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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-26-2004, 10:31 AM   #6346
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DFTC- you probably already have one, but check out the 150mah receiver cells on hobbytalk.com, 6 of them are perfect for mod racing
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:18 AM   #6347
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ted B.
I have been experimeting with a Yokomo dampner disk car and an IRS car with tubes. I endend up using the IRS chassis the the Yokomo cross brace and upper/lower pod plates and dampner disks. Each Yokomo piece is twice as light as the IRS components. I like the dampner disks better because it centralizes all of the dampening movement to one place, where as the tubes take the movement across the chassis. Also, the tubes could act differently giving you a an inconsistant feel from left to right.

Overall, the car is much better than the tube car and it improved laps about .4 to .5 seconds per laps, which was bout what 19t touric car was turing, I was .2 slower than the fastest 19t lap of the day.

hope this helps.

here is pic of CEFX body for anyone who wants to see it. It turns very well, but I am not completley sold on it yet. (about the HPI decals................its all I had LOL)
I actually prefer tubes. I've found tubes to be infinitely more consistent than discs, and tubes offer you the ability to adjust fore and aft, and lateral dampening independently, something the 360 degree nature of the discs will not allow. anytime you want to increase lateral dampening on a disc car, you also end up increasing the fore and aft dampening. This is unavoidable on a disc car. The tubes being mounted on ball links go through far less travel when compared to the discs and therefore have a negligible effect on fore and aft dampening allowing your tuning to be more precise.
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:36 AM   #6348
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picco

It could be the angle of the photo I suppose, but it looks to me like the tie rods are swept too far forward, as if you need to mount your servo farther forward.

You can also try shorter ballstuds on your saver to get less angle.

The arms dragging on the bumper can't be good.
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:46 AM   #6349
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Hello guys,
I will admit, there is no way I am going to be able to sort through 200+ pages, so I will just see what you can help me with from this point on.

I just bought a Corally package --3 cars (sp12m, and 2 I think sp12g2or 3, one has a graphite chassis) then a bunch of spares. I have never raced 12th, all the cars are used, but I think I am going to go with the sp12m and sell the other 2. I have watched the car race (from the seller) and it was very smooth, so I am hoping it is pretty well set up. I do have some questions:

1. For ozite, what compound tires should I get. He said pink or gold, I don't know if he meant all around or what. Of course, they have to be Corally. I also got a bunch of bare rims, how hard would it be to mount my own?

2. The other 2 cars have a one piece aluminum front end. He had a spare, but mentioned he didn't know why becuase they never broke. He said the graphite plates do break, so I was considering changning the 12m to the one piece front end. Looks pretty easy, what do you think,

3. The syrup appears to have leaked out the pod (was loose), so what should I do for that?

4. I saw a graphite chassis on Stormer hobbies for $40. A good investment?

BTW--Racing 4 cell stock on carpet.
www.mikeshobbyshop.com if you care.

Anything else to get started?
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:46 AM   #6350
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
I actually prefer tubes. I've found tubes to be infinitely more consistent than discs, and tubes offer you the ability to adjust fore and aft, and lateral dampening independently, something the 360 degree nature of the discs will not allow. anytime you want to increase lateral dampening on a disc car, you also end up increasing the fore and aft dampening. This is unavoidable on a disc car. The tubes being mounted on ball links go through far less travel when compared to the discs and therefore have a negligible effect on fore and aft dampening allowing your tuning to be more precise.
For and aft dampening is controlled by the of the strength t-bar and the actual shock
this is just my opinion and I have had better results with the disks, the pod just feel a lot looser and more free on all angels, but you have probably set up your tubes to be just as good.............


Last edited by Ted B.; 01-26-2004 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 01-26-2004, 12:35 PM   #6351
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ted B.
For and aft dampening is controlled by the of the strength t-bar and the actual shock
this is just my opinion and I have had better results with the disks, the pod just feel a lot looser and more free on all angels, but you have probably set up your tubes to be just as good.............
The shock and T-bar do control fore and aft flex, but the fact that the discs have 360 degree contact with the upper pod plate means that you can't isolate the fore and aft dampening from the lateral. It's not a bad design, it just has limitations. Tubes have limitations as well. Of course, I also do not believe in the T-bar either. I've never had a problem getting the rear end to feel free with the tubes, but I do remember having to give the old damper discs far more attention than I do the tubes I run now.
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Old 01-26-2004, 01:25 PM   #6352
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Default Re: Re: pics

Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
The turnbuckles definately look flat on that, is that a Kimbrough servo horn?
Randman,

Yes it is a Kimbrough. We run on asphalt here and now after Adam and a few other people have told me that I should run the angled servo mount versus the flat servo setup. I'm probably going to go back to the angled setup.
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Old 01-26-2004, 01:46 PM   #6353
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Quote:
Originally posted by 24601
Hello guys,
I will admit, there is no way I am going to be able to sort through 200+ pages, so I will just see what you can help me with from this point on.

I just bought a Corally package --3 cars (sp12m, and 2 I think sp12g2or 3, one has a graphite chassis) then a bunch of spares. I have never raced 12th, all the cars are used, but I think I am going to go with the sp12m and sell the other 2. I have watched the car race (from the seller) and it was very smooth, so I am hoping it is pretty well set up. I do have some questions:

1. For ozite, what compound tires should I get. He said pink or gold, I don't know if he meant all around or what. Of course, they have to be Corally. I also got a bunch of bare rims, how hard would it be to mount my own?

2. The other 2 cars have a one piece aluminum front end. He had a spare, but mentioned he didn't know why becuase they never broke. He said the graphite plates do break, so I was considering changning the 12m to the one piece front end. Looks pretty easy, what do you think,

3. The syrup appears to have leaked out the pod (was loose), so what should I do for that?

4. I saw a graphite chassis on Stormer hobbies for $40. A good investment?

BTW--Racing 4 cell stock on carpet.
www.mikeshobbyshop.com if you care.

Anything else to get started?
1. You need Corally silver fronts and gold rears

2. the beam front axle off the G3 car will not fit the 12m, the distance from the front of the chassis to the front axle line is shorter on a 12M, get hold of some of the new alloy front wishbones off Corally, they will not break and they flex less.

3. Take the damper apart and clean out all the old damper goop with motor cleaner (a horrible sticky job!!). refill around the damper disks with Corally red goop and refit the rubber covers.

4. If you have the fibreglass chassis get a graphite one.

Hope that helps
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Old 01-26-2004, 02:16 PM   #6354
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Thanks, that does help. He told me it would fit, but I will look when I get home. I saw those aluminum ones on Stormer too. They seem to be the only place with parts besides Corally USA which has a horrible website!
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Old 01-26-2004, 03:45 PM   #6355
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I run a 12M, it's such an easy car to work on!! Personally i would run blue syrup in the rear damper though, as red always seems to be a little soft. Although red is ok if you put loads of it in. The damper does need filling regularily, even when there is no sign of leaking.
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Old 01-26-2004, 04:08 PM   #6356
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Anybody know (or remember) the part number for 12L servo mounts? Also, whats a good servo saver for 12th?
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Old 01-26-2004, 05:58 PM   #6357
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i am new to 1/12 scale and after driving my carpet knife(it has a 12L3 axle and diff)for two days my diff got weird-it felt lumpy or warped, so i went ahead and changed rings,diff balls and spur and i still had the same problem. from my expierience with 10L cars the "lumpy feeling usualy meant i had bent the threaded end of my axle. i was just about to condemn the axle when i tried changing the bearing in my drive hub-problem solved. is it common to eat up drive hub bearings so quickly with 1/12 cars? i am new and did hit the boards alot. i also thought it odd that only one bearing is used in the AE drive hub. i seem to remember some posts about turning the thrust cone around or using a different one altogether, but i wasnt really paying attention-was that related to this problem?
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:01 PM   #6358
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go out and get a bunch of bearings for the rear ,especially if your prone to hitting alot of stuff.They go bad pretty easily.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:23 PM   #6359
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Assoc 8435{servo mount with screws} KImbrough makes a good one{sero saver}
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:28 PM   #6360
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the more i think about it-i am less suprised at how fast they went. in two practice days i snapped off two kydex bumpers-the track i was running at didnt have anymore and thats when wheels started flying off. the rear drive side wheel(small wonder the bearing went bad) and then the left front wheel broke off i geuss i am lucky thats all i broke!
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