12 on carpet? they are simply ballistic. top drivers running only 4 cells can tur the same or faster lap times than 4wd cars with 6 cells. forget 1/12 for a minute. take 1/10 pan cars. they alot faster in turns and overall than 4wd sedans.no comparison. and in order to make a 4wd pan car you would have to alter the chassis,rear pod, and front end in such ways that it would no longer be pan car anyway. 4wd is more forgiving and do perform better on low bite or dusty asphalt surfaces,but again not many people run 1/12 on asphalt. they run on carpet. as i have already said 1/12 cars are not in need of traction or corner speed,in fact we use purple fronts and grey rears to loosen them up a bit because softer compounds have TOO MUCH bite.

Last edited by sean; 02-08-2004 at 10:39 AM.
sean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 10:23 AM   #6617
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 373
Default

It is tough to make run time with mod, the extra weight and drag created by 4WD system will be a nightmare,maybe practical when GP has some 4500mah cells in the future. For stock,I doubt you will benifit much from the xtra traction, I maybe wrong though.
You will need real aerodynamic knowledge and a windtunnel of some sort to make underbody and diffuser work, that means it will drive up the cost. Also underbody, diffuser are sensitive to tilt angle and ride height. This will make life more difficult for average racer, bad idea.
caveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 10:57 AM   #6618
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
Default 1/12 scale 4WD pan car

Sorry,my continent is called Europe,where we DO race a lot outdoors,in fact most of our races are outdoors.On the other hand you are very fortunate to live in a country that hosts every form of racing in a superb way,I would love it if I had the opportunity to watch & compete in 12th scale carpet races.1/12th scale cars are smaller(remember they are 1/12,not 1/10 like the touring cars you describe),and are built in a completely different way than pan cars,so they are not comparable.
I know what you mean by too much gip in the rear,but again if you had a 4WD pan car that had tractive/braking forces acting on
all four tires,you could make the rear tires less wide,and get rid of the drag that accompanies wider tires.The forward bite end overall feel of the car would be much more balanced,and less difficult to control when coming hard out of corners.Furthermore,keep in mind that current 1/12 scale pan cars use suspensions that resemble a full independent suspension in the front,such as the associated dynamic strut solution(I say "resemble" because,actually there isn't any lower front wishbone,it's just a plastic stand-off helping to retain the wheel at the correct height),that compared with the one-piece rear axle,are a great compromise as far as suspension/chassis design is concerned,because much of the suspension action is also provided from the tires.Tire diameters change in pan cars,as a result of ride height adjustments or transmission roll-out changes,resulting also in alterations of the roll stiffness of the car,because a foam tire of a given specific height,simply acts differently when subjected to lateral forces than a foam tire of lower/higher O.D.The overall picture,is that of a car that relies too much on it's rear end,and therefore would be reacting in a better way if some of the "communication" with the road,as far as accelerating and braking was done through the front tires.
As for the structural part,what I have in mind does not alter the car layout a lot,meaning that the rear T-pod can be retained.
Anyway I am thankful of your opinions,I am studying mechanical engineering,amd have working experience of the motorsport industry for 1/1 cars.I am thinking of creating such a car and I would like some input.If anyone has any photos or additional info on 4WD pan cars of the past(such as Kyosho Plazma or the Hirobo that was mentioned),could he/she be kind enough to post them?Just want to check out some details-I am not thinking of chain-drive.
Thank you for your opinions/experiences and your willingness to share them&good luck with your racing no matter if it's done on carpet or outdoors!
SkidRow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 11:29 AM   #6619
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 373
Default

You have some good points.Sorry can't find the photo, almost twenty years ago. but the drive train design and layout was very similar to HPI miniRS4(95% identical). But they used front oneway diff and different F/R drive ratio to compensate different F/R tyre OD.
caveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 11:40 AM   #6620
Tech Master
 
INFERN0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Langley, B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,904
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
So does anyone here still use a Novak Atom and if they do what are good settings on the Pit Wizard for stock?
__________________
Proudly driving for Kyosho America, Team Maclan and RC Pitstop
INFERN0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 11:58 AM   #6621
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sean
CRC CARPET KNIFE -i cant keep my right rear tire on the ground when making right turns. turning left is fine, when turning right the car whips around so fast it will make your head spin. it wasnt spinning out-more like making a tight bat turn. while doing so you can hear the inside rear tire lifting and spinning. i spent the better part of the day at the track with people much more expierienced than me trying to help me out-we tried everything. tweak is fine,brand new wheels,diff,bearings,dampener tubes-i mean everything we could change or adjust we tried. no luck. the only thing i could think of to try(ran out of time) was changing the front springs. i was thinking that if the left front spring went flat it could let the right rear tire lift when turning right.has any one else seen this before? could bad front springs cause this? what about tweak springs?
yes front springs wear out and colapse. I had that happen to me a couple weeks ago and i set my tweak with digital scales. couldn't figure it out to save my life. the other thing is check for bent hinge pin on the front and a bent axle. the last thing envolves taking the car off the chassis and putting it on a piece of glass to make sure for fact there is not tweak in the chassis or that the chassis has fatuiged and gone soft. had that happen after a nice tumble down the straight two weeks ago.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:04 PM   #6622
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default 1986 Hirobo Ashura



http://www.rc-car-museum.de/1_12_Mod...bo_ashura.html
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:05 PM   #6623
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Dang that thing looks like a dinosaur
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:06 PM   #6624
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Kyosho Fantom EP 4WD



http://www.rc-car-museum.de/1_12_Mod...m_ep_4_wd.html
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:09 PM   #6625
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default http://www.rc-car-museum.de/index.html

the site is sweet just wish the translator would work better....

http://www.rc-car-museum.de/index.html
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:28 PM   #6626
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

my personal fav saying off the site

The Lorbeeren brought then later the optima and its 448 subsequent variants in (e.g. the turbo optima Mid Custom Special pro).
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 12:32 PM   #6627
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: 1/12 scale 4WD pan car

Quote:
Originally posted by SkidRow
Sorry,my continent is called Europe,where we DO race a lot outdoors,in fact most of our races are outdoors.On the other hand you are very fortunate to live in a country that hosts every form of racing in a superb way,I would love it if I had the opportunity to watch & compete in 12th scale carpet races.1/12th scale cars are smaller(remember they are 1/12,not 1/10 like the touring cars you describe),and are built in a completely different way than pan cars,so they are not comparable.
I know what you mean by too much gip in the rear,but again if you had a 4WD pan car that had tractive/braking forces acting on
all four tires,you could make the rear tires less wide,and get rid of the drag that accompanies wider tires.The forward bite end overall feel of the car would be much more balanced,and less difficult to control when coming hard out of corners.Furthermore,keep in mind that current 1/12 scale pan cars use suspensions that resemble a full independent suspension in the front,such as the associated dynamic strut solution(I say "resemble" because,actually there isn't any lower front wishbone,it's just a plastic stand-off helping to retain the wheel at the correct height),that compared with the one-piece rear axle,are a great compromise as far as suspension/chassis design is concerned,because much of the suspension action is also provided from the tires.Tire diameters change in pan cars,as a result of ride height adjustments or transmission roll-out changes,resulting also in alterations of the roll stiffness of the car,because a foam tire of a given specific height,simply acts differently when subjected to lateral forces than a foam tire of lower/higher O.D.The overall picture,is that of a car that relies too much on it's rear end,and therefore would be reacting in a better way if some of the "communication" with the road,as far as accelerating and braking was done through the front tires.
As for the structural part,what I have in mind does not alter the car layout a lot,meaning that the rear T-pod can be retained.
Anyway I am thankful of your opinions,I am studying mechanical engineering,amd have working experience of the motorsport industry for 1/1 cars.I am thinking of creating such a car and I would like some input.If anyone has any photos or additional info on 4WD pan cars of the past(such as Kyosho Plazma or the Hirobo that was mentioned),could he/she be kind enough to post them?Just want to check out some details-I am not thinking of chain-drive.
Thank you for your opinions/experiences and your willingness to share them&good luck with your racing no matter if it's done on carpet or outdoors!
I run 1/10th scale pan car in holland, outdoors, off course. We use unmatched cells, regular hand wound motors with endurance brushes. We always pull 1 to 1.5 second a lap away from the top (like Jilles Groskamp) touring guys. If we need more traction: we apply traction compound and then use tire-warmers. A pro ten kills a 4wd on the straight. And I mean KILL, even with stock electrics! 4wd is just not efficient enough. Even in the corners the tourings are slower. I was training at the ICC race in Apeldoorn late in the evening, and Jilles was on the track too, with his full factoru ride. I'm no pro driver, and my gear was not in top shape, but I could easily keep up. I like sedan racing, because it's very competitive and easy to learn to drive, but a touring isn't as fast as a pan car.
I even think a 4wd pan car would be slower than a 2wd. The extra drive train just scrubs speed.
Why do you think there's no 4wd Formula one car? I like engineering and building my own chassis (I did that for the oncoming season), but keep with 2wd, you'll be quicker!
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 01:34 PM   #6628
Tech Fanatic
 
serpentracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 776
Send a message via AIM to serpentracer1
Default

sean I have a few things you can ck just to make sure.

Front axles make sure they are not bent in anyway

main shock make sure that your not preloading the chassis

axles spacers in rear of car ck and make sure that they are the same 1-1 4-4 2-2 and that the offset are the same up down front to back

also ck that your wires from esc are free from rubbing on anything


just a few things I thought of
__________________
DAVE (THE SNAKE) Rasnake
Original Mimi Wong Clan. M.W.C. For Life
Losi 22/Losi 8ight
Orion R10 Pro VST powered
serpentracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 02:23 PM   #6629
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
Default 1/12 scale 4WD pan car

Holland!Cool!Nice to see some european flavour around!Also very nice to hear of people engineering their own chassis!It's called creativity and looking at photos in today's magazines it seems that less people decide to express their own ideas of what their car should be.Let alone have the guts to take it down for a shakedown or race against other off the shelf cars.As a matter of fact I did also engineer my own Pro-10 5 years ago,with which I won my first Pro-10 race!I am interested in seeing photos of your proto!I can send you photos of mine if you are interested too.
I strongly believe that there is no comparison between a touring and a pan car mainly because:

1)The touring car is weighting more than a pan-car and this weight is divided in:
-rotating masses(TC carries one more diff,4 more BB's at least,driveshafts,output shafts,hexagons,pins etc)
-non rotating masses(double deck with bulkheads/tub chassis-much more weighty than a flat piece of carbon/graphite,which has even smaller dimensions when thinking of a 12th scale car-full independent suspension with big bore shocks,wishbones,hingepins etc)

2)The track of your Pro-10 is bigger than that of the TC by 40 too 50 mm,sth that has a huge effect in weight transfer towards the outer wheel in a turn.As known,the wider the track,the smaller the dynamic weight transfer towards the outer wheel in a turn,so assuming you are driving the car as fast as possible,it's less difficult to reach to the car's cornering performance limits ,so Pro-10 does havecertain advantages in good track conditions.Those characteristics,combined with wider rear tires etc,do certainly make a difference in car performance.

All in all,we could chat for hours trying to explain why a pan-car is faster than a TC in near ideal conditions,but that's not of great importance because there are different classes for them to race.
What we should examine is how a 12th scale 4WD pan car would perform when compared with a conventional one.And solutions such as "put tire additive on the tires" are not the ones that one should come up with when engineering a car that he assumes that will outperform it's equivalents,simply because all those speed tricks are already out there in the awareness of every serious racer to use!
As a matter of fact there is currently no 4WD Formula One Car because any form of 4WD is prohibited in F1.And believe me,with the alternative forms of transmitting motion available today,a 4WD F1 would be very-very effective...
Anyway,kind of you to share your view...Anticipating pictures of your scratch-built pan car...
SkidRow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2004, 04:23 PM   #6630
Tech Addict
 
sean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 702
Default

nashracer and serpentracer1 thanks for the feed back. i will try springs, i did wreck pretty bad when i first drove the car so i may have bent or damaged something slightly that i cant see. oh and good point on the motor and esc wires i had not considered that.


Skidrow- dont get me wrong,i am not putting down your idea. as you have said you study engineering and you clearly know much more than me about the physics and dynamics of cars. i think in the end someone could develop a wonderful 1/12 4wd. and i too am in favor of creativity and new ideas,we dont go anywhere with out them. but the big problem will be the existing battery and motor technology. with nitro i would say no problem. i am also interested to see what you design. please share photos with us.
sean is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:11 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0