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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-07-2004, 04:17 PM   #6601
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Anyone here got a good stock setting to throw into a Pit wizard for 12L3 using an Atom?
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:16 PM   #6602
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CRC CARPET KNIFE -i cant keep my right rear tire on the ground when making right turns. turning left is fine, when turning right the car whips around so fast it will make your head spin. it wasnt spinning out-more like making a tight bat turn. while doing so you can hear the inside rear tire lifting and spinning. i spent the better part of the day at the track with people much more expierienced than me trying to help me out-we tried everything. tweak is fine,brand new wheels,diff,bearings,dampener tubes-i mean everything we could change or adjust we tried. no luck. the only thing i could think of to try(ran out of time) was changing the front springs. i was thinking that if the left front spring went flat it could let the right rear tire lift when turning right.has any one else seen this before? could bad front springs cause this? what about tweak springs?
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:44 PM   #6603
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Sean,
Have you removed the tweak springs, and damper tubes to make sure there wasn't anything binding in the pivot?

If everything is moving freely, try a little more preload on the tweak springs. This will help if keep the tire from hiking up if you put a little more preload on the tweak springs.

As far as turning so tight I would suggest that you don't have the weight balance set right, but you mentioned the tweek was checked. Hmmm.... Have you checked that the front wheels turn the same amount in both directions. Maybe the end points in your radio just need to be adjusted to get even turn.

I hope this will help with the problem.
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:56 PM   #6604
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tried that stuff, checked the radio settings. in fact the car tracks perfectly straight and turns equally in each in each direction untill i apply power. then it will turn impossibly fast when i turn just a little to the right. at the end of the day i even tried tightening way down on the right tweak spring and the right rear would still lift off the ground. this is why i think it might be bad springs

Last edited by sean; 02-07-2004 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 02-07-2004, 09:47 PM   #6605
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Changed the wheel / diff bearings?
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Old 02-08-2004, 04:37 AM   #6606
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sands:-

Quote:
tweak is fine,brand new wheels,diff,bearings,dampener tubes
diff,bearings

so yes, he has!
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Old 02-08-2004, 05:59 AM   #6607
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"Fine until I put power to it" Sounds like Diff to me too.

1. Tweak is perfect ?

2. NO binding in the rear pod ?

3. Diff clean and smooooooth ?

4. Rear wheels spaced exactly the same from the center ?

5. Tires the same diamater ?

6. Front springs the same ?

7. Rear ride height spacers the same on both sides ?

8. Even tire sauce ?

9. Front wheels rubbing at full steering ?

10. Front wheel bearings the same ? (not too tight?)

If not any of them, I give up. It sounds like the steering is coming from the rear, but you never know.

David Root
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Old 02-08-2004, 06:27 AM   #6608
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First things I would check:
1. Tweak is perfect
2. Tires are not big, meaning, they have been trued to racing height
3. Ride height not over 4mm, especially in the rear
4. Tires not hitting body
5. Tires are same size
6. Endpoints are set perfect from your radio. Make sure the car turns a circle the same size both left and right.
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Old 02-08-2004, 07:30 AM   #6609
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Default Re: Sean

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
"Fine until I put power to it" Sounds like Diff to me too.

1. Tweak is perfect ?

2. NO binding in the rear pod ?

3. Diff clean and smooooooth ?

4. Rear wheels spaced exactly the same from the center ?

5. Tires the same diamater ?

6. Front springs the same ?

7. Rear ride height spacers the same on both sides ?

8. Even tire sauce ?

9. Front wheels rubbing at full steering ?

10. Front wheel bearings the same ? (not too tight?)

If not any of them, I give up. It sounds like the steering is coming from the rear, but you never know.

David Root
everything listed above has been checked. the car is brand new-at first i was running a stealth diff same problem-i just instaled the CRC diff which is smooth as silk,so are the brand new bearings.the only thing i havent done is true the tires but thats not the problem.it did the same thing with the kit tires. i put new ones on,then i tried rotating them-same thing. i have to get to the track and try new springs-believe me guys we tried everything. it had some seasoned racers scratching their heads.
if i went full out down the straight and turned left-no problem. do the same thing heading back down the next straight the car would hook right so fast that the inside rear would lift and spin. the more i think about, the more i am convinced that either the right rear tweak spring is shot,the left front or a combination of the two. i just seems odd because its a brand new car.
the other thing that occured to me is that there is talk of inconsistancy in AE's dynamic front end parts.that in combination with a couple of bad wrecks.i dont know. tweak,turning radius,radio settings-it all checks out ok
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Old 02-08-2004, 08:37 AM   #6610
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Default 4WD 1/12 Scale Pan Car

Hi everybody,I am new to rctech.net so I apologize If I have posted my question in the wrong way etc.Just wanted to ask why doesn't anybody make a 4wd 1/12 scale pan car.I've read most of the rules I have found in the Internet from IFMAR or ROAR sources and they don't seem to prohibit 4WD.In the past I was familiar with some Kyosho cars that used 4WD chain drive,so how come no one tries it in belt drive form?
Thank you in advance for your answers
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Old 02-08-2004, 08:50 AM   #6611
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here you go, 1/12 4wd

1/12 Touring Car MR-4TC MiNi (Part#MRTC-MD)

Introducing Yokomo's 1/12 Touring Car MR-4TC MiNi. Yokomo's main goal with the all-new MR-4TC Mini is to put the 'fun' back into R/C.

Essentially a shrunken version(1/12 scale) of the World Championship and Multi-National Championship winning 1/10th scale MR-4TC, the MR-4TC Mini features a shortened carbon graphite chassis, narrowed double wishbone suspension, full ball bearings, and a Mini-Stratus body. Utilizing a 4 cell battery configuration for reduced drive train and motor wear, the MR-4TC Mini also features a race-proven 2 belt drive system with front and rear ball differentials for full-time 4WD grip on all types of surfaces. Take a break from the intense competition of touring car racing and enjoy a fresh does of R/C fun with the new MR-4TC Mini. Select from a wide range of hopups currently available for the MR-4TC to customize your MR-4TC Mini into the ultimate R/C fun machine.

Part# MRTC-MD
Description: 1/12 Touring Car MR-4TC MiNi
List Price : $345.00


Description


FEATURES
Drivetrain: 2-Belt 4WD System
Chassis: Carbon Graphite Flat Chassis
Upper Deck: Carbon Graphite
Suspension: Double-Wishbone Independent
Battery Plate: Carbon Graphite
Hub Carrier (Front): 5 deg Caster
Hub Carrier (Rear): 2 deg Toe-In
Motor Mount: Aluminum
Differential (Front): Ball Differential (Lightweight Molded Outdrives)
Differential (Rear): Ball Differential (Lightweight Molded Outdrives)
Center Drive: Direct (Optional One-Way Available)
Driveshaft (Front): Low-Friction Universal Type
Driveshaft (Rear): Low-Friction Universal Type
Shocks: Molded Composite Oil Filled
Springs: Stainless
Spur Gear: 48 Pitch 78 Tooth
Pinion Gear: 48 Pitch 26 Tooth
Ball Bearings: 14 Precision Ball Bearings
Screws: Hex Allen Head
Tires: Slick Tires
Wheels: Aero-Dish 24mm Wheels
Body: Mini Stratus Body (Decals & Masking Included)

DIMENSIONS
Overall Length: 351mm (w/ Body)
Overall Width: 170mm (w/ Body)
Overall Height: 105mm (w/ Body)
Wheelbase: 208mm (w/ Body)
Internal Drive Ratio: 2.200
Full Weight: Approx. 1255g





SETUP'S
Gear Ratio Chart

RECOMMENDED ITEMS
FOAM TIRES

PARTS LISTS
MRTC-MD Parts List (PDF)

Complete Parts List


yes its a TC but as for pan car,thats what they are all about-2wd.
trying to make them 4wd would only slow them down and they would gain anything from it. 1/12 handle like they are on rails to begin with(well,most of the time ).













Last edited by sean; 02-08-2004 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 02-08-2004, 08:57 AM   #6612
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sorry,still havent figured out how to attach pictures.heres the link.

http://www.yokomousa.com/index3.htm
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Old 02-08-2004, 09:00 AM   #6613
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Long time ago( around '85) Hirobo( they make helihoper and boat now) did has a 4WD belt drive 1/12 pancar,it looked like a bigger miniRS4.
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Old 02-08-2004, 09:22 AM   #6614
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Default 1/12 scale 4WD pan car

Thank you for your replies sean&caveman.I don't really think that a 1/12 scale 4WD car would be necessarily slower.If someone designed it in such an integrated way that it weighted a little more than a conventional car,you would have a car that would not only attain higher cornering speeds,because of the increased velocity that it could carry,but also be more forgiving,especially in outdoor tracks,where track humidity and generally conditions(even the smallest ammount of dust on the surface alters signifficantly the feel of a short-wheelbased-high power to weight ratio car such as a 1/12 scale racer).I even think that the slight increase in weight would also increase the stability of such a sensitive to even the smallest track irregularities car.You might have to deal with slightly greater inertial forces when accelerating,on the other hand you would be able to accelerate harder due to 4WD traction.
I would also like to ask if 4WD is prohibited from 1/12 scale racing by any sanctioned organisation such as IFMAR or ROAR.
Are underbody diffusers and tunnels prohibited?I read a thread some time ago with a guy saying that some organisations have prohibited that.Is that official?In the IFMAR rules I found through Internet(or an abstract of them-I dont really know-I can't find an official site containing ALL the rules-what's up with that?Shouldn't we all be able to have every reg available online?)there doesn't seem to be any limitation.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
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Old 02-08-2004, 09:47 AM   #6615
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you would have to fit it all under an approved cheesewedge body
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