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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-03-2004, 12:38 PM   #6511
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCsilly
Adam, MOD ????
I hope you are taking lots of extra parts.........lol good luck in canada , sorry I couldn't go .
Doug do you make a thick chassis for the 12 ? Like the IRS car.

Bob
Bob,
The standard chassis is .090" thick and very stiff. We're also cutting chassis' from 2.5mm CF on a limited basis. The 2.5mm actually measures about .102" and is super stiff. What do you have in mind?

D.P.
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Old 02-03-2004, 12:41 PM   #6512
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DPowell are you going to the roar nats If you are I need to get a couple pairs of the battery holders that you make for the rug rat from ya
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Old 02-03-2004, 12:49 PM   #6513
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
DPowell are you going to the roar nats If you are I need to get a couple pairs of the battery holders that you make for the rug rat from ya
sr1,
I can't guarantee that I'll make the Nats. We can drop some battery locators in the mail to you if you like. If you Paypal, they can ship tomorrow.

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Old 02-03-2004, 12:52 PM   #6514
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Run a 19t and you'll win.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:01 PM   #6515
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Run a 19t and you'll win.

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Old 02-03-2004, 01:10 PM   #6516
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D Powell , YGM
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:49 PM   #6517
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Run a 19t and you'll win.
I should run stock , so when you guys all dump , I'll still be ripping off faster laps and win !!!!!!!!
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:19 PM   #6518
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Default digital servos????

Are digital servos good for 1/12 scale?
I am trying to decide on a new servo and people are telling me to stay away from digital servos, because they flutter around center.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:07 PM   #6519
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
was the original idea of damper tubes to be used on carpet (IRS "rug rat" conv., and the CRC "carpet knife").

is the friction plate setup better for ashphalt?

is there some sort of setup guide to 1/12? like the effects of changing spring and shock oil and adjusting the friction plate?
Originally posted by DPowell
The best set up guide comes from experience. Try different things and record your results. Racing is a great teacher.

D.P.
the damper tubes keep you from being double dampened. You have a shock that dampers front to back and then damper pads that dampen front to back and side to side. with the damper tubes you get your side to side controlled by what lube you put in them and then you get your front to back controlled by the shock. now note this is on a link car like a CRC carpet knife or Speedmerchant Rev3. A tplate car adds more damping to the equation with different thickness tplates. but the less you have controlling the same motion the better ability you have to change one thing and have it NOT effect a different handleing charcteristic. it's like if you change shock oil and springs at the same time. how do you know what result to the car helped or hindered the handleing.

and as for a book I don't know of one for 12th scale but I'll look around. and as for experience and racing being a great teacher. if you only have the funds to barely race I would find it hard to go out and kill a couple sets of tires and everything else you wear out testing. so I ask people that know people that are kind enough to help out a fellow driver learn from what they know. taking into consideration that different tracks and different drivers have setups for a different feel. but telling someone a base line and then saying that if you go to harder front springs you get less steering can't do nothing but HELP our sport.
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:15 PM   #6520
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Default Re: digital servos????

Quote:
Originally posted by r1sportbike
Are digital servos good for 1/12 scale?
I am trying to decide on a new servo and people are telling me to stay away from digital servos, because they flutter around center.

Thanks in advance for your help.
I've never had a problem with my Multiplex. I did notice much more consistent mid corner performance moving from an airtronics analog micro
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:20 PM   #6521
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Quote:
Originally posted by nashrcracer
[B]Originally posted by DPowell
The best set up guide comes from experience. Try different things and record your results. Racing is a great teacher.

D.P.
Yah, what nashrcracer said!

CRC and Associated both have setup information on their web sites. Associated's is at the end of the 12l3 instruction manual.

There are also 1/12 setup information at:

http://members.aol.com/dordba/4conroad.htm

http://www.chemistry.ohio-state.edu/...2l3/index.html
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:27 PM   #6522
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Default digital servos

Digital servos work great for 1/12. I've tried a number of different servos for 1/12 and the best i've found is the KO PDS-947. The Futaba 9650 (?) digital also works well. If someone told you digitals "flutter" they must have had a bad servo. Digitals draw more current than regular mini servos, but it's never caused a problem for me (unless I forget to charge the reciever pack).
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Old 02-03-2004, 06:43 PM   #6523
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RCsilly
Is Larry's the shop on Ford road a few miles east of I275? When do they race? Thinking about dusting off my 12E and going racing but don't know where to run 12th scale any more.
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Old 02-03-2004, 06:53 PM   #6524
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Is everyone making 8 mins fine with a digital servo and 150mah rx pack?
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:11 PM   #6525
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oldrc12e,
on Ford rd E of 275 is Nankin hrdware , no track there, W of 275 is Riders hobby, no track there. If you just want to practice , tuesday night at Rider s Hobby in Livonia ( 5mile and Merriman ) has open practice till 9pm, the track is located next to Krogers. They race on sat , but no 1/12th . Just be warned , there is not much "bite" there because it doesn't get run on enough.
I race and practice at Larrys in Sterling Hts 18 1/2 mile and Mound rd , it is a nice place , big hobby shop , high bite track and a good crowd to race with , we race friday nights start at 7:30 , they have a novice class that runs friday also ,and sunday at 11 am. Get there early as it fills up quick , or they have open practice during the week . call 586 997 4840 for info.
Lansing and Toledo also have nice indoor tracks
See me at the track and I can get you a set up
Bob
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