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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-03-2004, 08:05 PM   #6541
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Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Matt--The rx pack is not so much for run time. The rx pack powers the servo and personal transponder allowing every last volt in your 3300s to go to the motor.
but I can argue that the extra weight of the receiver pack is slowing you down because your car is now heavier. I'm not saying that running one is bad just IMHO the benefit is the same whether you run one or not
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:22 PM   #6542
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With a reciever pack my car is still under weight.
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:22 PM   #6543
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reciever packs also keep the servo alot more consistent throughout the run. just my .02
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:41 PM   #6544
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Also, rather than 4.8 volts to the reciever, you get to run 6, faster steering response.
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:30 PM   #6545
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If you dumb in 12th scale and your running a personal transponder the transponder will stop counting (it happened to me this weekend). Do reciever packs power the personal transponder and the servo? Also how long does a reciever pack take to charge at 1 amp? Is that what you guys charge them at? Sounds like an interesting thing, I've heard they will give you about 20 seconds extra run time. That would of been nice in my main because I dumped at around 25 seconds . I also have my old integy charger that could do a reciever pack so I wouldnt have to use up one of my pulsars to charge the reciever pack. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-04-2004, 02:59 AM   #6546
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do Jaco tires have a wider offset to TRC tires?
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Old 02-04-2004, 04:06 AM   #6547
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My 120mAh RC pack powers Multiples servo, PT, and "control" side of the ESC. I get 2 runs between charges. I usually charge at about 0.5A and i think it takes about 15mins to charge - although i may be wrong as i can't remember fully!!!
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:17 AM   #6548
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Originally posted by trackdesigner71
hey, just thought Id ask, do you need to run a receiver pack for stock? if so what kind?
I can understand the need to run one of those things for modified, but what about the rest of us?
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Old 02-04-2004, 08:18 AM   #6549
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Originally posted by Matt Howard
Am I the only one that isn't sold on the need for a receiver pack? If the receiver packs capacity is 150 mah and is good for 3 runs then your saving approximaty 50 mah out of your regular 4 cell pack. Is the extra weight worth the couple seconds of extra runtime?
Matt, I agree with you...I've never seen the need, other than if you dump. I haven't been able to dump a 3300 pack in 8 minutes yet, so I don't see the need. Then again, I don't run big, powerful mods, either, just mid to mild ones.
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Old 02-04-2004, 08:36 AM   #6550
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Originally posted by trackdesigner71
I can understand the need to run one of those things for modified, but what about the rest of us?
I run stock and never had a problem - even with a personal transponder. I've never kept track of the MAh left in the pack but I always run about 2-3 laps after the race and 1-2 before the race and still have strong packs.

I run good, but not great, matched 3300 gps.

The only benefit I can see to stock is to get higher servo voltages, and maybe to improve punch. Although my car has plenty of punch at the end of the race, and can still spin out if I accelerate too hard (running gray rears). Running an LRP esc at the middle punch setting.

Although with the servo voltages - you can have a servo that is too fast.
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Old 02-04-2004, 08:47 AM   #6551
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You dont need an Rx pack for stock or 19T but I would run one with any Mod motor. You may not be noticing it but I bet your servo slows down when you are on power in the last 1/4 of your run.
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:45 AM   #6552
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Originally posted by sands
Although with the servo voltages - you can have a servo that is too fast.
I agree with you for 95% of people, but I love a responsive servo, even if it makes the car twitchy I can drive it. If you dont like a fast servo, just turn down the servo speed on your radio...
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Old 02-04-2004, 11:10 AM   #6553
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Default fast servos

I'd like to know which servos are though to be "too fast". I've always heard the tales that too fast a servo will make your car twitchy and the factory guys proigram the speed down, etc. I read on this forum that the KO PDS 947 is way too fast the way it comes, but since I like to try everything, I bought one. My car isn't twitchy (or at least more twitchy than it was), its just one of the best servos I've tried. Unless you saw at the wheel down the straight, I don't see why a fast servo is undesireable.
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Old 02-04-2004, 11:24 AM   #6554
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I've never found too fast of a servo, I used to use Airtronics which made some really fast servos, but I switched to Futaba because they make the best digital servo's I've found after using all of the digitals. The S9650 has a .11 transit time @ 6v, so it's pretty quick, but I dont know the specs on the Ko servo you're using.
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Old 02-04-2004, 12:21 PM   #6555
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.09 @ 6V for the Ko Propo PDS-947FET, they also have the new PDS-949ICS digital servo now. same spec.
Muchmore l AHRP l Xenon l Futaba
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