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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-01-2004, 07:32 PM   #6481
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here are some pictures of the "hammer" conversion

enjoy!
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Old 02-01-2004, 07:39 PM   #6482
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Looks cool but from what I heard it didn't work to well at Cleveland.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:00 AM   #6483
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
just a few questions

ive noticed that the CRC 1/12th cars use alloy bodies for their damper tubes, does the IRS upgrade (for the RC12L3) use alloy damper tubes or are they plastic?

whats the difference between the associated RC12L3 axle, and the IRS axle you can get for the RC12L3?

whats the difference between running small and large diff rings? does one of them have an advantage over the other?
the crc is the only one that I know that uses the aluminum damper tubes. the IRS, Hyperdrive, and a few others use flexi plastic. the only downside to the aluminum is if you do bend them in a real bad crash it's hard to get them right again. the plastic part should slid out of the tube with no lube on it.

as for the 12L3 axle it comes with this really crappy nut hub for the left side that never sits right. the IRS uses a nice clamping hub. The diff only uses two bearings for the diff one on the outside at the right side nut and one on the diff gear it's self. for those that had a old 12LS that makes this a prodiff. but the irs puts another bearing on the left side of the right side or drive side hub. it also allows you to use the d ring diff rings instead of trying to pin the diff.

the large diff rings allow a wider support base for the diff balls.... wider is better. the logical thing would to have been to stay with the big diff rings like the 12LS used. but some duffus decided to make all our lives harder and make the small diff rings. I bought the IRS large diff kit for my CRC Carpet Knife that I use for stock class and haven't rebuild the diff in 3 weekends of racing and it's still smooth. Rebuilt the small diff on my CRC Six Pack that I use for mod class one week ago and I need to rebuild it again after this weekend! your results may vary but I'm buying another one soon.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:07 AM   #6484
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Word of warning abotu the PF Bentley Speed 12...

You WILL have to redo your batteries and electronics. I have a Trinity Reflex 12 (lowest car on earth...actually too low!) and I had to andgle my batt solder tabs in 45deg. When vertical with a wire soldered on it would push the body up. The lower body line was 1/4" above the top of the chassis!

I re-did the batts and lowered my rear body level clip 2 holes lower than for my Trinity/Reference Bentley 8 and it was perfect. The nicest side effect of the body is that I probably no longer need to tape my batts in!
actually I wish I had a shot of Frank Calandra's car from Cleveland on my site with the batteries in it. he had his bars off the side of the batteries. I do have one of the wiring that you might notice that it's running along the outside edge of the car.
http://www.nashrcracer.com/cleveland...astshots10.htm
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:31 AM   #6485
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
you got a PM
Thank you for the help
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Old 02-02-2004, 06:10 AM   #6486
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Looks cool but from what I heard it didn't work to well at Cleveland.
It actually worked incredibly well. Hara was just a few scant seconds out of the A, and that was due to some bad luck. The car appeared to have excellent forward traction and carried very good cornerspeed. It's a very competent car.
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:21 AM   #6487
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was the original idea of damper tubes to be used on carpet (IRS "rug rat" conv., and the CRC "carpet knife").

is the friction plate setup better for ashphalt?

is there some sort of setup guide to 1/12? like the effects of changing spring and shock oil and adjusting the friction plate?
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Old 02-03-2004, 06:49 AM   #6488
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
was the original idea of damper tubes to be used on carpet (IRS "rug rat" conv., and the CRC "carpet knife").

is the friction plate setup better for ashphalt?

is there some sort of setup guide to 1/12? like the effects of changing spring and shock oil and adjusting the friction plate?

The best set up guide comes from experience. Try different things and record your results. Racing is a great teacher.

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Old 02-03-2004, 07:00 AM   #6489
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can you use the standard AE t-plates on your quad12 conversion?
where can i buy the quad 12 conversion from?
has it won any races?
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:14 AM   #6490
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
can you use the standard AE t-plates on your quad12 conversion?
where can i buy the quad 12 conversion from?
has it won any races?

Standard AE T plates work on the Quad12. We also make T plates. The Q12 conversion kit is available directly from Powell Racing Components.
Races won? Yes, the Q12 is competing nationwide, in Canada and currently competing at the Snowbird's.

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Old 02-03-2004, 07:19 AM   #6491
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I will be driving the Quad 12 in mod at the Carpet Nats if anyone needs help with the car just come say hi.
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:25 AM   #6492
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how much will the Quad12 conversion cost? will you ship to Australia?

question for anyone.

IRS make an axle upgrade for the RC12L3. one with "stealth" diff rings and one with large diff rings. what is the difference between them?

do i need to get anymore axle bearings if i upgrade to the IRS axle(the RC12L3 has 2, where as the IRS axle needs 3, is this correct)
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:38 AM   #6493
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
how much will the Quad12 conversion cost? will you ship to Australia?

question for anyone.

IRS make an axle upgrade for the RC12L3. one with "stealth" diff rings and one with large diff rings. what is the difference between them?

do i need to get anymore axle bearings if i upgrade to the IRS axle(the RC12L3 has 2, where as the IRS axle needs 3, is this correct)
Shipping to Australia is not a problem. I'll PM you with kit cost.

The large ring diff is smoother and handles load better and requires an additional bearing for the hub as well as a non flanged bearing for the spur gear.

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Old 02-03-2004, 07:41 AM   #6494
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ive noticed you can get spring steel tbars, are they alot stiffer than the fibreglass ones, or are they to much for ashphalt
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:45 AM   #6495
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I would stick with a thin fiberglass first but give the spring steel a try. It is very soft front to rear so I think that it should be real good.
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