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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-26-2002, 09:24 PM   #646
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Dragon, nah you gotta run it before I go. I may be here until the end of March now, who knows?

Dave, all I ever work on is getting corner speed out of the car. I even run creep in mod so the car doesn't slow down when I let off the throttle. I think with magentas being out now that more guys figured out they could still get the steering with the softer tire and run a stiffer spring to reduce chassis roll for more corner speed. 'Course I run purples everywhere and usually don't end up wanting for more turn in. I think I've only traction rolled on outdoor tracks so I don't know about the chassis flex thing.
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Old 02-26-2002, 10:38 PM   #647
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Socko....well...since we "may" be runnning mod in the near future...do you have a suggestion for me on gearing....you know the track size....i'll be running an 11 double...where would you start??????
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Old 02-26-2002, 10:41 PM   #648
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Kevin- So you put the 6turn in and this Thursday I bet Rob is going to slip a 5turn in when I'm not looking. LOL I don't know about the Jughead thing but all I have to say is... he better not have or he's a dead juggy. LOL
Socko- Stop trying to find another victim to feast on before you move up here. hehehe. I actually have been running magenta's with .20's now. The magenta's seem to really lock down the car even on high bite tracks. Once I found a setup that I like with the roll centers on the new Trinity car so far traction roll even on the one high bite, black groove Grand Rapids track didn't threaten to flip my car. Hope this stays that way although with the sweet Trinity front end raising the roll center to compensate is always an option.
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Old 02-26-2002, 10:51 PM   #649
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I reset my Quantum and I'll have to wait until Thursday to test it out to see if it goes back to making time. Either way since I have 2-4 big to very big races coming up within the next 5 months the new one is going in after I confirm that the original is either making run time or needs to be sent in. I guess for me ESC's having problems is just a part of racing, I've seen it happen so often. When one of the big dogs ESC's go down you almost never hear about it unless you're Kevin and in on all of the inner circles. Hah, got you. LOL, busting a gut LOL. Seriously, so many people are having success with their LRP Quantums and V 7's that I wouldn't worry about it if you guys have or were thinking about getting one. The car is so much easier to control, kind of like telepathy and I noticed increased run time (about 20sec) in 12th mod over my Cyclone. They all make some good stuff so when something goes I try not to sweat it. Best advise for servos, rx's, ESC's, crystals.... have a spare, preferably a duplicate spare so that you can keep the same performance.-Dave
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Old 02-27-2002, 05:30 PM   #650
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Dave.........Inner circle, what tha......just cause I got the TT brand on my back side does not make me part of the inner circle, and that I have to don the cloak and chant a song every morning before racing and refer to the "MAN" the the 3rd person does this make me seem like Im in the inner circle?


Well when I look at it that way I guess it does.
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Old 02-27-2002, 05:33 PM   #651
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OOooooooooohhhh yeah dave speaking of spare equiptment dont get to testy with me or I will recall the receiver that is in your car now..................hehehehe

See ya in a couple weeks Buddy
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Old 02-27-2002, 06:53 PM   #652
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Default anyone intreseted in a 12th scale?

killer 1/12th scale w/electronics

check-out mt ebay action at

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...indexURL=0&rd=1

or enter item #1709399211

it's a Calandra Carpet Knife loaded with spares and electronics CHEAP!!!!!!
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Old 02-28-2002, 12:51 AM   #653
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Please Kevin don't take your toy and go home, please, please, please, pretty please. You need to donate it to my charitable fund called the Arnold Racing Program. That's where you give me all of your good RC stuff for free, see. LOL!!!! Sounds like you're coming to Indy next week or is it the Nat's or both? I may see you on Saturday, Saigi wants to run some 12th mod and another guy than ran stock last Saturday said he would run mod so we may finally have a 12th mod heat, YEAH. Jucha's coming out to run 12th stock too. Tomorrow him and I are going to have a little friendly grudge match for fastest aver lap time for 6.5min since he says he doesn't have the cells to go 8 in 12th mod. He got his team Associated car back and it's all ready to go so Rob will be able to attest to what's up. Hehehehe.
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Old 02-28-2002, 01:04 AM   #654
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LRP Quantum Report- While I haven't raced it again I am pretty confident that I found the problem and credit must go to Foams for diagnosing it first. It looks like it was the RX pack that was the culprit. I decided that I would simply put my new Quantum on the car to get ready for the next few big races starting next week. Well I also decided that the rx pack would go to. When I pulled it out one of the connections pretty much fell off and another one almost came off and the shrink was melted around one of the cells. I have two other packs made and had brand new cells to make another so I charged up one of the made up packs (about 2yrs old) and guess what? While the rx pack in the car was peaking around 9.3-9.7v the old pack only peaked around 8.5v. I then put the new pack together and charged it and it peaked at 8.4v. Not satisfied I decided to do a voltage drop comparison with the new Quantum vs. the one I have been using since Aug of last year. The new one had a voltage drop at the wire ends of 22.8mv and the used one came in at 22.8mv as well. I let it run for a little while to see if the resistance would increase and it didn't it actually dropped a little. Then I plugged back up the new one and it then registered at the same lowered resistiance. Both sounded powerful with the motor hooked up. My conclusion is that the ESC is fine and that since the rx pack was peaking 1v high and had a cell with melted shrink that the rx pack was done. With LRP's on 4cell the voltage is so low compared to six cell that when we get close to running out of energy in the main packs (going soft) then they told me that without the rx pack we pull the main pack down and loose runtime. At least this is what LRP told me yesterday. So Foams you thought it was the rx pack and I guess that it's been peaking for so long at that high voltage that I didn't realize it was on it's last leg. I got 4 months of a lot of running out of it so I guess that's ok. What do you think?
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Old 02-28-2002, 02:48 AM   #655
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What do I get for winning???Hows about your "broken" quantum????? HEHEHHEHEHEHEHEEHEHE anyways, this is the procedure that I always use when my shiite quits working(without obvious failure present) go through and replace(or check with a confirmed good backup)everything in the circuit. I have had servos that appeared to work and they ended up being the culprit in the mix. When you first told me about your 5-cell pack peaking at 9+ volts a flag went off in my head. The NiCD cell is 1.2v X 5 = 6volts once charged my packs haven't reached that point. Maybe I am just off but that is what I figured it was.

On another note I GOT MY CAR TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yup my Speed 8 body also came in as well as my serbo and the motor from my Sponsor. I am all ready to get moving on building the damn thing. Sure does come in a teeny box though. I am just waiting on some parts to come in (T-Bar, green spring, .20 springs) OH YEAH!!!!!!!! and I forgot to ask you before dave, which truer are you using? I had a Hudy Automatic that I sold when I got out of 1/8 and was thinking of getting one of the MaxMod AC ones this time around or maybe just the Hudy one, like the auto, only you have to turn the wheel. Ah who knows cart before the horse kinda crap there I guess, but i am close to needing to get one.
Later Dudes.
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Old 02-28-2002, 02:57 AM   #656
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hi, guys,

i've heard from a friend that there was already a post here that sort of a work around to place a standard size servo in an original servo post of 12L -can't seem to find it. i would appreciate if someone could lead me to it.

thanks...
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Old 02-28-2002, 12:03 PM   #657
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Foams- Awesome that you got your car!!!! Tire Tuer that I use is the Cobra Tire Lathe. I think it is as accurate as the Hudy and with the dragon skin on it is only a little more work to use. It cost about $200 but that price might be high now. I've had mine for all three of the years I've been back and no problems. I keep the belt/bearings oiled and the unit clean. On the center shock spring use the green if the track is bumpy or very low in traction and use a "high" preload (you will see that term in the intructions). Normally Dieter told me that they use the silver spring that comes in the kit and sometimes they will use the blue spring. This car has more ground clearance so you can use smaller tires tool. Oh yeah I already posted something on that...doooh. Rember to do the spacing on the steering block like I said to start out because it also sets roll center, I think you have the post on that one. Also, don't forget to turn the bottom pivot balls upside down when you put them in so that the lip is not touching the spring. You do this only when you are using Associated Springs since they are a little longer than Trinity Springs. The Guy who does custome T-bars (see a page or so ago for his thread) would be a good source to tap in the future for T-bars also.-Dave
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Old 02-28-2002, 12:08 PM   #658
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Kobobek- Not sure but I think Foams and I were discussing this a page or so ago. It was more about how to lay the servo down on the chassis plate for increased steering. I think Foams may have mentioned how you could use a standard servo but you may have to check over the last few pages or so. My advise if you have to use a standard servo is to use the CRC Adjustable Mounts so that you can widen the mounts to fit the larger servo if the stock mounts won't allow the servo to sit between them. Then put the servo in front of the blocks so that you have more room for the larger servo. This will probably mean that you have to mount the ball stud on the back of the servo saver so make sure you get full lock to lock turning radius. Hope this helps.-Dave Arnold
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Old 02-28-2002, 03:33 PM   #659
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Dave,
What is the Dragon Skin??????Never had to use anything like that with my Hudy, let me in of the secret man!!!!!!!I also heard back from Josh Cyrul and he said that the carbon T-Bars would have to be pretty thin in order to get the right feel. So, I guess I will just stick with the Assc. thick ones and use the assc. parts as well. You got a PM coming your way as well regarding some business.
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Old 02-28-2002, 04:23 PM   #660
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Sorry Dave I cant make it to either race. Im going to visit with my dad this weekend in Ohio so I wont be racing. When I come back I cant make it to the Indy race as well....bummed. I cant get time time off for the ROAR carpet nats......I may make the NORRCA ones but not 100% sure yet they are in April and thats a month away yet. But I hope that you show old Jucha whos the man on the track.....hehehe. Also I will be looking to get one of the new trinity 1/12th scalers as soon as I get my TAX refund back....so look out when I do I will be aiming for you.....I will take a page out of Robs book....."My car does not turn well but it Aims pretty good".

See ya in a couple weeks
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