R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-04-2004, 01:35 PM   #6556
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Randman-
The KO seems to be the fastest servo available-so I agree, there's no servo that's "too fast". I have one of the 9650's in one car and its a great servo-it doesn't feel much slower than the KO despite the specs. One thing I did notice is that the Futaba seemed to get some slop in it after about eight races. The 9650 has plastic gears whereas the KO's are metal, so I'm hoping the KO will stay tighter (I've only used it for two races so far).

TFR-
thanks for the specs. What is the difference on the new KO 949ICS? Size or?

O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 01:52 PM   #6557
TFR
Tech Master
 
TFR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,767
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

same spec, size, price. Only difference is the new ICS stuff which you can program your servo. So if you have the PDS-947 now, do not worry about getting the new one...
__________________
Muchmore l AHRP l Xenon l Futaba
TFR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 02:04 PM   #6558
Tech Addict
 
acyrier's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to acyrier
Default KO Servo

Does the KO have the mounting ears so it can be mounted flat like the futaba?
__________________
The products and places I support.
www.michianarc.com www.facebook.com/michianarc - www.russellrc.com
www.teamtekin.com - www.teamcrc.com - www.teamassociated.com
www.fantomracing.com - www.discountrcstore.com
acyrier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 03:01 PM   #6559
Tech Addict
 
sands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 620
Default Re: fast servos

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I'd like to know which servos are though to be "too fast". I've always heard the tales that too fast a servo will make your car twitchy and the factory guys proigram the speed down, etc. I read on this forum that the KO PDS 947 is way too fast the way it comes, but since I like to try everything, I bought one. My car isn't twitchy (or at least more twitchy than it was), its just one of the best servos I've tried. Unless you saw at the wheel down the straight, I don't see why a fast servo is undesireable.
O'D
Matter of personal preference my friend. I run a Multiplex micro digi speed with the following specs

Dim AxBxC (mm) 33x32 x15 = 1.30"x1.26"x.59"
Weight 24g = .85 oz
Torque
@ 4.8v 25 Ncm = 35 oz-in
@ 6v 31 Ncm = 43 oz-in
Speed 60deg
@ 4.8v 0.08
@ 6v 0.06

I don't own the programmer but I did play with EPA, DR and Expo to make it less sensitive to fine inputs on the straights. Every race I make it a bit more responsive as I get used to it. - I never snap the wheels anyway.

My only other recent experience was with an airtronics micro (94145?) and a supper small hitech(?) sub micro. The airtronics analog was good but didn't have the holding power and it got loose after a new races. The small micro had virutally zero resolution - it was more like a three position switch and had a transit time of about .07 secs.

The digital Multiplex seems to have better resolution and holding power. Its smoothness and accuracy seems to make it feel slower.

BTW - it's as tight after ~30 races as when it was new. (It has metal gears)
sands is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 03:40 PM   #6560
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default your choice

Of course its a matter of personal preference. As far as I know, there are no laws governing servo usage. My point was that after being "warned" about using too fast a servo, I found that one of the fastest ones didn't cause me (just a mediocre driver) any trouble. It just made my car faster.
By the specs you posted, the Multiplex is even faster than the KO, I think its the only one I havn't tried. I agree about the 94145, the old standard; a good servo but not in the same league as the KO or Futaba digital.
The Hitec 81 or 85 sub micros work fine in 1/18 cars but I can't imagine they would have enough horsepower for 1/12. A friend of mine was using one and says it works great but he's senile anyway (and its not in his car anymore).
BTW the Hitec 225 servos do work well and are a great value at under $30.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 03:44 PM   #6561
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default its all ears

The KO PDS 947 does have the mounting ears like an Airtrronics 94145 or a Futaba 9650.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 07:44 PM   #6562
Tech Master
 
jc510's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default what do you think?

old school front-end. What's up with it?

Does it work? It sure is easy...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aaaaa pic.jpg (81.9 KB, 179 views)
jc510 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:08 PM   #6563
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: what do you think?

Quote:
Originally posted by jc510
old school front-end. What's up with it?

Does it work? It sure is easy...
wonder where you got that picture from

http://cleveland.nashrcracer.com might be the place
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:28 PM   #6564
Tech Master
 
jc510's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default yes I stole the pic

i have the same car and wanted to try it. It's a four dollar part. Why not. Does it work well enough to continue. Currently I like the other, but the old school has a more stable feel.
jc510 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:30 PM   #6565
Tech Elite
 
Brian McGreevy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,071
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Brian McGreevy Send a message via Yahoo to Brian McGreevy
Default

It's a heck of a lot tougher and doesn't get tweaked in a crash than the new style front end. You also don't have to spend hours building it (to get the caster right) like you would with the new style front end.

The old skool one should give more initial turn in but less exit steering than the new style.
__________________
USVTA Member #211

Support Formula SAE - get kids into engineering!
http://motorsports.illinois.edu/
Brian McGreevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:35 PM   #6566
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridin my Harley
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Adam Hartzell
Default 1/12 oval

Just wondering if anyone has tried a 1/12 oval chassis other than the 12l3o. I used to run a lot of 1/10 and was thinking of getting back into the roundy round sceen again.
Adam Hartzell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:36 PM   #6567
Tech Addict
 
stumper1's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 549
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know what's up with the bumper/washer looking things in the pic? Looks like a cool idea.
stumper1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:40 PM   #6568
Tech Champion
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,952
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Anyone know what's up with the bumper/washer looking things in the pic? Looks like a cool idea.
looks like a chassis protector, so the graphite doesn't split in a wreck
__________________
Official member of The Guild of Calamitous Intent and proud supporter of Conjectural Technologies.
Serpent S411 LE kit #192
RCTech #361
Matt Howard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:44 PM   #6569
Tech Addict
 
stumper1's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 549
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

That's what I figured - looks like a great idea. Anyone know where to get them?
stumper1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2004, 08:46 PM   #6570
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: yes I stole the pic

Quote:
Originally posted by jc510
i have the same car and wanted to try it. It's a four dollar part. Why not. Does it work well enough to continue. Currently I like the other, but the old school has a more stable feel.
I don't care if you stoled it just say who you stoled it from!!!!!!


as for the old school front end yes it is tougher and less likely to get put out of adjustment but getting it set is another thing. you have to play with different shims angled shims and I like to set my car to wear the tires flat. If you run different tracks this is harder to do as you go from one to another. but if your racing at the same track,:wheel: pretty much the same layout you won't have to worry about it getting jacked each time you hit the wall once you have it set. and yes more turn in and less out. I'll stick with m every change dynamic strut front end
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:01 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0